EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

Thank for backing me up on this Dave. This is not the kinda thing you would want to do with a high mileage engine or one making any strange noices. Mine runs flawslessly and only has 30K so I knew this was a good option. I would not say this is building an engine. It is simply relacing the most onbvious week point with forged parts. DB I will call you monday about those pistons. I am curious how they would be different that ones you would use in a typical assembly.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

We had our Std bore pistons sized for doing this exact job on low mileage cars when we had them designed/built. That is the difference.

We have a Stage 5 kit we offer, never really talked about much but it consists of upgraded studs for the engine, head, mains, rods. Doing rod bolts in the car is a real *****.

My brothers car is due to have something done to it, has over 50,000 miles on it. Rather than just putting rod bolts in it he is going to pull the head, drop a set of good used Standard bore JE's we had at the shop and a set of the $200 Eagle rods we were blowing out. Cheap upgrade.

I'd say doing the engine like this (with JE's and Crowers) will make the SHORTBLOCK good for any amount of HP you can put to it and RPM up to about 8500, maybe even 9,000 rpm.

I don't do a build like this for a car that needs to rev to 9,000 or over though. At that point I recommend the engine comes out so it can be done "right" for that kind of use.

EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

$200 eagle rods? That is a sick deal. Def. Calling on Monday. Thanks.

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Not sure if there are any of them left EVOTECH. They are ones that were used that we resized and sold off. Maybe one set.

vwjeff

iTrader: (13)

I ALWAYS brake clean the cylinder walls and then spray the walls w/ WD 40 and wipe clean with blue shop rags then brake clean again, then spray WD 40 on walls and keep on doing this... keep on repeating this process until the blue shop rags have no discoloration on them

David Buschur

iTrader: (53)

Just did my brother Dan's car a few minutes ago. Cylinder walls were super nice in this car when I was done. Used a new set of our standard bore JE's and a set of resized Eagle rods, new rod bearings and gaskets. It's a one day (long day) job.

Excellent way to do an engine in a lower mileage EVO.

RichiW

I did mine with 5000miles on - the bores were spot on, a quick hone and just drop them in, very easy and highly recommended if your a competent mechanic!

evovin

iTrader: (64)

goodluck!

DarksideEng

iTrader: (38)

What all was needed when you did this? Pistons, rods, new bearings, new rings, headgasket? What am I missing? Did you upgrade to ARP rob bolts and head bolts?

1mad evo

how many hours work is this David? 10 hours? do most machine shops/engine builders have good enough honing tools?

1mad evo

also David, do you have some sort of package you sell that includes everything you need for a "drop in" build with the new pistons you do?

Steve@NoLimitmotors

iTrader: (53)

10 hours should cover it. We just did Chris's pistons/rods last night in the car but we pulled the head off 2 days before. Gotta work on it after work hours so prob put in 2-3 hours a night taking our time. Pulling the head is probably about 2 hours, dropping the exhaust, pan, cross memberand turbo setup is about 2 hour. doing the pistons and rods is about 1 hour, re installing the head is about 2 hours. If you want a timing belt and balance shaft belt, thats about another hour. Then reinstalling the pan, exhaust, cross member, radiator, turbo setup figure another 2 hours. So whats that? about 10 hours? add pee breaks, some beer, food, lol.

EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

Toss in about 4 extra hours for us poor slobs who do not have a lift and a nice roomy shop to work in like you guys Wrick sent me this link which was encouraging. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=248904