Dyno tuned Turbo'd Ralliart
#331
the reason why i want a 9 and not an 8? MIVEC. and they are newer, so less milage/abuse
I am paying 383.53 a month, for 72 months lol... my interest rapes me. lol.. bad credit. buy i built it up big time over the past 3 years, so when i buy my evo my credit will be alot better.
I am paying 383.53 a month, for 72 months lol... my interest rapes me. lol.. bad credit. buy i built it up big time over the past 3 years, so when i buy my evo my credit will be alot better.
#332
EvoM Guru
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I haven't been around for a while but after reading all 12 pages i'm interested in your issue.
I don't think you have a timing problem. I think you have a tuning problem. I think they messed with a few settings they shouldn't have. They should have just been adjusting fuel and/or timing. Nothing else. Since you're having issues that you didn't before and seeing bad whp numbers try loading the old map back in. If that fixes things then it is confirmed that they changed some settings they shouldn't have.
Once that is done then you'll have to hit the dyno up again but only for Fuel/timing adjustments. DO NOT let them change anything else. I've found that people that "know" the Split Sec software often get into it and say... "this shouldn't be set this way or this is supposed to be this!" They make those changes and your car goes wacko. The reason the boxes are made specifically for RRM and you can't buy direct is due to the settings being calibrated for the specific vehicle. Without that knowledge a person can change settings they aren't used to seeing and cause issues.
Just give that a try and see if she runs like before but still rich. That will prove this and then you'll have to address that issue with the tuner. It's hard for timing to get messed up when you did no engine work after the last dyno and didn't have the belt break. I've never heard of the timing belt jumping on these cars... NEVER. So if it didn't break i'd look elsewhere for the problem.
Just my .02
I don't think you have a timing problem. I think you have a tuning problem. I think they messed with a few settings they shouldn't have. They should have just been adjusting fuel and/or timing. Nothing else. Since you're having issues that you didn't before and seeing bad whp numbers try loading the old map back in. If that fixes things then it is confirmed that they changed some settings they shouldn't have.
Once that is done then you'll have to hit the dyno up again but only for Fuel/timing adjustments. DO NOT let them change anything else. I've found that people that "know" the Split Sec software often get into it and say... "this shouldn't be set this way or this is supposed to be this!" They make those changes and your car goes wacko. The reason the boxes are made specifically for RRM and you can't buy direct is due to the settings being calibrated for the specific vehicle. Without that knowledge a person can change settings they aren't used to seeing and cause issues.
Just give that a try and see if she runs like before but still rich. That will prove this and then you'll have to address that issue with the tuner. It's hard for timing to get messed up when you did no engine work after the last dyno and didn't have the belt break. I've never heard of the timing belt jumping on these cars... NEVER. So if it didn't break i'd look elsewhere for the problem.
Just my .02
#333
Evolved Member
iTrader: (11)
I haven't been around for a while but after reading all 12 pages i'm interested in your issue.
I don't think you have a timing problem. I think you have a tuning problem. I think they messed with a few settings they shouldn't have. They should have just been adjusting fuel and/or timing. Nothing else. Since you're having issues that you didn't before and seeing bad whp numbers try loading the old map back in. If that fixes things then it is confirmed that they changed some settings they shouldn't have.
Once that is done then you'll have to hit the dyno up again but only for Fuel/timing adjustments. DO NOT let them change anything else. I've found that people that "know" the Split Sec software often get into it and say... "this shouldn't be set this way or this is supposed to be this!" They make those changes and your car goes wacko. The reason the boxes are made specifically for RRM and you can't buy direct is due to the settings being calibrated for the specific vehicle. Without that knowledge a person can change settings they aren't used to seeing and cause issues.
Just give that a try and see if she runs like before but still rich. That will prove this and then you'll have to address that issue with the tuner. It's hard for timing to get messed up when you did no engine work after the last dyno and didn't have the belt break. I've never heard of the timing belt jumping on these cars... NEVER. So if it didn't break i'd look elsewhere for the problem.
Just my .02
I don't think you have a timing problem. I think you have a tuning problem. I think they messed with a few settings they shouldn't have. They should have just been adjusting fuel and/or timing. Nothing else. Since you're having issues that you didn't before and seeing bad whp numbers try loading the old map back in. If that fixes things then it is confirmed that they changed some settings they shouldn't have.
Once that is done then you'll have to hit the dyno up again but only for Fuel/timing adjustments. DO NOT let them change anything else. I've found that people that "know" the Split Sec software often get into it and say... "this shouldn't be set this way or this is supposed to be this!" They make those changes and your car goes wacko. The reason the boxes are made specifically for RRM and you can't buy direct is due to the settings being calibrated for the specific vehicle. Without that knowledge a person can change settings they aren't used to seeing and cause issues.
Just give that a try and see if she runs like before but still rich. That will prove this and then you'll have to address that issue with the tuner. It's hard for timing to get messed up when you did no engine work after the last dyno and didn't have the belt break. I've never heard of the timing belt jumping on these cars... NEVER. So if it didn't break i'd look elsewhere for the problem.
