Hey guys, I know some of you have custom builds with 14b turbos, Im looking at doing this for my RA, but I'd like to hear what you guys think about it. Im not looking for crazy power, But ive also been considering building the motor and going for a higher boost setup... I dont know which way to go and was wondering if I could get some input? I know RRM has a 16g kit for it, but that looks way overpriced and Id rather reflash my ECU then go with a piggyback.

Just toss out an opinion, Thanks,

 

RRM's kit is overpriced, and the 16g they use is an Evo 3 GT, it's a knock-off of the MHI Evo III big 16g...

now ask yourself, why would anyone pay that much for a kit that is built around a turbo that costs less than $400 brand new...

i think i'm the only one running a 14b, and i would recommend a 16g...i'll be installing my big 16g in a couple weeks...

 

Okay, well, How much can I expect to spend? I only want to run 8psi or so and Id like to avoid pulling my engine if possible. I already have a clutch on order (thanks to your post) and Ive already decided not to go near that rrm kit....

Thanks.

 

Unfortunately at least for me the shop I was asking about building a kit for me, they were saying that doing a custom kit with running a standalone was going to run me near 10 grand -_-

 

10 large is crazy...i don't understand how they could say that to someone with a straight face...

as far as spending...$2,500 wouldn't be unreasonable if you get a used turbo, stock Evo/DSM turbos are great, you can find low mileage ones for a decent price from guys who get BIG aftermarket turbos...i built my kit for a bit more than $1,500...but did most of the work myself, and found a lot of really good deals on parts (some were free!)...everything but the welding...so i did all the mock-ups, measurements, cutting, etc...all my welder had to do was run the bead.

have a look at some 02-03 lancer turbo threads, these guys are using a lot of stock Evo parts. I went full custom.

you should also research how turbos work...cause 8psi depends on a lot of things...like the volume of your charge pipe, intercooler size, engine/exhuast flow etc. On the simpler side, 8-9psi from a 14b makes about 215whp with my setup, the same boost pressure from a big 16g could potentially yield 230-240whp...there's a lot that comes into play when choosing a turbo charger, but i'll tell you now, the 14b works, it was fun, spools like a **** and hits fast, but it falls flat early because of its size. Hackish being the man he is was able to stretch out my peak hp to about 5,800rpm which is pretty damn good. My initial plan was that it would only be a placeholder, as all DSM 16g's small and big, even the Evo III are the exact same size as a 14b, so they all could swap right in without changing anything...

 

lol yeah everything would've been done by the shop in terms of mock-ups, measurements, welding and brand new parts. they were saying the manifold would run like 1200ish and the downpipe would be like 500ish. but most of the cost would just be the manufacturing labor i think.

 

Thanks, I could spend 2500, I just don't really know where to start, I don't have the experience or tools to custom fabricate the kit, but I can put it together.

So far I know I need the turbocharger itself, intercooler, bov, wastegate, manifold, some way to run the oil and coolant feeds(I shouldn't have a problem.with that) I'm sure I'm missing some stuff.

Also I haven't been able to find a 4g69 Turbo manifold with porting for an external wastegate.

 

you can take any old manfold and just cut a hole in the collector and flange it for any wastegate...

1200 is a bit steep for a manifold...mine cost a bit over $100, even if you had someone make a log type manifold it shouldn't cost more than $3-400 and for a tubular manifold i would say a good quality custom one shouldn't cost more than $800...and for a downpipe, mine costed me less than $300 for a 2-piece with a catalytic converter and flex pipe included...that allowed me to switch between N/A and turbo with 4 bolts...that's bending, fitting and welding...that's the only thing i didn't do myself. I had purchased flanges and piping do DIY, but i had everything else i needed to turbo the motor, so i just paid my muffler shop to make it so i could have it done sooner...i spent more just to be boosted a few weeks sooner

The best place to start is to find/make a manifold for as little as possible without sacrificing quality/durability. beautiful punk is working on a design...Hackish's design is really nice, but turbo-kits scrapped production. RRM's manifold is sold separately, but i heard it's not the best quality for the price. RPW's manifold is pretty solid, but it's expensive, and shipping would probably be crazy. The cast STR manifold might work with an angled flange adapter and pusher fans.

Once you have a manifold, you would choose a turbo that suits your needs, base on what the manifold is flanged for...oil feed is easy, and charge piping is pretty universal, so a downpipe is the next thing you need, and you need a manifold and turbo before you can design a downpipe

 

If I were to build a custom kit I'd choose the Evo 8 turbo. It's readily available, cheap, and good to 250+whp. With us the having a 2.4L that ****er will spool like a tornado.

Cranswick, is your turbo build thread a sticky yet?

 

Yes I too have thought the evo 8-9 oem turbo would be a good choice.


Crans ,I remember sometime back you showed a kit that would allow it to run at lower psi . Could you post that link again please.

Crans has several threads related to building a turbo kit. Choosing not to read them would be as dumb as choosing not to search for them.

 

In the DSM world...the 16g won't make anymore power than a 14b at such low boost...its at 18+ psi where the 16g outshines the 14b.

 

No, it is not...

I don't recall, but typically if you want to run low boost, you would opt for an external wastegate, and many quality wastegates have interchangeable spring kits, i've seen them as low as 0.3 BAR which is around 4psi. Boost controllers can only increase boost by restricting the boost source for the actuator. You can run lower boost with internal wastegates, there are companies that make low boost internal actuators...but if you wanted to run 18psi, i would recommend at least 8-10psi at the wastegate, i don't think a 4psi wastegate would work well at higher pressures.

I have the turbo kit build thread, and the manifold build thread. i don't know about several

On a 2.4L 4G69, the 7cm turbine housing and the bigger compressor on the 16 wheel should make a much bigger difference than it would on the 4G63, especially with larger diameter charge pipe, and the larger displacement engine, to fill that volume with enough air to create above atmospheric pressure it requires the turbo to move more air than it would on a DSM, this is where the 14b hot side becomes a restriction, and throws the pressure ratio off. a 16g will flow more air at the same RPM, thus creating equal boost at a lower RPM, allowing better flow (less "back pressure" i guess i'll call it) through the turbine section/wastegate.

 

Judging from all this chit chat about the 16g, I may as well go with that. But If I tried to make a manifold, it would turn out awfully lol. I guess what I'm asking, is if anyone would be so kind as to throw together a quick checklist of sorts? I know my way around cars, but I'm fairly new to forced induction, any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

Search ....... https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...induction.html

This was at the top of the forced induction section , your not even trying

 

It wasn't showing tht on my mobile site idk why, my bad lol.