2004 Lancer Sportback Ralliart AT Build
#1188
No no. LOL He was running high compression. And put his car an a major diet.
EvoM Speed Club Avatars There you can go grab you a new avatar and join the club your drag times fit into now. lol Im too slow to even be in the 15 second club. hahaha
EvoM Speed Club Avatars There you can go grab you a new avatar and join the club your drag times fit into now. lol Im too slow to even be in the 15 second club. hahaha
Last edited by bakuro117; Mar 14, 2014 at 11:15 AM.
#1189
On that pass it was a 1.9 but I was running drag radials , full interior (Nothing taken out at all) on 13psi .
I actually stall it to about 2900Rpm in first (Yes auto) and let go of the brake and punch it , has plenty of boost out of the hole and shift to second at 6700rpm (Stock rev limit is at 6200Rpm , raised it a bit and still stock motor ) then to 3rd and ride out 3rd to till the end . Even in street tires with a 2.2 60 ft the car still does a 13.1 , there's really nothing that I do thats a secret , just have a great E85 tune that makes good power ! I know the car would do about a 12.5 launching a bit harder but the trans wont hold it , tried it once stalling it to 3200Rpm and it busted the stock diff .
Its a quick car , I have a bunch of friends with fast cars too including a friends 420whp 400Tq Evo x and we always neck and neck , you guys probably wont believe me but I also have a friend with a yellow Gallardo that we did a 40 roll with and we were also neck and neck
I actually stall it to about 2900Rpm in first (Yes auto) and let go of the brake and punch it , has plenty of boost out of the hole and shift to second at 6700rpm (Stock rev limit is at 6200Rpm , raised it a bit and still stock motor ) then to 3rd and ride out 3rd to till the end . Even in street tires with a 2.2 60 ft the car still does a 13.1 , there's really nothing that I do thats a secret , just have a great E85 tune that makes good power ! I know the car would do about a 12.5 launching a bit harder but the trans wont hold it , tried it once stalling it to 3200Rpm and it busted the stock diff .
Its a quick car , I have a bunch of friends with fast cars too including a friends 420whp 400Tq Evo x and we always neck and neck , you guys probably wont believe me but I also have a friend with a yellow Gallardo that we did a 40 roll with and we were also neck and neck
interesting...I roasted my Hoosier R6's into the second chord on one of them, so I ran street tires last year...I ran a 13.8 @ 100 with a 2.1 60ft. I have an LSD, but I think I'm either knocking a little, and the ECU is pulling timing, or the exhaust is too restrictive. I'm going to run some meth and see what happens...
#1190
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
I actually stall it to about 2900Rpm in first (Yes auto) and let go of the brake and punch it , has plenty of boost out of the hole and shift to second at 6700rpm (Stock rev limit is at 6200Rpm , raised it a bit and still stock motor ) then to 3rd and ride out 3rd to till the end .
"Stall it..." ???? Explain that...
Mine won't build more than 1-2 pounds before launch, and the rev limiter is set at 7198 rpm, so I can play with that too.
#1191
does the definition for the auto ROM have any form of launch control? mine is set for 3200 and I can build about 4-5 psi.
#1192
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Yes, it's built into mine as well. I noted when I was break boosting that my RPM's held at around 2500 rpm. So, I lowered the launch control to 2500, which enabled me to trigger the launch control while brake boosting. but since the transmission is in gear the car tends to surge under the braking, and I still develop the same amount of boost 1 to 2 psi
#1193
Yes, it's built into mine as well. I noted when I was break boosting that my RPM's held at around 2500 rpm. So, I lowered the launch control to 2500, which enabled me to trigger the launch control while brake boosting. but since the transmission is in gear the car tends to surge under the braking, and I still develop the same amount of boost 1 to 2 psi
#1194
Not to be an assho1e or anything but shouldn't the car be trapping little more than mid 90's for it to be turbo ? 60foot doesnt affect Mph at all , if anything the more you it raises it .
#1195
you hit a 12.7 @ 107, 7mph faster than my best and a 13.8 to show for it...I know a lot of AWD DSM guys (m/t and a/t) that run high 12's at around 112-ish (much heavier than a lancer)...I did find evidence of burning rubber on the lip of my wheels...maybe that had something to do with it...lol
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Mar 14, 2014 at 10:08 PM. Reason: meant to say "high 12's"
#1196
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology...
I'm able to hold the car back with the brakes, but when I reach the LC rpm, the car undulates against the brakes since it is in gear, and the RPMs even drop because of that. So, I decided to raise the limit back to 3000.