Just my .02
#335
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You can call my tuner. Ray@revitup his screen name here.
He was changing the fuel, like putting in 9's when it boost high & 6's & 7's around 5psi. I ask & he told me that the #'s was the fuel coming into the 5th inj. 9's is the highest. He has RRM base map on his laptop he can load it up & start tunning. ( he told me he will send it to me when I get a laptop) just incase something happens it there to reboot to regular settings.
He was changing the fuel, like putting in 9's when it boost high & 6's & 7's around 5psi. I ask & he told me that the #'s was the fuel coming into the 5th inj. 9's is the highest. He has RRM base map on his laptop he can load it up & start tunning. ( he told me he will send it to me when I get a laptop) just incase something happens it there to reboot to regular settings.
#336
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (26)
The box does control the additional injector as well as timing. It also controls some other components that are critical for the Ralliart to perform. Try loading the RRM base map and see if your issues go away... (other than being rich)
Then hit up a tuner and just do fuel adjustments... leave the timing alone. If you can't get it to lean out without pinging then you'll have to pull timing. Doing so will give higher TQ and lower HP numbers. It's finding that happy middle ground that makes the tune perfect and makes the car an all around monster all across the curve.
Then hit up a tuner and just do fuel adjustments... leave the timing alone. If you can't get it to lean out without pinging then you'll have to pull timing. Doing so will give higher TQ and lower HP numbers. It's finding that happy middle ground that makes the tune perfect and makes the car an all around monster all across the curve.
#337
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Tunning R4
The values for the injector goes up to 20 so you have tunning space to spare if the injectors supplied are capable. Here's the info on the AIC from the R4 software..Copied from my laptop.
Additional Injector mode
The injector time is displayed two different ways. The first is a spreadsheet at the top of the form that determines how values are modified. The second display method is a bar graph at the bottom of the form. The bar graph shows the injector times for all rpm at a single pressure. The cell that was clicked last on the spreadsheet is the range that is shown on the bar graph. If you click on a bar in the bar graph the cell it represents will be selected on the spreadsheet.
Each point in the spreadsheet represents the injector time at a particular manifold pressure and rpm. The data in a cell is the injector time in milliseconds from 0 to 25.5. The upper left corner shows the injector duty cycle for the selected cell. The color of a cell indicates the duty cycle. If the cell is black the duty cycle is below 85%. If the cell is green then the duty cycle is over 85%. If the cell is red then the duty cycle is over 100%.
Additional Injector mode
The injector time is displayed two different ways. The first is a spreadsheet at the top of the form that determines how values are modified. The second display method is a bar graph at the bottom of the form. The bar graph shows the injector times for all rpm at a single pressure. The cell that was clicked last on the spreadsheet is the range that is shown on the bar graph. If you click on a bar in the bar graph the cell it represents will be selected on the spreadsheet.
Each point in the spreadsheet represents the injector time at a particular manifold pressure and rpm. The data in a cell is the injector time in milliseconds from 0 to 25.5. The upper left corner shows the injector duty cycle for the selected cell. The color of a cell indicates the duty cycle. If the cell is black the duty cycle is below 85%. If the cell is green then the duty cycle is over 85%. If the cell is red then the duty cycle is over 100%.
You can call my tuner. Ray@revitup his screen name here.
He was changing the fuel, like putting in 9's when it boost high & 6's & 7's around 5psi. I ask & he told me that the #'s was the fuel coming into the 5th inj. 9's is the highest. He has RRM base map on his laptop he can load it up & start tunning. ( he told me he will send it to me when I get a laptop) just incase something happens it there to reboot to regular settings.
He was changing the fuel, like putting in 9's when it boost high & 6's & 7's around 5psi. I ask & he told me that the #'s was the fuel coming into the 5th inj. 9's is the highest. He has RRM base map on his laptop he can load it up & start tunning. ( he told me he will send it to me when I get a laptop) just incase something happens it there to reboot to regular settings.
#338
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He was probly doing 9's due to the 1000cc inj.
I saw the Rpm's & another one & every time I step on it it will move to a box. from all the boxes. Not familiar with the software,
This is my best interpritation. It like a football pool. with #'s in top & left side & when you floor it & it boost it will high light boxes as you go till you get to max boost & the rpm's
I saw the Rpm's & another one & every time I step on it it will move to a box. from all the boxes. Not familiar with the software,
This is my best interpritation. It like a football pool. with #'s in top & left side & when you floor it & it boost it will high light boxes as you go till you get to max boost & the rpm's
#339
So i just got back from my mechanics. IT is not a mechanical problem. It is a tuning problem. He said for the guys at turbotrix to A) not be able to figure out HOW to tune it, and B) to try to blame it on mechanical error, and not admit it that they dont know how to do it, is just utter BS. They should be able to tune it. They claim they didnt know how to mess or load up the timing section of the piggyback, and than you guys say its so easy. I guess they just dont know what they are doing with anything other than evo's. If i buy an evo i will go to them, but my ralliart is going elsewhere from now on.
