deadblindclown

connect it to the harness that connects to the harness in the car. lol, sounds confusing.

1tallbrother

if its possible could u send me a detail step by step on how u set up ur harness .im confused with the blue wire on the soundgate adaptor .do i connect it 2 my blue wire on my aftermarket radio harness( jvc kd-dv5100 ) or do i connect it 2 my secondary harness that i connect the factory wire assembly 2?

V8EaterEvo

iTrader: (1)

I just did mine last weekend. You have to hook the blue wire up to the red wire from the new harness they installed for you. This allows the amp to come on. If you hook it up to the other blue wire, nothing will happen.

You will have to cut all the wires that they did for the factor speakers to work. This depends on how they wired it. If they wired it from the amp wires, then just cut. If they re-wired from each speaker, then you will have to get to every speaker and put it back like stock and go from there. If you are confused PM me and I'll get with you over the phone or something.

deadblindclown

dont start mentioning colors, because it could be different sometimes. mine did infact connect to the blue wire on the harness.

V8EaterEvo

iTrader: (1)

Ok, no colors. Connect it to a constent hot wire. Look at the manual when you connnected the harness. Find the power wire, connect it to that one.

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

ok, the red wire you are referrring to is a switched power wire (ACC wire- which is usually red) if you use this wire, any time your car is on the amp will be on. the blue wire is a 12 volt low current switched source wire. it is used ONLY to turn accessories on and off. on your harness coming from the aftermarket HU there is a blue wire marked remote/amp turn on, or someting to that affect. Attach this to the blue wire on the soundgate adapter which sends the turn on signal to your factory amp.

Again, if you don't want your amp to be on when the car is on, even when the HU is off, don't use the red ACC wire. This wire is controlled by turning the ignition switch to or passed the ACC position. EVERY aftermarket head unit with preamp outputs(and almost every one period) has a blue remote turn on wire coming from it's harness.

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

by the way, I don't have the soundgate adapter or my factory amp or HU anymore. I have my amps installed under the drivers and passengers seats and used the factory speaker wire from under the drivers seat for all speakers except my subs. I used the factory power wiring in the dash for my headunit and put my graphic eaualizer in the glove box, with my signal cables running under the carpet from there.

I have said this in another thread and I will say it here. Signal cables are the most important cables in your car audio system for sound clarity and quality. do not cheap out on these cables. I have three signal cables in my car and spent 85$ for them. You WILL notice an immediate increase in sound volume and a decrease in distortion at high volume. Please do yourselves a favor and don't buy the walmart cheapies like I used to. It really is worth the difference. sorry for the rant

6-speed

iTrader: (20)

Just found this thread while searching and I have a quick question.

I have a Pioneer headunit (DEH-P80MP) and the Soundgate adaptor as well.

The HU comes with a set of cables with RCA inputs for the front, rear, and sub.

However, the Soundgate adpator has no specific input for the sub.

Would the factory Infinity sub be able to function using the signals from just the front and rear inputs or would the sub inputs have to be wired bu some other means.

Thank you very much.

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the factory sub will still work. I have an Alpine CDA-9853 with the Soundgate adapter, and my sub works fine. My HU also has RCA outputs for front, rear, and sub. As an extra bonus, you can then add another, separate, amp and sub on that extra set of RCA jacks. That's what I'm thinking about doing, as soon as I fix the rattles my car already has.

bigdoggy_dog

iTrader: (1)

Dynamat that the hell out of that ****. That's what I'm doing. Right now I have the entire trunk and lid done. Next is the doors. Then I'm thinking of doing the floor and roof.

6-speed

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the info.

BABYEVO1

iTrader: (1)

ok so the soundgate will work for any headunit but what about the colorful wires that u usually connect for the speakers from the harness?????

Myszkewicz

iTrader: (2)

The only wires you really need to connect in the harness adapter (for the S&S cars) are the battery +12v, ignition +12v, illumination, and remote turn-on for the amp. The ground goes directly from the radio to ground, and all the different channels are run through the SoundGate adapter.

I should have taken pics of my wiring. I ended up heat-shrinking the unused wires into groups to keep them neat. I soldered the wires I was connecting and heat-shrinked those, too. Turned out nice.

kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

Incorrect. The soundgate (mitsamp) will not work with any radio. You need to have 2 sets of pre outs (fronts & rears). You can get it to work with only one set of preouts but you will loose your balance and fade...

kmcconn9

iTrader: (33)

Although this is true I would still ground the radio to a clean chasis ground. The radio will get ground from the factory brackets (ISO mount) that you put on the new radio, and thru the antenna. Either way will work, but it is best to give the radio a direct ground to the chasis. There are several 10mm bolts behind that radio that will work just fine..