Dyno tuned Turbo'd Ralliart
Oct 29, 2007, 08:54 PM
#46
what piggy back do you have? the whole point of the piggyback is to make it easier to tune. not sure about how much flexibility the ralliart ecu has, but you don't need a tactrix cable unless you're tuning the ecu. piggybacks are almost pointless now that you can modify the ecu directly.
you need to talk to RRM about their fuel management, or better yet have the shop talk to rrm, since you don't seem to know about tuning.
it's just as much their fault, as it is yours. they shouldn't assume that you knew what you were doing, or maybe they don't care because you're paying for 2 sessions now instead of one? either way - they should have had their own tactrix cable, or they should have asked you what you were using for engine management.
you need to talk to RRM about their fuel management, or better yet have the shop talk to rrm, since you don't seem to know about tuning.
it's just as much their fault, as it is yours. they shouldn't assume that you knew what you were doing, or maybe they don't care because you're paying for 2 sessions now instead of one? either way - they should have had their own tactrix cable, or they should have asked you what you were using for engine management.
Last edited by EvoBroMA; Oct 29, 2007 at 09:00 PM.
Oct 29, 2007, 11:13 PM
#49
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as the above few post mentioned you need the cable for the piggy not the tactrix cable (ecu flash does not work for us) that connects to the ecu, and if they need to link to the ecu to read than they should have 1 on hand(they sell universals). , i think the shop is at fault for not being prepared...
Oct 29, 2007, 11:15 PM
#50
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they should have at least 1 tactrix cable or the likes if they tune wrx and evos.......
300 is still possible, prob made more pwr running lean..... and impossible to rule out w/o looking at curve, timing a/f
300 is still possible, prob made more pwr running lean..... and impossible to rule out w/o looking at curve, timing a/f
Oct 29, 2007, 11:22 PM
#51
Ok well i just got home.... Long story short, I came unprepared.
Appearently, in order for our piggyback to be tuned on a dyno, you need the software from RRM, or a thing called a tetrix cable that can be found at openecu.org. Can't upload the system without the software. AND you cant plug the piggy directly into the dyno computer w/out the cable. So I couldnt tune it. AT ALL. I could run it, but no tuning. :'( This makes the hole lancer community sad.
Short story...
The 1000cc injector is making me running SUPER RICH with out the tune. I'm making 230WHP and 240TQ with the power falling flat on its face.. The dyno curve is litterally going downward due to the extra fuel. I'm running so rich that the air fuel ratio is off the charts. Not good. So my horse power is drastically be drowned by the 93 octane.
Long story....
I get there a little late because i got lost. Past the very last exit. Oopsie daisy... Get there and they install my manuel boost controller AND MY FUEL INJECTOR right away. I mean good job they installed it ASAP, but my dumbass shouldnt have had it installed it until after I got in on the dyno. So I sit around and wait for them to finish up an STI I think they had.
Well finally it was my turn to get strapped on the dyno. They put me on and the guy comes out and asks if I have the softwear. Appearently I didnt. So he said he coulnt tune it w/out that or the cable I explained above. So we installed the fuel injector, and upped the boost to just under 10psi. But we couldnt tune it. So there is just so much fuel bum-rushing into the engine, the power is just not there.
I will post the dyno up as soon as i can get it uploaded on my computer. But you see the powercurve is strong (really strong) at about 4 grand. But instead of the power curve going upwards (like it should do in any turbo motor) it literally goes downward.
The air fuel ratio is just funny. 10 is the lowest the chart goes (meaning the richest) and im way below 10, im off the charts. OFF THE CHARTS. Thats how rich im running. Everybody at turbotrix says i have PLENTY OF POWER to squeeze out of this lancer. And its obviouse from the dyno to. All I need is the softwear from RRM, or the cable from this website. TurboTrix recommends the cable for my setup and there dyno. So im going to order the cable tomorrow after work. And I'm going to schedrual a dyno appointment AGAIN in about a month or so.
So technically. This is a EXTREMELY RICH ralliart, NOT TUNED, running 9.8psi
top 3 runs...
