The leak would cause it to go lean that's a given. I would fix th known exhaust leak first then go from there. And your currently on hacks NA tune or factory?

 

Factory...Hack's NA reflash is on it's way as we speak. When it arrives I'll drop the 550cc injectors, switch the MAP, and run the new ECU.

 

Have you talked with Hackish about putting the 550s in with the NA flash? I just don't see the need or use at that time.

 

You need gas!! I've never seen the needle point that low

 

i've sucked bottom before, my empty light came on and went off 3 times, then i did another 20-30 km's...lol

 

Heck, I run it to the yellow EVERY tank, for I know what my mpg is and get to the gas station we with plenty room to spare.

The injectors and MAP are part of the turbo fuel management requirements and were recommended by hackish to divide the build into two steps. Hackish would be able to tell you why he recommended this better than I can, and honestly, I don't remember. The NA flash will have the injector and MAP parameters built into it and wont enhance anything but just be supporting the NA requirements. When I go turbo these steps will be already in place.

 

So do you know if he is doing anything special to your flash or if anyone with the flash can do this to "get ahead" ? I'm referring to installing 550cc or 440cc injectors.

 

hackish can scale any injectors for any application...you can run 1000cc injectors on an N/A motor if you can tell the ECU to spray them for a short enough period of time...

 

Alright that's good to know, the wide band is on my wish list so I can finally get a custom tune once my clutch is in.

 

Again, I don't want to speak for hackish, but I was told by hack that you can run 1000cc injectors as long as the ECU is telling the injectors to deliver the appropriate amount amount of fuel. Let me try to get him in the forum to explain the details.

I purchased the NA/Turbo reflash because I wanted to play with something small while I waited for something BIG. And again, there's an programming advantage to doing this, as opposed to purchasing them separately, but I didn't save our conversations, so I don't recall what they are. The NA reflash isn't changed in that it comes with a ~10whp gain, removes the speed limiter, and raises the rev limiter about 1000 rpms. The Turbo reflash dyno speaks for itself :

 

Maybe it was you that gave me the "1000cc injector" info, lol!


Oh, btw, I fixed the exhaust leak and the AFR values fluctuate between 14.6 and 15.1...looks good for now with the minor mods I've got. Now I've got to route the AFR sensor wire to the outside...another day(s) project!

 

what's your wide open throttle AFR at like 6000 rpm?

and i just used 1000cc as an example, cause it's a big ****ing injector for one cylinder , hackish likely used a similar example...

 

1. AFR = 14.2 @ WOT (6000 rpm)

2. AFR = 14.2 @ WOT (6000 rpm)


Problem: my gauge is very fickle at times and won't hold a steady reading, frequently maxing out, and freezing with the "- - -" display.

 

the "---" is a lean condition...the range of the gauge is 10-18. at 10 or below, it will display 10, so 10 could mean 10, or it could mean 9.3, lol...beyond 18 it will display 3 dashes...so when you let off the accelerator, the throttle plate closes, engine goes into vacuum, and the ECU cuts fuel, because if the wheels and transmission are turning the engine, there's no need for fuel to keep the motor from stalling...no fuel means the motor is just sucking in air, compressing it, and then pushing it out the exhaust without fuel or combustion, so without fuel you would be technically running super lean, but the ECU knows it's not injecting fuel so you won't get a lean code...

14.2 is actually really lean for WOT, you sure you fixed the exhaust leak?

 

So, this sounds normal...how do you reset the gauge besides turning the power off and on?

As far as I can feel, I fixed it. I used some high temp gasket silicone to seal an obvious pinhole leak...it's gone now.