So my next plan is to get ahold of this guy Ray, have him load up the stock settings, and have him tune me up to 11psi.
Not really bashing turbotrix, they are good with evo's. It just really let me down that they kinda made my car looose power 2 times in a row. Went to a strong, tourquey, cam'd 7psi racecar, to a rich, 11psi car that looses power at high rpms... than 2nd time around, they "couldnt find my timing settings" and i lost 30hp again. OH WELL
So Jokiesmurf, screw this internet ****, I'm gonna need Ray's phone number, than i will contact him monday and start all over again. So PM me his number whenever you get the chance. Thanks man.
Anybody wanna buy my car? Take over my 383.53 a month payments and give me 2,500 cash for the extra motor work and we'll call it even.
So my next plan is to get ahold of this guy Ray, have him load up the stock settings, and have him tune me up to 11psi.
Not really bashing turbotrix, they are good with evo's. It just really let me down that they kinda made my car looose power 2 times in a row. Went to a strong, tourquey, cam'd 7psi racecar, to a rich, 11psi car that looses power at high rpms... than 2nd time around, they "couldnt find my timing settings" and i lost 30hp again. OH WELL
So Jokiesmurf, screw this internet ****, I'm gonna need Ray's phone number, than i will contact him monday and start all over again. So PM me his number whenever you get the chance. Thanks man.
Anybody wanna buy my car? Take over my 383.53 a month payments and give me 2,500 cash for the extra motor work and we'll call it even.
Last edited by Ralliart_on_LSD; Feb 9, 2008 at 06:26 PM.
#340
i had that problem when i was looking to get work done on my car, the shops in my area are great with evos but know nothing about RAs, everytime i gave them my info they kept thinking i had an oz and i kept telling them NO its an RA with the 4g69 2.4 sohc. they didnt get it so i scrapped getting major work done on my car.
i wish you would sell your turbo kit b/c thats the only other thing i want to do with my car, but i understand that its all sold together. id hate to see you sell it but you gotta do what you gotta do.
i wish you would sell your turbo kit b/c thats the only other thing i want to do with my car, but i understand that its all sold together. id hate to see you sell it but you gotta do what you gotta do.
#343
Oooo hold out til after april, i just might be down for that, but it seems everytime im ready to make a big purchase for my car something else always has to come uphopefully i could make it work this time. ill pm you later if i can make this happen.
#345
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So i just got back from my mechanics. IT is not a mechanical problem. It is a tuning problem. He said for the guys at turbotrix to A) not be able to figure out HOW to tune it, and B) to try to blame it on mechanical error, and not admit it that they dont know how to do it, is just utter BS. They should be able to tune it. They claim they didnt know how to mess or load up the timing section of the piggyback, and than you guys say its so easy. I guess they just dont know what they are doing with anything other than evo's. If i buy an evo i will go to them, but my ralliart is going elsewhere from now on.
So my next plan is to get ahold of this guy Ray, have him load up the stock settings, and have him tune me up to 11psi.
Not really bashing turbotrix, they are good with evo's. It just really let me down that they kinda made my car looose power 2 times in a row. Went to a strong, tourquey, cam'd 7psi racecar, to a rich, 11psi car that looses power at high rpms... than 2nd time around, they "couldnt find my timing settings" and i lost 30hp again. OH WELL
So Jokiesmurf, screw this internet ****, I'm gonna need Ray's phone number, than i will contact him monday and start all over again. So PM me his number whenever you get the chance. Thanks man.
Anybody wanna buy my car? Take over my 383.53 a month payments and give me 2,500 cash for the extra motor work and we'll call it even.
So my next plan is to get ahold of this guy Ray, have him load up the stock settings, and have him tune me up to 11psi.
Not really bashing turbotrix, they are good with evo's. It just really let me down that they kinda made my car looose power 2 times in a row. Went to a strong, tourquey, cam'd 7psi racecar, to a rich, 11psi car that looses power at high rpms... than 2nd time around, they "couldnt find my timing settings" and i lost 30hp again. OH WELL
So Jokiesmurf, screw this internet ****, I'm gonna need Ray's phone number, than i will contact him monday and start all over again. So PM me his number whenever you get the chance. Thanks man.
Anybody wanna buy my car? Take over my 383.53 a month payments and give me 2,500 cash for the extra motor work and we'll call it even.
Its a split second piggy back .. system. Very very simple to tune, Esp since all you had was a 5th injector. All i told you about your mechanic was that he hooked up your single injector to map B .. when it was supposed to be Map A.. Thats all, the system worked fine. I used map B
With the split second you can only add fuel .. .and add timing.. In your case it was just to add fuel , ( 5th injector ) You cannot put in negative values. The problem i was having was ,, at zero in your fuel map with the 5th injector working,, the car was too rich, with it unplugged it was too lean. You wanted to run 10psi .. I had suggested maybe too much fuel pressure...
I have built a lancer before , turbo ect.. with aem.. Never had a problem car made great power. The split second piggy back .. its not an ideal tool for your app
just my .02 cents
Mark
Turbotrix