DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

it will help a good deal more if you are turbo, but it's not a power mod as I said before. you can only cool your intake charge so much without slowing it down, that's one reason why bigger intercoolers are necessary for higher boost levels, the more surface area the faster the cooling.

it's also what I consider a finisher mod. unless you have everything imaginable done to the car already you don't want to waste 600 for a part time power increase (remember, it only works when the temps are above x degrees)

if you drag the car, this is an unfair advantage

JohnathanKong

I highly doubt it, but will CryO2 help with spool up time? Like give me extra HP while my turbo spools up. If not, I guess the best way to go is NOS, although I do like the idea that CryO2 helps keep temps down. I might get both if I got enough.

JohnathanKong

I highly doubt it, but will CryO2 help with spool up time? Like give me extra HP while my turbo spools up. If not, I guess the best way to go is NOS, although I do like the idea that CryO2 helps keep temps down. I might get both if I got enough.

PR_Mivec

iTrader: (7)

no

in that case all you would need is a 25 to 30 dry shot if that is what you seek...
anything greater you will need internals....

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

if you are just looking to make more power than maybe you should consider some engine work. while adding nos, meth or even a cryo2 kit will allow you to create more power or run more boost a good head job and porting combined with InM and ExM work (if it needs it) will create as much if not more power than adding nos. and then, when you decide you want more power you just turn up the boost!

adding nos after engine work will allow you to put more power to the ground safely as opposed to limiting how much nos/boost you can throw at it b/c of stock internals. believe it or not it's not all that expensive to source a head and cam (yeah, I didn't mention the cam yet did I?) and have the work done to them for you. the only extra cost would be installation, and it's pricey if you don't do it yourself. for around 1000 you can get the head work and cam work done, and I was quoted 1000 by mitsu to put a completely assembled head on. add the manifold work maybe another 200 or 300, you have a pretty monstrous turbo RA and you still haven't added nos or cryo2

depending on your target HP you may want to look into the AWD conversion

JohnathanKong

yea, I am saving up for a full engine rebuild so I can crank up my boost, but it's quite expensive, so right now, I'm just looking for a cheap and quick way to reduce or eliminate spool time without wasting money on something that I'm not going to use later on. If you guys have any ideas, I'd be glad to hear them. I've looked around and found that the only things that can reduce spool time are things like port polish. I won't do that yet, because that's part of the rebuild. My goal... Save money.

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

meh, sounds like you are about where you should be to me you want the benefits but don't want the cost that about sums up the whole world though doesn't it? I know I don't want the cost

GearDownSon

iTrader: (11)

Woa im a rocket!



Sry.....had to.

caskeybrent

I had a 100 shot dry kit setup on my Taurus SHO and lost my tranny and blew my rings to crap now it blows four quarts every 1000 miles...wet kit it bro

amg_dragon

iTrader: (1)

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/MainLine.htm sells for right at 400 USD
http://www.ebay.com then search. Cheap, effective for short bursts and only a decimal place less than a turbo system even after buying another fuel rail. When I ran mine, I just T-connected it but for a more permanent install I think everyone says to buck up for a pre-tapped fuel rail. Besides, adding fuel isn't that much more involved than 'just' N2O.