220 WHP 230 TQ
212 WHP 238 TQ
214 WHP 245 TQ
YES i know... Pretty embarassing. Not what you expected. It's an unfinished product. Most important thing about a race car is its tune. This right here is prime example. Tuning is everything.
ONE MORE MONTH and i promise I will hit the dyno again and hit real numbers. 300 Wheel Horse Power Club, here I come
THE BUTT DYNO:
before the dyno tune i just didnt beat on the car. I was afraid it would lean out. But AFTER the tune. There is no turbo lag at all from the head. From 3K-4K RPMs The car is absolutly nasty. 2nd gear roaches the tires off, and 3rd gear it feels like it wants to slip away. 4K-5K RPM's the car feels like its picking up speed, and gaining horsepower, But just after 5k RPM's you can feel the motor just go SPLAT. Its just a small, steady acceleration, rather than the power i should be feeling. You can feel the car just stop pulling you. And every once in a while, at 4.5K + it will cough and back fire a little bit. While it was on the dyno, it coughed up black smoke
TOO RICH
So go ahead and make fun of me. I drove 2 hours, and couldnt get it dyno TUNED because of a stupid cable. Give me a month and I'll impress you guys. Dont worry.
Now my hand hurts from to much typing.
feedback, questions?
Appearently, in order for our piggyback to be tuned on a dyno, you need the software from RRM, or a thing called a tetrix cable that can be found at openecu.org. Can't upload the system without the software. AND you cant plug the piggy directly into the dyno computer w/out the cable. So I couldnt tune it. AT ALL. I could run it, but no tuning. :'( This makes the hole lancer community sad.
Short story...
The 1000cc injector is making me running SUPER RICH with out the tune. I'm making 230WHP and 240TQ with the power falling flat on its face.. The dyno curve is litterally going downward due to the extra fuel. I'm running so rich that the air fuel ratio is off the charts. Not good. So my horse power is drastically be drowned by the 93 octane.
Long story....
I get there a little late because i got lost. Past the very last exit. Oopsie daisy... Get there and they install my manuel boost controller AND MY FUEL INJECTOR right away. I mean good job they installed it ASAP, but my dumbass shouldnt have had it installed it until after I got in on the dyno. So I sit around and wait for them to finish up an STI I think they had.
Well finally it was my turn to get strapped on the dyno. They put me on and the guy comes out and asks if I have the softwear. Appearently I didnt. So he said he coulnt tune it w/out that or the cable I explained above. So we installed the fuel injector, and upped the boost to just under 10psi. But we couldnt tune it. So there is just so much fuel bum-rushing into the engine, the power is just not there.
I will post the dyno up as soon as i can get it uploaded on my computer. But you see the powercurve is strong (really strong) at about 4 grand. But instead of the power curve going upwards (like it should do in any turbo motor) it literally goes downward.
The air fuel ratio is just funny. 10 is the lowest the chart goes (meaning the richest) and im way below 10, im off the charts. OFF THE CHARTS. Thats how rich im running. Everybody at turbotrix says i have PLENTY OF POWER to squeeze out of this lancer. And its obviouse from the dyno to. All I need is the softwear from RRM, or the cable from this website. TurboTrix recommends the cable for my setup and there dyno. So im going to order the cable tomorrow after work. And I'm going to schedrual a dyno appointment AGAIN in about a month or so.
So technically. This is a EXTREMELY RICH ralliart, NOT TUNED, running 9.8psi
top 3 runs...
220 WHP 230 TQ
212 WHP 238 TQ
214 WHP 245 TQ
YES i know... Pretty embarassing. Not what you expected. It's an unfinished product. Most important thing about a race car is its tune. This right here is prime example. Tuning is everything.
