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While searching for all the grounds (a list would be helpful), I am now suspecting the headlight switch / lever. When I unplug the connector from the bottom of the assembly, the battery is not dead in the morning. For now, I'm driving around without the bottom of the steering column cover so that I can unplug the said connector when I leave the car. This is a lot better than disconnecting the battery cable every time and resetting my ecu over and over!
Last edited by truthdweller; Oct 10, 2015 at 06:57 AM.
meter for shorts...Garry there are too many grounds to list...and their locations are not documented well even in the wiring diagrams...what connector is that? I can take a look into it for you...
meter for shorts...Garry there are too many grounds to list...and their locations are not documented well even in the wiring diagrams...what connector is that? I can take a look into it for you...
I'm not even sure this is the problem, but with it disconnected, it's not draining my battery. It's at the bottom of the left headlight/turn signal lever. It also turns off power to the other turn signal and the wipers.
I'm not even sure this is the problem, but with it disconnected, it's not draining my battery. It's at the bottom of the left headlight/turn signal lever. It also turns off power to the other turn signal and the wipers.
i'll look into it..is that a 10 pin connector?
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Oct 11, 2015 at 12:07 AM.
do you have a multimeter? check resistance to ground on every pin...pin 1 should have a red-black wire...
Garrett,
For myself and any other newbie following this thread, describe the test, "resistance to ground on every pin" with this multimeter pictured here. Why did you specify where pin # 1 is located?
Last edited by truthdweller; Oct 14, 2015 at 06:06 PM.
I did a parasitic draw test on the battery and I'm drawing about 5.0 amps. When I completed the circuit with the multi-meter's red and black probes, I could hear, what sounded like, the A/C compressor clutch engaging. So, instead of eliminating the circuits, by pulling the fuses, one by one, I went straight for the AC Compressor Clutch Relay and pulled it...voila, no more drain!
But where do I go from here? What do I inspect/test next?
Turn the multimeter knob to the ohm sign. It's the one that looks like omega.
Stick the red lead into one of the pins of the harness.
Touch the black lead to ground or earth which is any place on the car body, a door hinge, a mounting bolt on the seat, one of the brackets holding the dashboard etc.
Verify that both leads are making proper contact, does the needle move alot ? Then you have a circuit, confirm ideally via a circuit diagram that this is acceptable..
Does the needle remain still ?
Then confirm, ideally via a circuit diagram if an open circuit is acceptable.
Check the AC switch, is it always closed ?
Luckily now you have a multimeter so it's cake.
If the switch is not the problem, check the same circuit for a short.
[QUOTE=truthdweller;11518895]$68 for this thing?!!! Ain't no way I'm spending that much for 1" of brass and 1" of plastic!
AEM wants $50 to diagnose + $15 for shipping, plus the price to repair whatever needs to be fixed or replaced. If the sensor is bad, that's $68 + 50 + 15 = $133. A new gauge is $160!
Last edited by truthdweller; Jan 4, 2016 at 11:44 AM.
I did a parasitic draw test on the battery and I'm drawing about 5.0 amps. When I completed the circuit with the multi-meter's red and black probes, I could hear, what sounded like, the A/C compressor clutch engaging. So, instead of eliminating the circuits, by pulling the fuses, one by one, I went straight for the AC Compressor Clutch Relay and pulled it...voila, no more drain!
But where do I go from here? What do I inspect/test next?
This connector terminates power to the AC clutch. I disconnected it and this eliminated the 5 amp amp draw... but why is there power to it when everything is off?
Oct 8, 2015 | 06:51 PM
