Trying to finish rrm turbo
#47
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Location: Tucson, AZ
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will do, but for right now my priorities are:
1. Get home
2. fix fuel pressure problem
3. get FTC piggy working on computer
4. Then I'll log the details
1. Get home
2. fix fuel pressure problem
3. get FTC piggy working on computer
4. Then I'll log the details
#53
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Niceeeeee looking at ur car makes me mad a lil tho because iam now 100% sure that RRM sent me a kit for a ralliart when i have a ES by mistake and is why i have ran into so many problems with my kit butt its running pretty good now not 100% but good how is urs runnin? i hope my piggy is not for ralli or i might b screwed in long run lolol and also VIDS!!!!! lolol i wanna hear ur BOV compared to mine
#56
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What do you mean? none of the piping fit when i first got my kit i had to get them to send me longer coupler to make one pipe fit n that caused all my other piping to be off and still is not perfect fit and my intake piping also was wrong one sent they had had to resend me brand new pipe for that and now my BOV sits very weird n the recirculation on it is kinda weird thats why i wanted to hear his BOV to see if thats causing me any problems. Not to mention a whole other small problems i have ran into but slowly fixed also gonna get a tune because my car runs wayyyy to rich hopefully not because of wrong piggy though i doubt that lol hopefully
#57
looks great....is the fuel pump working pretty well...i have a walbro 255 and it makes a whistleling sound when the car is on and as i kept driving for a long time the sound just increases so i know if it is working properly....also my pressure right now at idle is between 30 and 40 psi.....i don't know how the RRM system works but verify if the stock regulator is affecting your fuel flow...i had to remove mine because it wasn't letting the extra fuel come out from the tank so check on that...if you have the stock try changing into a 1 to 1 aeromotive or bosh FR and do the fuel return system....i highly recommend it...and just weld the stock one in order that it can't work....
#59
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lancerjdm
i hear the same thing, i think its just cuz the pump is working that much harder. at idle it is relatively ok, but as soon as i even kick the RPMs up to 1.2k or higher it gets really loud.
So pretty much, the entire kit is working out well. i was stalling the car at high speeds but then i figured out it was just an allen bolt coming coming loose every 5 mins and so an IC pipe attacted between the the IC and intake side of the turbo kept falling really loose and screwing with the MAF readings and such. Thread lock helped with that problem
Also, i have to use the R4 program and reset my ECU every time i turn on the car so that the revs stay above 750 no matter what. if i dont, it still tends to stall.
other than that my car is great, i still have yet to put on the ACT clutch and RRMs flywheel, as well as a few small tweeks like replacing the belt (there must have been some excessive where from when i put on the lightweight crank pulley) and there's a clunking sound every time i turn the steering wheel a full revolution or more.
P.S. buy this kit! It was a hassle but it's ALL worth it
i hear the same thing, i think its just cuz the pump is working that much harder. at idle it is relatively ok, but as soon as i even kick the RPMs up to 1.2k or higher it gets really loud.
So pretty much, the entire kit is working out well. i was stalling the car at high speeds but then i figured out it was just an allen bolt coming coming loose every 5 mins and so an IC pipe attacted between the the IC and intake side of the turbo kept falling really loose and screwing with the MAF readings and such. Thread lock helped with that problem
Also, i have to use the R4 program and reset my ECU every time i turn on the car so that the revs stay above 750 no matter what. if i dont, it still tends to stall.
other than that my car is great, i still have yet to put on the ACT clutch and RRMs flywheel, as well as a few small tweeks like replacing the belt (there must have been some excessive where from when i put on the lightweight crank pulley) and there's a clunking sound every time i turn the steering wheel a full revolution or more.
P.S. buy this kit! It was a hassle but it's ALL worth it
#60
honestly i would remove the crank pulley...it is good to rev faster and spool up the turbo but it removes torque which is crucial at high speeds for turbo cars...second these pulleys tend to destroy the oil pump...i had the pulley about 10 K miles and then remove it...it drop about 10 HP but increase 14 LB TQ...the acceleration drop a little bit but at high speeds it was way better... PLEASE GUYS if i'm wrong let me know but all i've said i have read and was told from turbo experts....REMEMBER RELIABILITY is the key of success...success equal good power and less money spent repairing...
relating to the fuel pump the sound is completely normal...if it stops whistleling then be worried...hope you are enjoying it...get some dyno numbers...hopefully next december i'm moving to the US and taking my RA with me...hopefully everything works fine for me...im wan't to meet all RAs in US...
relating to the fuel pump the sound is completely normal...if it stops whistleling then be worried...hope you are enjoying it...get some dyno numbers...hopefully next december i'm moving to the US and taking my RA with me...hopefully everything works fine for me...im wan't to meet all RAs in US...
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hoola47
Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech
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16g, 2010, aluminum, comusa, director, endere, evolutionm, flywheel, installation, lancer, mitsubishi, rrm, specs, torque, turbo