ONE MORE MONTH and i promise I will hit the dyno again and hit real numbers. 300 Wheel Horse Power Club, here I come
THE BUTT DYNO:
before the dyno tune i just didnt beat on the car. I was afraid it would lean out. But AFTER the tune. There is no turbo lag at all from the head. From 3K-4K RPMs The car is absolutly nasty. 2nd gear roaches the tires off, and 3rd gear it feels like it wants to slip away. 4K-5K RPM's the car feels like its picking up speed, and gaining horsepower, But just after 5k RPM's you can feel the motor just go SPLAT. Its just a small, steady acceleration, rather than the power i should be feeling. You can feel the car just stop pulling you. And every once in a while, at 4.5K + it will cough and back fire a little bit. While it was on the dyno, it coughed up black smoke
TOO RICH
So go ahead and make fun of me. I drove 2 hours, and couldnt get it dyno TUNED because of a stupid cable. Give me a month and I'll impress you guys. Dont worry.
Now my hand hurts from to much typing.
feedback, questions?
Oct 30, 2007, 12:38 AM
#53
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If its a split sec unit you need the R4 software RRM sells and a usb serial adapter cable, +'s the DB9 serial cable. Try to get it hooked once you get the software familiarize with it and then go to a dyno. With the starting point you mentioned 220whp A/F in 10 at with proper tunning at 9-10 psi you may get with your setup in that dyno 240-265whp.
Oct 30, 2007, 12:41 AM
#54
If its a split sec unit you need the R4 software RRM sells and a usb serial adapter cable, +'s the DB9 serial cable. Try to get it hooked once you get the software familiarize with it and then go to a dyno. With the starting point you mentioned 220whp A/F in 10 at with proper tunning at 9-10 psi you may get with your setup in that dyno 240-265whp.
Im gunna keep that in mind when i go.
Oct 30, 2007, 02:18 AM
#57
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why are you running 1000cc injectors? talk about overkill... you should be running like 500-600cc max..? that is good for 300-350whp depending on octane gas u run.
Oct 30, 2007, 03:44 AM
#58
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212 WHP 238 TQ
214 WHP 245 TQ
ROL. TQ,TQ,TQ numbers very nice for not being tuned like i said B4 our engine is def a TQ monster. See Joe remember what i told u when we talked about u getting tuned. They should of def had the cables they needed knowing that u were gonna go there yesterday. its not ur fault cause they were the ones who were unprepared. not u. And i kind of agree with Evorecordsetter the injectors that u have i agree that is really overkill the Evo injectors which are 500 something cc's are good enough to run the numbers ur trying to get to but all and all its all good. u prob would have gotten better numbers with the injectors u had on B4. dont be
its all good bro we will justhave to wait for next monh to see the real deal with the 4G69T
Oct 30, 2007, 04:44 AM
#59
i dont have 4 1000 cc injectors... i have the 4 stock ones. And my fifth one is the 1000 cc. Just to compensate for the 10psi.
I just woke up for work. Im still sad. I'll post up and talk bout it more when i come home from work.
My goal when i go back is 280whp and 300 tq. I think 300 might be pushing it. 260 seems a little low. Especial for the mods i have.
Butt dyno says it all tho. after i posted my original post, i went to taco bell real late last night (i love taquito's) and the ride up to tacobell was fun and fast
I just woke up for work. Im still sad. I'll post up and talk bout it more when i come home from work.
My goal when i go back is 280whp and 300 tq. I think 300 might be pushing it. 260 seems a little low. Especial for the mods i have.
Butt dyno says it all tho. after i posted my original post, i went to taco bell real late last night (i love taquito's) and the ride up to tacobell was fun and fast
Oct 30, 2007, 04:48 AM
#60
Oh and another thing... I really dont think I want it tuned for "peak horsepower" I dont want it to climb up and have 240HP at 5000 rpm and 280 HP at 6300 prm. I want to have a real nice, useable power curve. Now i have the 240 tq at 3000 rpm, and the 220 WHP at 4000rpm. Good usuable power. I want to hold that "early power" up to redline. I dont want a straight line up, i want a decent, flat line of power . I want the power to kick in early and hold itself to redline. For me to have a good power curve, i need to sacrifice top end. Thats nothing thing to keep in mind.
But still, the results i got now are just sad lol. Damn fuel.
. I want the power to kick in early and hold itself to redline. For me to have a good power curve, i need to sacrifice top end. Thats nothing thing to keep in mind.But still, the results i got now are just sad lol. Damn fuel.