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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

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Old Nov 1, 2005, 01:10 PM
  #91  
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^^ lol
Old Nov 1, 2005, 01:31 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by Thunder-rush
It's not karman I have the RRM piggy and R4 software it runs from 1.6v idle to 4.6-7v full blast and the tables are X=RPM and Y=voltage. And NO it's not compatible with either SAFC,AFC or old blue E-manage. I tried the SAFC and it's not compatible.
You are an WRONG... karmen in--> converted to voltage... adjusted with piggy... converted back to karmen---> info fed back to ecu. Voltage is faster and easier to alter than karmen hz frequency. Less time is lost in the conversion doing it this way than any other. GUESS WHAT... SAFC does the same thing only on a genric scaling so it should theoretically work on all cars.

PLEASE don't correct me on a product i know all the intimate details about. That just further proves how nieve and impulsive you are.

For those that want to play more on your own i've given a lot of info. Unfortunately i'm done giving as i'll just be corrected by those without the substance to back up their claims.
Old Nov 1, 2005, 03:12 PM
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i personally did not have any intention of offending you. i know you know the ins and outs of the RRM unit and adding your input. i'm just trying to bring together info about the sensor into the thread to get other units to work. i also know that i seem to jump from one way to the other, but i'm just trying to interpret the new information. i personally am confused at the moment. this looks like a new sensor and would be great info to have archived here in the forums.

i'm buying a sensor so i can mess with it. the car doesn't(or shouldn't) have to be on for the sensor to read anything. my karman sensor can read with ignition on engine off. i'll just play with the safc until i get a reading as well as whatever my ****ty radio shack voltmeter can tell me
Old Nov 1, 2005, 03:26 PM
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it's not you rhzin... it's people that want to make statements as truth when they don't actually know.

The sensor is not new. It's a variation of the same sensor in the 2g eclipse/3g eclipse/ralliart/etc. Simple design changes give them different frequency variences in order to dial in the motor to its intake capabilities.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 03:40 AM
  #95  
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I'm putting here what the RRM piggy does and it modifies voltage not Frequency. If you want I can put the datalog of how the voltage moves in 2K-6K 3rd gear run. If you can put how it really works then you can do the RA comunity a big favor. I,m trying here to help not to putt anyone down

Last edited by Thunder-rush; Nov 2, 2005 at 03:55 AM.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 07:13 AM
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YOU ARE SO TOTALLY RIGHT!! The sensor is voltage... good luck with that. Oh and since you're so well versed in the RRM piggy why don't you tell the forum how it works down to the last detail so they can all follow your lead to success.

Guys... good luck with this one. I'm out and done! Rhyzin if you want to talk about things further feel free to pm me. I'm always honest and knowledgeable about what i post atleast.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 07:20 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Thunder-rush
If you can put how it really works then you can do the RA comunity a big favor...
I did this already... Karmen in---> modified to voltage... adjusted with piggy... modified back to Karmen--> Karmen out to ecu.

Figure it out from there... AFC/SAFC does the same thing but with generic frequency/voltage table not finely tuned for each application.

A frequency range in a sensor could be 15-2000, 25-3000, 30-1500, etc... SAFC/AFC modifies predetermined amount of frequency via a voltage conversion however on the setup you just see numbers +/- on dials or +/- on a screen. Usually equating to a percentage of the signal modified either +/-. Thus it is generic for all applications and wouldn't have the resolution for minute adjustements a box specifically callibrated to the sensors frequency range would.

But agian... the sensor is Voltage right?? So i guess you could just convert to a hotwire setup without needing a translator? You go boy
Old Nov 2, 2005, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Thunder-rush
I'm putting here what the RRM piggy does and it modifies voltage not Frequency. If you want I can put the datalog of how the voltage moves in 2K-6K 3rd gear run. If you can put how it really works then you can do the RA comunity a big favor. I,m trying here to help not to putt anyone down
unfortunately, looking at the piggyback logs don't mean anything at all. ALL the piggybacks sold by splitsec(the source for RRM's piggybacks) convert to voltage. splitsec sells different piggybacks that use different sensors(MAP, MAS, Karman, etc.) but they all use the same software. the software is universal. what this means is that the hardware for each piggyback takes in the sensor signal and modifies it to a voltage that the piggyback can modify, then re-converts that voltage to a signal the ecu can read. this follow boe's model and applies to all piggyback type devices despite the sensor being used.

boe is also right in saying that split sec will modify their boxes for specific applications. some of the toyota guys had problems with one of the their units because one of their oem sensors weren't compatible. splitsec then tweaked the boxes so they can use it.

if you carry all this over to the karman setup of the 4g94, you can see that this makes sense for another reason. you cannot modify a karman frequency by adding or subtracting voltage. in this instance, the model is also correct.

sooooooo, if you want to post a datalog, it will probably have to be from an oscilloscope with a recording function to show us how the sensor works.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 11:09 AM
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You guys are blowing this out of proportions. If you guys have the solution then good for you I'm not questioning anyones knowledge here. So the question here is..? How can you put the SAFC to work with the ralliart.? What people here want to know is does the SAFC work or doesn't work with the RA.? I'm not bashing anyone I was explaining what I saw when I hooked up the RRM piggy in the car and that in my experience with the SAFC I could not get it to work with the RA. I am trying to help people avoid buying something that might not work for their car.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 01:34 PM
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language sucks in that if you don't use it correctly, people are going to misunderstand you. in your last post, you took what you saw and made it seem like a factual statement. you didn't ask about it or state it as a hypothesis. that implies that you're expressing what you saw as a fact that cannot be disproved. we disproved your statement. that's all it is.

we also understand the question. we know what kind of answer people want. that's why we're here. no one really has said to go out and buy anything. at this point, posts with new data or questions about explaining something are only really acceptable if we want to keep the thread posts down and get to the point. or hell, if someone truly has proof of an answer, post that, too.
Old Nov 2, 2005, 01:41 PM
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I've tuned a Ralliart with old school AFC... was nothing special. New SAFC should work just the same.
Old Nov 4, 2005, 06:01 AM
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hahaha, sorry to post (IM A NOOB of SAFC) but im REALLY curious, all i knw about them is that they are a tuning device for our computer system in our car (ECU). Can anyone give me a lecture?? lol sorry guys!! btw, does it work on RAs??
Old Nov 4, 2005, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by mattville
btw, does it work on RAs??
Read this thread.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 11:30 PM
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well i got the sensor the other day. i wired it in, and well.... i think i just fried my ecu. gonna spend my time trying to get the car started. otherwise, i'm gonna buy and wait for a new ecu.

bad bad ralliart mas!

i'm sure i wired it in right. i just think i may have crossed some terminals when i was checking with a voltmeter. oh well. you guys are on your own for now.

Last edited by rhyzin; Nov 10, 2005 at 11:52 PM.
Old Nov 10, 2005, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rhyzin
well i got the sensor the other day. i wired it in, and well.... i think i just fried my ecu. gonna spend my time trying to get the car started. otherwise, i'm gonna buy and wait for a new ecu.

bad bad ralliart mas!

i'm sure i wired it in right. i just think i may have crossed some terminals when i was checking with a voltmeter. oh well. you guys are on your own for the now.
that's why people disconect stuff before wiring it and double. it's pretty easy, no ore than 20 minutes job


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