tuning with a wideband basics for the RA
#35
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So for example Dan, I have a Haltech ECU.
So when I get this wideband, I just connect it to the ecu pins (figure that out I have no idea), and connect it also to the o2 sensor which will also be connected to a laptop?
Open the program and start optimizing A/F ratios to 13.3 (best for N.A as you mentioned) and play around with it until I like my "curve".?
So I can add when to have more fuel to kick in? And in theory, its best at 3500rpm..?
So when I get this wideband, I just connect it to the ecu pins (figure that out I have no idea), and connect it also to the o2 sensor which will also be connected to a laptop?
Open the program and start optimizing A/F ratios to 13.3 (best for N.A as you mentioned) and play around with it until I like my "curve".?
So I can add when to have more fuel to kick in? And in theory, its best at 3500rpm..?
#36
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It all depends on the mods you have, how hot it is, altitude, quality of gas (octane rating) etc.
Do you have the cable and software to edit the ecu maps?
If you the option to do that with the ecu, then yes. If not, the wideband packages come with instructions on either replacing the stock sensor or running three sensors. once you do this you can evaluate where you need to add or subtract fuel with the ecu. you should get the manual from haltech or rpw.
Do you have the cable and software to edit the ecu maps?
If you the option to do that with the ecu, then yes. If not, the wideband packages come with instructions on either replacing the stock sensor or running three sensors. once you do this you can evaluate where you need to add or subtract fuel with the ecu. you should get the manual from haltech or rpw.
#37
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I don't have anything as of yet Dan, but I am looking at this gadget in the near future!
I'll probably get the wideband from Haltech as they have one. Probably get one of the guys to (hopefully) give me a run-down on the basics! This car is tuned but I want to learn to tune this baby as you guys make it sound interesting and knowledgable!
I'll probably get the wideband from Haltech as they have one. Probably get one of the guys to (hopefully) give me a run-down on the basics! This car is tuned but I want to learn to tune this baby as you guys make it sound interesting and knowledgable!
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Well mine was tuned by Haltech, no doubt there tune will ever go away, but I always thought tunes always lose its tune eventually.
Like there will be a few flat spots or something after..
Like there will be a few flat spots or something after..
#41
The only way it can lose it's tune, is if there's a hardware failure of some kind. If everything is done correctly the first time, you shouldn't need to do any re-tuning in the future.
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The reason you need to re-tune is if you add more mods. I think what Dan was asking is do you have the software that tunes the haltech? RRM gives you the software with theirs, then you just need to go to a PC store and buy the cable.
#44
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sent to me today:
Hey Dan,
So how much did you get your wideband for? Is it any good?
I bought the innovate motorsports LC-1, and it is fine for someone running NA that owns the tactrix cable. there are better options, but none you can get for less than 200$. I paid about 180 to have mine shipped to me. It will not log AFR to RPM without an additional cable/controller. This is necessary for fine tuning the car, you can get a very good map without logging to RPM though. If you are going turbo you will need additional sensors and datalogging capability.
Over the week I'll be asking you questions about tuning with a wideband, would you mind answering them?
Post in the threads I linked below so everyone can input/learn from our discussions. It will be more helpful in the long run.
Also, with tuning, does it all become easy later on, like when you started was it difficult? Did you have any help?
I didn't have any help, and in the beginning it is difficult to understand. Once you see how everything works and put that together with your research it becomes easier. when it all makes sense in your head is when it becomes very easy, it took me a little while to get to this point.
I really want to get into it so I can just tune it from my end and then take it to a dyno to see the result.
Like, how do you know whats the best optimum power to tune it at, like whats the best rpm to kick in more fuel, certain time etc...
Is there like a certain figure were suppose to go after? I seen somewhere where you wrote something about the air ratio needs to be like 21 or something or 14, not too sure on the number.
you are always tuning for an optimum AFR, because that AFR is where the car will produce the most power. For NA you should shoot for the low to mid 13's (13.2 to 13.5.) the closer to 13.3 the better. these numbers are for wide open throttle only, that's the only thing the piggyback tunes because it is using a lookup map instead of the narrowband o2 sensor readings.
Can you direct me to some of your threads regarding wideband tuning please.
So from my understanding you hook the wideband to your o2 sensor and the cable from your wideband goes into your laptop where there is a software which reads the air/fuel ratios..? Also, do you step on the gas to get a reading? How do you know whats good?
A wideband is actually a term we use to describe a whole system. The wideband UEGO sensor is one part, the datalogger is another part, the software and cable to hook your laptor to the datalogger is the third part. Depending on the brand you can also plot against other values, such as the engine RPM which is pretty critical for fine tuning. It will read the AFR constantly, but the only AFR you can tune for is what you get under wide open throttle, and what is good is not having the car too rich or too lean for your application.
ARGH, so many questions...
So how much did you get your wideband for? Is it any good?
I bought the innovate motorsports LC-1, and it is fine for someone running NA that owns the tactrix cable. there are better options, but none you can get for less than 200$. I paid about 180 to have mine shipped to me. It will not log AFR to RPM without an additional cable/controller. This is necessary for fine tuning the car, you can get a very good map without logging to RPM though. If you are going turbo you will need additional sensors and datalogging capability.
Over the week I'll be asking you questions about tuning with a wideband, would you mind answering them?
Post in the threads I linked below so everyone can input/learn from our discussions. It will be more helpful in the long run.
Also, with tuning, does it all become easy later on, like when you started was it difficult? Did you have any help?
I didn't have any help, and in the beginning it is difficult to understand. Once you see how everything works and put that together with your research it becomes easier. when it all makes sense in your head is when it becomes very easy, it took me a little while to get to this point.
I really want to get into it so I can just tune it from my end and then take it to a dyno to see the result.
Like, how do you know whats the best optimum power to tune it at, like whats the best rpm to kick in more fuel, certain time etc...
Is there like a certain figure were suppose to go after? I seen somewhere where you wrote something about the air ratio needs to be like 21 or something or 14, not too sure on the number.
you are always tuning for an optimum AFR, because that AFR is where the car will produce the most power. For NA you should shoot for the low to mid 13's (13.2 to 13.5.) the closer to 13.3 the better. these numbers are for wide open throttle only, that's the only thing the piggyback tunes because it is using a lookup map instead of the narrowband o2 sensor readings.
Can you direct me to some of your threads regarding wideband tuning please.
So from my understanding you hook the wideband to your o2 sensor and the cable from your wideband goes into your laptop where there is a software which reads the air/fuel ratios..? Also, do you step on the gas to get a reading? How do you know whats good?
A wideband is actually a term we use to describe a whole system. The wideband UEGO sensor is one part, the datalogger is another part, the software and cable to hook your laptor to the datalogger is the third part. Depending on the brand you can also plot against other values, such as the engine RPM which is pretty critical for fine tuning. It will read the AFR constantly, but the only AFR you can tune for is what you get under wide open throttle, and what is good is not having the car too rich or too lean for your application.
ARGH, so many questions...
#45
That's not actually true. Having done some work for OEMs in the past they are often concerned with what happens as an engine ages. This and manufacturing differences are why they can have such complicated O2 trims and feedback schemes.
-Michael
-Michael
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