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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

just did timing belt, vibration

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Old Oct 18, 2008, 09:34 AM
  #16  
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lol..thats awesome, ill let you know if i need help. Did you guys go with oem belt of one from autozone?
Old Oct 19, 2008, 12:21 AM
  #17  
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I went to dealership, got the timing belt, balance belt, water pump and spark plugs from them.

IIRC balance belt was like $30ish, timing was $86ish, and water pump $180ish.
Old Oct 19, 2008, 12:16 PM
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sounds good

thanks for the info
Old Aug 2, 2009, 06:00 PM
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My balancer shaft belt snapped today, 20,000 after dealer replaced it...

when it snapped it got stuck in the timing belt, stripping the teeth.

I bought the replacement belts, but need to figure out how to get everything back to the right mark... Any one have some photos or can scan the manual sections I need to set the balancer and timing.

really in a bind, the car is at my ex-wifes house as it snapped while picking up my daughter...
Old Aug 2, 2009, 07:07 PM
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There are paint marks on the engine where everything important should line up.
Old Aug 3, 2009, 07:52 AM
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I see the mark on the balance shaft gear, but not sure where on the motor it lines up to. Same for the crank - there a white paint mark on it but not sure where it lines up to on the motor.

Thanks for helping out with this...
Old Aug 3, 2009, 10:58 PM
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on the crank, there's a little mark on the cam gear, this goes to TDC (or top dead center)

on the balance shaft gear, IIRC when I did my 60k mile tune last summer, there is a raised triangular prism looking thing coming off the block, with a tip of it pointing to where the mark on the balance gear goes....
Old Aug 4, 2009, 09:52 PM
  #23  
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kewl... thanks for the help... got everything lined up only to discover my oil pump is locked up solid... not a good sign...
Old Mar 28, 2011, 11:54 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by otter
It's possible to have the balance shaft off. Rotate everything to TDC then shove a screwdriver into the balance shaft access port on the front of the engine. You should be able to stick it in 2.4". If you can't, then it's out of phase.
According to this pic in the attachment, what you're referring to is the oil pump sprocket. As far as I know, the only balance shaft sprocket is the one that is run off the smaller belt behind the timing belt. Can anyone confirm this?

I just did a 60K belt replacement last night and am noticing a slight vibration like mentioned. All of my marks line up, even the oil pump sprocket marks every third TDC occurrence. I was going to try the screwdriver check method next weekend to see if it goes in, even though the marks line up. Anyone have any other ideas?
Attached Thumbnails just did timing belt, vibration-timing.png  
Old Mar 28, 2011, 12:30 PM
  #25  
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There's two balance shafts, one is on the oil pump sprocket, the other is on its own sprocket/belt.

On the balance shaft towards the back of the engine (the one on its own belt) the timing mark never lines up perfectly. when you put the belt on you can line it up either a half notch before the mark or a half notch after, make sure you set it to a half notch before.
Old Mar 29, 2011, 12:57 AM
  #26  
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Alright, Otter, thanks! I'll check to make sure I can get my screwdriver in that balance shaft hole in the block and I'll verify my other balance shaft sprocket is a half tooth early/low. Sucks having the Evo as the DD. Little things like this bug the heck out if me!
I'll let you know how it turns out this weekend.

Last edited by EvoNvee; Apr 6, 2011 at 12:57 AM.
Old Apr 6, 2011, 01:10 AM
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Viola!
I did what I said I was going to and everything is back to normal!

To anyone encountering this vibration, heed otter's advice and make sure your rear balance shaft gear mark is a half tooth low/counterclockwise to its reference mark. Also, make sure that the front balance shaft/oil pump gear is in the proper position.
Both of mine were off (Rear gear was half tooth high and front gear lined up, but didn't allow the screwdriver to pass through the plug hole).
If you cant stick your screwdriver in the cylinder block plug hole as far as you need to (~60mm) and your oil pump gear lines up with its reference marks (like mine did), then you need to rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you encounter TDC again. Make sure the oil pump gear and all other gears mate with their marks and stick the screwdriver in again.
Repeat if need be.
I have pics of everything if anyone needs them. I might post them up anyway in the near future. Thanks everyone!

-Boot

Last edited by EvoNvee; Apr 6, 2011 at 01:17 AM.
Old May 3, 2011, 03:43 PM
  #28  
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I just did mine a couple of weeks ago and everything went fine except for a slight grinding noise coming off from where the alternator/ac compressor are. When I bolted everything up I took extra care to follow the service manual; I though I was the idler pulley from the serpentine belt (which sounded like it had a worn ball bearing when it was out) but when I replaced it today, the same noise came back.... I can really notice it at idle, especially when the engine is up to temperature and I'd record it but I have no access to a video camera Any suggestions?

Edit:

I just went back to recheck the noise...It only happens once the engine is up to temperature and when the AC compressor disengages (although when engaged there's too much fan noise to hear it). Has anyone had any issues with their AC compressor pulley?

Last edited by rdc; May 3, 2011 at 04:17 PM.
Old May 9, 2011, 06:48 AM
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I finally got a chance and took a look under the wheel well. The noise is definitely coming from the crank pulley. I guess I'll have to go the dealer to get it checked.
Old May 9, 2011, 10:03 PM
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Alright so today I went to the dealer and when I swapped the UD pulley for the O.E. damper, part of the noise went away (apparently I noticed that the tensioner had no more room to tense the UD pulley's belt. Anyhow, the mechanic said he could not help me with the worn bearing-like noise, stating that he would have to take every part out until he found the noise, so he advised to just keep using the car as is while keeping an eye on the oil pump...

To fix the lack of tension within the UD pulley belt, I swaped the 72.5" belt for a 72" and even though it was a bit hard to put on, now the tensioner has plenty of room to maintain tension.


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