RPW - Camshaft & Cam Gear & Retune!
#106
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If it is the modulator, would that mean I would need a new clutch?
We did get some nice in-car action but my friend couldn't hold the camera still!
If there is anyone else that would like certain video features, post up and let me know!
We did get some nice in-car action but my friend couldn't hold the camera still!
If there is anyone else that would like certain video features, post up and let me know!
#107
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no, not a new clutch. you would have to remove the modulator. It's there to make sure n00bs don't destroy the clutch with a couple of bad shifts. If you are confident the modulator is slowing down your shifting there is a DIY on here somewhere. It is one of those mods that can be done for free, or you can buy the lower SS clutch line.
When you shift, does it seem like you have to wait for the clutch? Like you are already in gear and ready to go but it takes a moment or two for the clutch to fully engage? That's the clutch slave modulator slowing your clutch fluid down, and therefore slowing the clutch engagement. If you remove it the clutch will be fully engaged as fast as you need it to be, no lag.
This especially helped when I started double clutching, there is no way I could produce fast results with a valve like that installed.
When you shift, does it seem like you have to wait for the clutch? Like you are already in gear and ready to go but it takes a moment or two for the clutch to fully engage? That's the clutch slave modulator slowing your clutch fluid down, and therefore slowing the clutch engagement. If you remove it the clutch will be fully engaged as fast as you need it to be, no lag.
This especially helped when I started double clutching, there is no way I could produce fast results with a valve like that installed.
#108
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To be honest, I'll have to get back to you on that one regarding the shifts, however in saying that, with a clutch slave modulator, do they come stock or something?
EDIT: Just took a look at ROAD/RACE Stainless Steel Clutchline For Ralliart, is this an install I could pretty much tackle?
EDIT: Just took a look at ROAD/RACE Stainless Steel Clutchline For Ralliart, is this an install I could pretty much tackle?
#110
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Before you start ripping the clutch line apart and replacing it - a little Australian info for you.. I have already done that to mine and it made almost no difference at all to the gear changes I/we thnk it could have something to do more so with the ecu so as to meet the emissions laws here in Australia...
#111
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I see, thanks for that Christine!
Okay, best to blame the granny shifting
The thing is though, I do consider myself a fairly good manual driver and I'm not slow on the stick as well. Not sure, perhaps the camera lol.
Okay, best to blame the granny shifting
The thing is though, I do consider myself a fairly good manual driver and I'm not slow on the stick as well. Not sure, perhaps the camera lol.
#112
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yeah, that one to two shift was horrible though, I went back and listened to it again last night. you have at least a half-second were the clutch is slipping, that's not good.
Christine, I am not sure what emissions laws you have that would affect clutch engagement, but please do fill me in.
If you can't feel it it doesn't mean it didn't do anything, and from listening to his shifts I am not sure that it won't help him. Of course, if he sucks at shifting it may hurt him
Let me just tell you man, you have to be spot on with your shifts if you remove this modulator. There is little room for error before you are grinding gears, so be sure you are confident in your ability. Remember, it's a safety device to make the car idiot proof. That means you have to shift slow enough to make sense, not just slamming it into gear and dropping the clutch because it will do that now.
I would say go for it, you won't believe the difference in speed it will make, my foot can outrun my hand in this car between the mod delete and clutch block. Shifting is one of the major time improvements you can make in racing, smoothness and speed are very important and you can do neither with the slave modulator.
Christine, I am not sure what emissions laws you have that would affect clutch engagement, but please do fill me in.
If you can't feel it it doesn't mean it didn't do anything, and from listening to his shifts I am not sure that it won't help him. Of course, if he sucks at shifting it may hurt him
Let me just tell you man, you have to be spot on with your shifts if you remove this modulator. There is little room for error before you are grinding gears, so be sure you are confident in your ability. Remember, it's a safety device to make the car idiot proof. That means you have to shift slow enough to make sense, not just slamming it into gear and dropping the clutch because it will do that now.
I would say go for it, you won't believe the difference in speed it will make, my foot can outrun my hand in this car between the mod delete and clutch block. Shifting is one of the major time improvements you can make in racing, smoothness and speed are very important and you can do neither with the slave modulator.
