SSP-Ralliart ran 12 second passes NA. But he was manual. lol

 

Stock engine Josh?

 

No no. LOL He was running high compression. And put his car an a major diet.

EvoM Speed Club Avatars There you can go grab you a new avatar and join the club your drag times fit into now. lol Im too slow to even be in the 15 second club. hahaha

 

interesting...I roasted my Hoosier R6's into the second chord on one of them, so I ran street tires last year...I ran a 13.8 @ 100 with a 2.1 60ft. I have an LSD, but I think I'm either knocking a little, and the ECU is pulling timing, or the exhaust is too restrictive. I'm going to run some meth and see what happens...

 

"Stall it..." ???? Explain that...

Mine won't build more than 1-2 pounds before launch, and the rev limiter is set at 7198 rpm, so I can play with that too.

 

does the definition for the auto ROM have any form of launch control? mine is set for 3200 and I can build about 4-5 psi.

 

Yes, it's built into mine as well. I noted when I was break boosting that my RPM's held at around 2500 rpm. So, I lowered the launch control to 2500, which enabled me to trigger the launch control while brake boosting. but since the transmission is in gear the car tends to surge under the braking, and I still develop the same amount of boost 1 to 2 psi

 

i'm not an auto guy, but you should be able to hold the car back with the brakes.

 

Thats what I and does great , I would be able to launch harder too if the diff held up . Try doing it to 2900 Rpm , just make sure you hold brakes down hard and even the ebrake !
Not to be an assho1e or anything but shouldn't the car be trapping little more than mid 90's for it to be turbo ? 60foot doesnt affect Mph at all , if anything the more you it raises it .

 

not necessarily, I ran a 14.3 @ 95. that was at 8-9psi (tapered off to 6) with a DSM big 16g. Gary's tuned, my guess is, conservatively at I believe 8psi give or take. when he's turning up the boost, I believe he's getting into "safe" zones of the fuel and timing maps...also, our software has the ability cut fuel (and what feels like throttle) at a specified manifold pressure (boost cut) to prevent engine damage in case of wastegate failure. I hit it once (ok, a few times...I want to keep it as close to what I'm tuned for), it works. however, there are also the far reaches of the boost fuel maps that contain a lot of fuel. I think that's what's happening with Gary...he told me his AFR's were low 10's if I remember correctly...and ignition advance is a similar number, lol...I'm going to have a good look through his logs.

you hit a 12.7 @ 107, 7mph faster than my best and a 13.8 to show for it...I know a lot of AWD DSM guys (m/t and a/t) that run high 12's at around 112-ish (much heavier than a lancer)...I did find evidence of burning rubber on the lip of my wheels...maybe that had something to do with it...lol

 

Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology...

I'm able to hold the car back with the brakes, but when I reach the LC rpm, the car undulates against the brakes since it is in gear, and the RPMs even drop because of that. So, I decided to raise the limit back to 3000.

This confuses me...in order to "launch harder" the RPMs need to be higher, which is what I'm trying to say, "I can't get the RPMs higher." I mash on the brakes with my left foot, and put the accelerator to the floor with the right foot, and the engine bogs down to about 2500 rpms. The only way I can get the RPMs higher would be to do a neutral drop, and this wouldnt be a pretty outcome I'm guessing.

Okay, I think were beating a dead horse on that one. The bottom line I believe, is what Cranswick is trying to say, its the tune. Mike (hackish) gave me a conservative tune, for dependability, driveabilty, and longevity of the engine @ 7 psi. I'm @ 10 now and changes need to be made. I've got a rack that needs replaced as well, and I need to refocus.

 

This car is going to be slower, for remember, I'm what was it, 180 lbs heavier than the sedan? But I was hoping to be in the 14's at the least. We'll see. A new tune is already in the works.

 

Gary, at 10 psi, get your AFRs at least in the mid 11's in the higher rpms and ignition timing into the low mid 20's through the mid range, and increase advance with rpm at 7000 it shouldn't be more than 30 degrees, mine I believe are around 28 degrees at the top end... ignition timing should should be a shallow curve, as RPM increases the time it takes for one revolution (all 4 strokes)to occur is less, so timing needs to be advanced so the air and fuel have more time to mix and start to burn before the piston reaches TDC and the combustion pressure pushes the piston back down into the block, but if you advance too much, you'll build too much pressure when piston is still compressing the mixture, while it's trying to expand, and this will cause detonation, and literally blow the piston apart.

basically timing should start low and increase, and AFR should start high and decrease... low timing being say 20 degrees high being 30, high afr being 14 (you want it in the 13's by the time you start building boost) and low being say 11.5 (you could probably even get a 12 afr without knocking). be careful when making changes to the timing map, make small changes, and save the new tune as a different file name every time you make changes, and leave your original tune by hackish untouched, and back it up. Your issue, is most likely just fuel...bring your fuel numbers down slowly, don't touch the timing, and watch out for knock...if you start knocking, and the AFR seems like it's where it should be, then start pulling the timing for that rpm and load. do this 1-2 degrees a a time, and blend it with the surrounding cells, but try to maintain a curve.

I save my self tuned files as "vin#-16g-12psi-timing.cod" for example, then if I make another significant change, i'll add a number 2, or the parameter I changed to the filename, if it works well, i'll re-save it as the first one (not the original) and now I can use the filename with the number 2 to save future changes, from my new base tune. Are you on the UVtune forums? Hackish and Brent split up, as you know, Brent is working on another tuning solution at the moment, and I don't know if he'll continue to work under "UVtune, but Hackish will be migrating us to the Fastworks system, if you would like continued support from mike.

 

Next:

 

This just in... I'll let you know what all we find as soon as we get everything apart and put in: