2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build
#1891
I had something happen for the first time today...
While boosting WOT on the highway, going about 65 mph, the transmission appeared to slip out of gear and I watched the tach scream to 8000 rpms! I released the throttle immediately and continued uneventfully. I HAVE been noticing some clunking into gear on the surface streets with my normal manual shifting. I have not checked the AT fluid but changed it back in August and have no leaks.
While boosting WOT on the highway, going about 65 mph, the transmission appeared to slip out of gear and I watched the tach scream to 8000 rpms! I released the throttle immediately and continued uneventfully. I HAVE been noticing some clunking into gear on the surface streets with my normal manual shifting. I have not checked the AT fluid but changed it back in August and have no leaks.
#1893
Could be that the clutches in the transmission have seen better days. If that's the case, an overhaul kit would address it, but as you are boosted and a track demon, you may want to investigate something more robust than OEM.
#1894
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
"As an estimate:
Labor to remove and replace transmission is $770
Parts and Labor to remove and replace valve body, install differential, including setting bearing preload, reseal case half, change pump seals, filter and axle seals $467
Valve body modification $589
11 quarts synthetic atf $119.79
Total 1945.79
If you would like to do a performance converter, while the transmission is out of the vehicle is a good time to do it so that you wouldn't be paying any additional labor- that is $469."
Garrett blows a gasket when he imagines spending this kind of money, lol, but I'm still considering it.
#1895
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
More on the "valve body modification" mentioned above. The costs mentioned here are included in the quote above:
"We can modify the valve body with will help the shift quality to an extent and improve durability.
It is $589 and it will take me about 2 -3 days. I will also need the
accumulator pistons from under the valve body individually bagged and
packaged with the spring(s) that go under them.
Everything may fall out during removal so please be careful with the pistons
and keeping the correct springs with them and noting their position."
"We can modify the valve body with will help the shift quality to an extent and improve durability.
It is $589 and it will take me about 2 -3 days. I will also need the
accumulator pistons from under the valve body individually bagged and
packaged with the spring(s) that go under them.
Everything may fall out during removal so please be careful with the pistons
and keeping the correct springs with them and noting their position."
#1896
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
So, this was a solution: extending the lever about a quarter of an inch and moving the nipple to the other side:
Last edited by truthdweller; Nov 14, 2016 at 07:08 AM.
#1897
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
So, this was a solution: extending the lever about a quarter of an inch and moving the nipple to the other side.
Last edited by truthdweller; Nov 16, 2016 at 04:38 PM.
#1898
How is the clearance on the exhaust side? It's crafty, I like it.
#1899
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
I tried to get a decent picture of it for you, but couldn't...too tight. The actuator attachment nipple and the actuator arm itself clears the turbine housing by at least a half inch or more...plenty of room.
Back in 2013, when the Profab shop was finishing up robbing me of my money, I recall making this very suggestion of reorienting the nipple to the other side, they weren't receptive to it though...imagine that. The only difference was having to extend it so that it would clear the turbine housing...your very concern Garrett.
Going to pull the control arms off again to hopefully press those Whiteline PU bushings in. Going to mark the concentric washer bolts this time so I don't have to realign...stay tuned!
Back in 2013, when the Profab shop was finishing up robbing me of my money, I recall making this very suggestion of reorienting the nipple to the other side, they weren't receptive to it though...imagine that. The only difference was having to extend it so that it would clear the turbine housing...your very concern Garrett.
Going to pull the control arms off again to hopefully press those Whiteline PU bushings in. Going to mark the concentric washer bolts this time so I don't have to realign...stay tuned!
Last edited by truthdweller; Nov 16, 2016 at 04:39 PM.
#1900
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Haven't been too motivated to get this done, although, I am back with a laptop...$35 for from the Letgo app...local pickup! I'm relearning how to navigate through Fastworks and how to datalog again so I can address this tuning problem I'm having.
#1901
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Datalogged some runs and I'm maxing out my MAF @ 10-11 psi. Speed density in the near future? Possibly!
#1903
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Yes...my question above was meant to be, "tongue in cheek" for Hackish is currently writing speed density patches for my car. I was going to make it a surprise. Although, Hackish says, "I worked on yours a bit today. It will be possible to put the speed density patches in...it's going to be a bit of a PITA to tune."
#1904
It shouldnt be bad. We actually recommend everyone who runs a Haltech tune with speed density. You just need IAT and MAP sensors. Most tuners will be able to tune this way.
Just looked back and saw that you said you are maxing out the MAF not MAP. How so? You should have a voltage calibration that lets you correct for that. Im sure Crans had to do the same thing at some point.
Just looked back and saw that you said you are maxing out the MAF not MAP. How so? You should have a voltage calibration that lets you correct for that. Im sure Crans had to do the same thing at some point.
#1905
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Just looked back and saw that you said you are maxing out the MAF not MAP. How so? You should have a voltage calibration that lets you correct for that. Im sure Crans had to do the same thing at some point.
I've Googled the same and read of one tuner who put in a 3/4" ID hose from the MAF airbox to the UICP just before the throttle body. This way, when WOT, some of the air being sucked into the intake pipe, before passing over the MAF sensor, would be diverted into the throttle body instead of over the MAF sensor. The same amount of air is being drawn into the entire system, but not enough to max out the MAF sensor voltage. He datalogged before and after but I'd have to read the article again to tell you the specifics. The bottom line was that it worked!