#113
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The way the Ecu does the emissions thing is by hanging revs between gear changes, I really dont know much about how it is done , but someone here should know
Sorry Edit
Sorry Edit
Last edited by KreepaEvoX; Jun 5, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
#115
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I beleive Christine is referring to the fact that the fly by wire throttle body holds the rpm's at aroud 1500 rpm for several seconds before letting it depress back to idle. This in conjunction with the clutch restrictor is what makes the car appear to slip between fast gearchanges.
Back onto camshafts for the moment, check the following link for some more information for those interested in them.
http://mitsunation.net/showthread.php?p=86535#post86535
Back onto camshafts for the moment, check the following link for some more information for those interested in them.
http://mitsunation.net/showthread.php?p=86535#post86535
#116
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if your tach is falling to 1500 between shifts you need more practice. And how in the world would that effect how fast you move the clutch in and out? I know the brake booster is controlled by vacuum, but there is plenty of vacuum between shifts. It seems like maybe you guys in AU are over analyzing what is really starting to look like a missed shift.
MitVRX, what other shifting techniques do you use? How do you rate yourself with a manual transmission, compared to say a semi-pro race car driver? I am just trying to help you out, I will leave you alone if you don't want any help
MitVRX, what other shifting techniques do you use? How do you rate yourself with a manual transmission, compared to say a semi-pro race car driver? I am just trying to help you out, I will leave you alone if you don't want any help
#117
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1500 between shifts! Yikes - that is hella bad!
Its more like 750rpm - 850rpm. I'll take a vid to be sure though.
Put it this way, I classify myself as a decent manual driver. I wouldn't say I'm slow on the stick, I'd consider myself pretty fast. Not going to really going into comparing myself to a semi-pro car driver because they're semi-pro for a reason.
As mentioned before I've been driving stick for well over two years now, and if I can't shift I think I would clearly know. Of course there is always better ways to improve and I'm open to suggesstions - it's free advice!
All I did was shot a flyby twice, (well once, the first was my friend) and its not like everytime I launch it its going to be perfect, no-ones perfect from the dig. There will always be mis-shifts once in a while and that was done on a suburban road in a 50km zone (30 zone for you guys). There were no double takes (geez can't believe Im going into this) it was just a one-off shot.
Its more like 750rpm - 850rpm. I'll take a vid to be sure though.
Put it this way, I classify myself as a decent manual driver. I wouldn't say I'm slow on the stick, I'd consider myself pretty fast. Not going to really going into comparing myself to a semi-pro car driver because they're semi-pro for a reason.
As mentioned before I've been driving stick for well over two years now, and if I can't shift I think I would clearly know. Of course there is always better ways to improve and I'm open to suggesstions - it's free advice!
All I did was shot a flyby twice, (well once, the first was my friend) and its not like everytime I launch it its going to be perfect, no-ones perfect from the dig. There will always be mis-shifts once in a while and that was done on a suburban road in a 50km zone (30 zone for you guys). There were no double takes (geez can't believe Im going into this) it was just a one-off shot.
Last edited by MITVRX; Jun 6, 2007 at 06:16 PM.
#119
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I think I would like to see Dan take flyby. (even though I know he hates them )
See what the difference is in what he is talking about. Also a in-car action of your rev-limiter. Not trying to hate on you or anything, just want to see what the fuss is all about.
@ the past few posts.
Just wait until I get new tires, that will kill a lot of everything haha
See what the difference is in what he is talking about. Also a in-car action of your rev-limiter. Not trying to hate on you or anything, just want to see what the fuss is all about.
@ the past few posts.
Just wait until I get new tires, that will kill a lot of everything haha
#120
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Just de-pressing the gas all the way is enough, remember that it is Throttle by wire, and while it is fairly quick, the vacuum effect of closing and opening it takes away some. The ideal thingis to nearly erradicate lifting the throttle at all when shifting... you need to shift fast enough so you can shift before the revs even go up, lets say, they shouldnt even climb 500 rpm when you shift, thats at most. So you need to be quick,l really quick...I wish I had a non street racing video, to demonstrate