2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build
#303
Go to permatexs website and see what the recommended use for it is.. Internal combustion temperature is about 3600-4800f exhaust gas temperature I would think would be around 1000f
#304
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Not sure where you're going with this...we're no where near the cylinders...this is outside the engine at the exhaust pipes, distal to the downpipe. I just took external temp readings at the point where i used the silicone after driving 120 km/hr for about five minutes and I got 350°F, which is well within the limit for this material.
#305
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
I believe I found the culprit to the fouling AFR gauge...the fumes from the red sealant, whereas the "blue" silicone is "low odor and will not foul O2 sensors."
#306
I thought they are supposed to be mounted before the cat 18 inches away from the ports.. Any how how much did you pick up the wideband for? I think the white faces look good it goes with the white face on the dash.. I have the evo 8 dash so I think the black faces would like nice to match.. It's good to see this coming along keep up the hard work... How much is hackishs manifold?
#307
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
The wideband was $100, the pod was $15. Black bezel is coming.
Edit: "I do apologize for the delay. I will be mailing the bezel tomorrow morning" - Maria Garcia, AEM
Edit: "I do apologize for the delay. I will be mailing the bezel tomorrow morning" - Maria Garcia, AEM
Last edited by truthdweller; Dec 3, 2012 at 01:44 PM.
#308
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Yup, "distal to the downpipe," proximal to the cat. Sorry, a bit of medical terminology coming out in me...
Update: 362°F at the flex/cat pipe junction
Last edited by truthdweller; Dec 3, 2012 at 01:52 PM.
#309
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Okay, confession: I tried the AEM "no-weld" O2 bung and that's what I was having all the problems with, ie; fitment, leaks, silicone, sensor failures, etc. Now, I wouldn't completely write them off, for if my pipe was round the clamp would have worked, even the mechanic that drilled the hole for me, was convinced, but that wasn't the case. I did it right this time though, and had the shop weld a bung for twenty bucks. Had I known this, I obviously wouldn't have spent $40 and bothered with the no-weld, but the first quote I got, from the same shop, was $100 for a ten minute job!
I routed the AFR sensor wire behind this side panel, and under the carpet...Note: DON'T pull those plastic plugs on the floor (I tried)! You don't need to. Just remove that panel and that left foot rest, then pull that corner of the carpet assembly up. There are rubber drain plugs which are on each side of the car under the driver and passenger floor boards, access and remove them from under the car. Route the wire through one of these holes. I choose the driver side:
I routed the AFR sensor wire behind this side panel, and under the carpet...Note: DON'T pull those plastic plugs on the floor (I tried)! You don't need to. Just remove that panel and that left foot rest, then pull that corner of the carpet assembly up. There are rubber drain plugs which are on each side of the car under the driver and passenger floor boards, access and remove them from under the car. Route the wire through one of these holes. I choose the driver side:
Last edited by truthdweller; Dec 6, 2012 at 06:46 PM.
#310
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
After I routed the wire up and over the suspension to the sensor, I tie wrapped it, then fed the remaining slack back into the car, bundled it and secured it under the dash. I then slit the rubber drain plug almost in half, stopping at the center, slid it over the wire, pushed it back into the hole, then sealed it with silicone:
#311
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Garrett, my AFR @ 6000 rpm WOT in second gear was 11.9 - 12.2, 12.2 in third, but I can't tell you my speed...
Gauge/sensor appears to be working like it should..thanks.
Gauge/sensor appears to be working like it should..thanks.
Last edited by truthdweller; Dec 4, 2012 at 11:10 AM.
#312
i thought i told you to weld that bugger in ages ago!!!
and i can guess your speed at 6000rpm in 3rd
yeah that's about how rich it should be, with a kick *** tune, it would be in the high 13's (AFR, not 1/4 mile )
and i can guess your speed at 6000rpm in 3rd
yeah that's about how rich it should be, with a kick *** tune, it would be in the high 13's (AFR, not 1/4 mile )
#313
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From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Speaking of 1/4 mile...what does the kit that Brent has do in the 1/4...or a (250) whp 2.4L, engine do in the quarter mile?
#314
1/4 mile depends a lot on the driver, wheel/tire setup, and mostly the driver...No offense to Brent, but he's a lot better on the road course than he is on the 1/4, well...except that braking incident ...but i saw him run a 15.1 on a record hot day with a non-intercooled super charger when they were working with RIPP, all of us tuned, but N/A RA's were in the 16's i think my best that day was a 15.9, the engines don't like the heat that's for sure. He didn't come down and run it with the turbo this year but i would say mid to low 14's for if i can do a 14.6 it at 210....
#315
1/4 mile depends a lot on the driver, wheel/tire setup, and mostly the driver...No offense to Brent, but he's a lot better on the road course than he is on the 1/4, well...except that braking incident ...but i saw him run a 15.1 on a record hot day with a non-intercooled super charger when they were working with RIPP, all of us tuned, but N/A RA's were in the 16's i think my best that day was a 15.9, the engines don't like the heat that's for sure. He didn't come down and run it with the turbo this year but i would say mid to low 14's for if i can do a 14.6 it at 210....