P2127 code
Jan 28, 2008, 06:18 PM
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P2127 code
Hi, I started experiencing a weird bogging at idle where it dips as low as 400 and then pretty much stalls out on it's own. I thought it was the battery because it has been pretty cold up here -40C temperatures but it turns over fine. I even bought a new battery and still seems to have that problem. Alternator is fine as well. I can save the car from dying at a stop light just by keeping a bit of gas to keep it above the stalling point but it is very frustrating.
Eventually a CEL came on and I got it scanned with my buddy's OBDII Scanner and came up with P2127 (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (Sub) Circuit Low Input). What happens is after it stalls sometimes it does not wanna stay on after trying to start the car. It cranks and does eventually start but it can't find the idle to stay and and it stalls out again if I don't kick the gas on time. What I did try is removing the throttle cable harness and unplugged it and it started fine and easy and stayed on normal but obviously with it unplugged I can't even give the car gas to drive around. So it leads me to some sort of problem with that cable or something. Anyone have any clues? I have an appointment on Wed morning at the dealership to take a look as well.
Eventually a CEL came on and I got it scanned with my buddy's OBDII Scanner and came up with P2127 (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (Sub) Circuit Low Input). What happens is after it stalls sometimes it does not wanna stay on after trying to start the car. It cranks and does eventually start but it can't find the idle to stay and and it stalls out again if I don't kick the gas on time. What I did try is removing the throttle cable harness and unplugged it and it started fine and easy and stayed on normal but obviously with it unplugged I can't even give the car gas to drive around. So it leads me to some sort of problem with that cable or something. Anyone have any clues? I have an appointment on Wed morning at the dealership to take a look as well.
Jan 28, 2008, 06:40 PM
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We got 2-3 customers that brings their car to the garage for that. To fix this concern, I just put some electrical grease in the connector of the app sensor. It seems like a bad contact between the pin connector. Thoses guy never come back for this after...
Jan 28, 2008, 07:03 PM
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I would test the values.....meaning using a DVOM and testing to see if there is power at idle and power at WOT......If i remember right it is about 4-5 wires......one is designated ground wire.....1 is idle power and other wot throttle wire.....and another a signal for the speed at which it travels.....if there is no heat contacts on the prongs or corrosion i would use diolectric grease.....but only after checking to see if it is a bad TP sender/sensor......you have to remember that our cars a run but wire......so if the sensor is bad then the TPS on the throttle body won't work properly.....just my opinion....
Jan 29, 2008, 04:05 AM
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I totally agree with you ssp-ralliart. You should check wires before, but I guess that's not everybody that got tools or are able to test completly the system...
Jan 29, 2008, 10:15 AM
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thanks guys I'll give it clean up and grease and then test the values after and let you guys know. Before work today I took a wiggle at the connector then I started up the car and it seemed to idle a bit better after warm up. It almost dropped down to stalling point but it just bounced off arround 400 and back up to 1k and idled for a bit there. Managed to drive it to work without stalling. So tonight I'll take a look a the connection.
Jan 29, 2008, 12:16 PM
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I would test the values.....meaning using a DVOM and testing to see if there is power at idle and power at WOT......If i remember right it is about 4-5 wires......one is designated ground wire.....1 is idle power and other wot throttle wire.....and another a signal for the speed at which it travels.....if there is no heat contacts on the prongs or corrosion i would use diolectric grease.....but only after checking to see if it is a bad TP sender/sensor......you have to remember that our cars a run but wire......so if the sensor is bad then the TPS on the throttle body won't work properly.....just my opinion....
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Jan 29, 2008, 05:53 PM
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and it had stopped your problem otter ? The first time I've seen this code, I've checked everything, wire, voltage, resistance and watch it works on the scan tool. Then I've put the electrical grease and it fix the problem...
(off topic) Otter, the rattle noise you have from your tranny, Does it make it on the idle only ?
(off topic) Otter, the rattle noise you have from your tranny, Does it make it on the idle only ?
Jan 29, 2008, 06:08 PM
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Ok sorry I tought we talked the same noise... Because today I've found the rattle noise from tranny, a bird song at idle only, it stopped when you touch the clutch...but this isn't yours...
Jan 30, 2008, 09:10 AM
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imagine how many design flaws we got with the 04MY
If I hadn't replaced half of my engine already I bet it would have been in for service much more than it has, which was more often than I cared for as it is. I have yet to replace my creaks, err shocks, but since I've done so many other things I just quit worrying about the warranty last year...
Jan 30, 2008, 05:26 PM
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The first time we put the new clutch bearing for the noise, the sound stop a little while like you said. But it came back after 1 month. The second time, the clucth bearing was almost new, but we had order a new clucth bearing and a new fork... The new fork design wasn'T the same as the older one, it has changed a little bit.
The play was between the fork and the ''ball'' that hold the fork, so it had a little bit loose and the fork rattle agains the bearing...
Jan 30, 2008, 08:49 PM
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thanks guys I'll give it clean up and grease and then test the values after and let you guys know. Before work today I took a wiggle at the connector then I started up the car and it seemed to idle a bit better after warm up. It almost dropped down to stalling point but it just bounced off arround 400 and back up to 1k and idled for a bit there. Managed to drive it to work without stalling. So tonight I'll take a look a the connection.
My RA actually does the same thing. When I push in the clutch to stop, the idle dips low. It has never actually stalled, but when it's really cold out (-30 to -40) it will sometimes dip really low, to the point that the lights dim and the engine really struggles, then it bounces back to a normal idle. It only seems to do it once it's on low idle, never does it on high idle.