This confuses me...in order to "launch harder" the RPMs need to be higher, which is what I'm trying to say, "I can't get the RPMs higher." I mash on the brakes with my left foot, and put the accelerator to the floor with the right foot, and the engine bogs down to about 2500 rpms. The only way I can get the RPMs higher would be to do a neutral drop, and this wouldnt be a pretty outcome I'm guessing.
Okay, I think were beating a dead horse on that one. The bottom line I believe, is what Cranswick is trying to say, its the tune. Mike (hackish) gave me a conservative tune, for dependability, driveabilty, and longevity of the engine @ 7 psi. I'm @ 10 now and changes need to be made. I've got a rack that needs replaced as well, and I need to refocus.
I'm able to hold the car back with the brakes, but when I reach the LC rpm, the car undulates against the brakes since it is in gear, and the RPMs even drop because of that. So, I decided to raise the limit back to 3000.
Okay, I think were beating a dead horse on that one. The bottom line I believe, is what Cranswick is trying to say, its the tune. Mike (hackish) gave me a conservative tune, for dependability, driveabilty, and longevity of the engine @ 7 psi. I'm @ 10 now and changes need to be made. I've got a rack that needs replaced as well, and I need to refocus.
Last edited by truthdweller; Mar 15, 2014 at 08:34 AM.
#1197
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
This car is going to be slower, for remember, I'm what was it, 180 lbs heavier than the sedan? But I was hoping to be in the 14's at the least. We'll see. A new tune is already in the works.
#1198
Gary, at 10 psi, get your AFRs at least in the mid 11's in the higher rpms and ignition timing into the low mid 20's through the mid range, and increase advance with rpm at 7000 it shouldn't be more than 30 degrees, mine I believe are around 28 degrees at the top end... ignition timing should should be a shallow curve, as RPM increases the time it takes for one revolution (all 4 strokes)to occur is less, so timing needs to be advanced so the air and fuel have more time to mix and start to burn before the piston reaches TDC and the combustion pressure pushes the piston back down into the block, but if you advance too much, you'll build too much pressure when piston is still compressing the mixture, while it's trying to expand, and this will cause detonation, and literally blow the piston apart.
basically timing should start low and increase, and AFR should start high and decrease... low timing being say 20 degrees high being 30, high afr being 14 (you want it in the 13's by the time you start building boost) and low being say 11.5 (you could probably even get a 12 afr without knocking). be careful when making changes to the timing map, make small changes, and save the new tune as a different file name every time you make changes, and leave your original tune by hackish untouched, and back it up. Your issue, is most likely just fuel...bring your fuel numbers down slowly, don't touch the timing, and watch out for knock...if you start knocking, and the AFR seems like it's where it should be, then start pulling the timing for that rpm and load. do this 1-2 degrees a a time, and blend it with the surrounding cells, but try to maintain a curve.
I save my self tuned files as "vin#-16g-12psi-timing.cod" for example, then if I make another significant change, i'll add a number 2, or the parameter I changed to the filename, if it works well, i'll re-save it as the first one (not the original) and now I can use the filename with the number 2 to save future changes, from my new base tune. Are you on the UVtune forums? Hackish and Brent split up, as you know, Brent is working on another tuning solution at the moment, and I don't know if he'll continue to work under "UVtune, but Hackish will be migrating us to the Fastworks system, if you would like continued support from mike.
basically timing should start low and increase, and AFR should start high and decrease... low timing being say 20 degrees high being 30, high afr being 14 (you want it in the 13's by the time you start building boost) and low being say 11.5 (you could probably even get a 12 afr without knocking). be careful when making changes to the timing map, make small changes, and save the new tune as a different file name every time you make changes, and leave your original tune by hackish untouched, and back it up. Your issue, is most likely just fuel...bring your fuel numbers down slowly, don't touch the timing, and watch out for knock...if you start knocking, and the AFR seems like it's where it should be, then start pulling the timing for that rpm and load. do this 1-2 degrees a a time, and blend it with the surrounding cells, but try to maintain a curve.
I save my self tuned files as "vin#-16g-12psi-timing.cod" for example, then if I make another significant change, i'll add a number 2, or the parameter I changed to the filename, if it works well, i'll re-save it as the first one (not the original) and now I can use the filename with the number 2 to save future changes, from my new base tune. Are you on the UVtune forums? Hackish and Brent split up, as you know, Brent is working on another tuning solution at the moment, and I don't know if he'll continue to work under "UVtune, but Hackish will be migrating us to the Fastworks system, if you would like continued support from mike.
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Mar 15, 2014 at 10:53 AM.