CrAnSwIcK's 4G69 Build (rebuild)
#62
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From: Ontario, Canada
i wouldn't know, but i mean, i dropped it off, he did the work, and i had to pay him, is there a suggested price for **** like that, i've heard anywhere from 35-75$...100$ was a bit shocking for me, but oh well, my pockets are getting accustomed to being empty these days...not to mention i lost 4 bundles worth of shingles off my roof last week from the wind we had...
so a little bit of an update, i got the front of the motor apart today, and removed the thrashed timing belt, as well as the balance shaft belt, which didn't show signs of tooth wear, but had quite a bit of cracking...the timing belt was actuall missing a bunch of teeth in two places, so i guess at some point there was a spot on the belt that was missing teeth, but had just enough to make the trip around the crank sprocket, lol, cause the part that actually led to the failure was almost the other side of the belt...i'll post pics tomorrow probably...
any ways here's some pics i wanted to save for the finally, but it turned out so well i want to show it off...
Flat BBQ black header
some might not like the black, but i though it would look cool with the plug/fuel rail cover....
so a little bit of an update, i got the front of the motor apart today, and removed the thrashed timing belt, as well as the balance shaft belt, which didn't show signs of tooth wear, but had quite a bit of cracking...the timing belt was actuall missing a bunch of teeth in two places, so i guess at some point there was a spot on the belt that was missing teeth, but had just enough to make the trip around the crank sprocket, lol, cause the part that actually led to the failure was almost the other side of the belt...i'll post pics tomorrow probably...
any ways here's some pics i wanted to save for the finally, but it turned out so well i want to show it off...
Flat BBQ black header
some might not like the black, but i though it would look cool with the plug/fuel rail cover....
#63
Hmmm I painted my header black a few years ago with some high heat paint and it evaporated off once it was heated keep us posted on how it goes.
As for the cover , I think it looks a little odd, but once it's installed with the plastic cover it will look uniform. Keep it up , and keep the pics coming
As for the cover , I think it looks a little odd, but once it's installed with the plastic cover it will look uniform. Keep it up , and keep the pics coming
#64
Garrett, this another weekend that my time is all spoken for, I can't escape... would have loved to be around while you're doing the build... let me know if you are working on it next weekend I am free both days then to watch/help/drink (wife is out-of-province), and if you need anything done at the shop it's no problem.
#67
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From: Ontario, Canada
yeah, the car's in the driveway where CAA dropped it off...hasn't moved since it broke down...i'm doing all the work myself, even the transmission, i have a guy helping me with that because he knows what he's doing, but he's basically supervising me, so i can learn for myself, showing me all the little tricks, and things to check for along the way...i've done lots of clutches but this is my first time cracking a transmission open...the timing belt is not hard at all, one thing to remember though when taking the lower cover off, make sure you take the idler pulley for the drive belt, and the water pump pulley off first...and the nut near the crank is a sensor so be gentle with that...once that's off you just pull the auto tensioner and the belt comes out...
#68
i wouldn't know, but i mean, i dropped it off, he did the work, and i had to pay him, is there a suggested price for **** like that, i've heard anywhere from 35-75$...100$ was a bit shocking for me, but oh well, my pockets are getting accustomed to being empty these days...not to mention i lost 4 bundles worth of shingles off my roof last week from the wind we had...
so a little bit of an update, i got the front of the motor apart today, and removed the thrashed timing belt, as well as the balance shaft belt, which didn't show signs of tooth wear, but had quite a bit of cracking...the timing belt was actuall missing a bunch of teeth in two places, so i guess at some point there was a spot on the belt that was missing teeth, but had just enough to make the trip around the crank sprocket, lol, cause the part that actually led to the failure was almost the other side of the belt...i'll post pics tomorrow probably...
any ways here's some pics i wanted to save for the finally, but it turned out so well i want to show it off...
Flat BBQ black header
some might not like the black, but i though it would look cool with the plug/fuel rail cover....
so a little bit of an update, i got the front of the motor apart today, and removed the thrashed timing belt, as well as the balance shaft belt, which didn't show signs of tooth wear, but had quite a bit of cracking...the timing belt was actuall missing a bunch of teeth in two places, so i guess at some point there was a spot on the belt that was missing teeth, but had just enough to make the trip around the crank sprocket, lol, cause the part that actually led to the failure was almost the other side of the belt...i'll post pics tomorrow probably...
any ways here's some pics i wanted to save for the finally, but it turned out so well i want to show it off...
Flat BBQ black header
some might not like the black, but i though it would look cool with the plug/fuel rail cover....
#69
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From: Ontario, Canada
Ok, haven't posted in my own thread for a while, but then not much has happened since then...so the car is in the driveway. If it rains i don't work on it, i'm only home on weekends, you get the idea.
My transmission is back together, none of my gears were damaged at all, my 3rd gear was notchy and grinding, but upon inspection, the 3rd gear synchro was not worn beyond specification, but i replaced it anyway cause i ordered it, and i also replaced all oil seals and bearings in the transmission on both shafts as well, and will be using a genuine mitsu throw out bearing on the ACT clutch, so i'll let you guys know how it feels, and if my transmission noises stop.
So i got all my parts on friday, complete gasket set, valve stem seals, camshaft seal, head gasket, both manifolds, the works, so i put the head back together...little hint for the valve stem seals, a 10mm socket on a 2" extension, and a medium sized mallet works to press them on. So, the head is back together, i did run into some problems though, I think my head has been apart before, or the M8 bolts that hold the intake rocker arm shaft down are very weak, they would not reach the specified torque and i broke one before realizing they were stretching. A suitable replacement is M8x1.25x40 class 10.9 (grade 8)...use at you're own discretion, i'm going to try it, but i recommend genuine mitsubishi. part# MN128938
I got some goodies waiting, like BLOX engine roll stopper, and 4203 ARP head studs.
And then i ran into something tragic, but i'm glad i did...remember the 100$ act stage1 clutch kit? well, although the pressure plate was not used, the vacuum sealed plastic had torn, and the face of the pressure plate had quite a bit of corrosion (pics to follow) so i rub it down by hand but it had penetrated the surface slightly, so it's also made a trip to the machine shop. so my 100$ clutch just turned into a 160$ clutch, but who's complaining.
So all in all, i should be able to have her running in two weeks, if the weather is nice. But if i were to do it again i would have definately cleaned out the garage and put the car in there if i knew the parts were going to take this long to arrive, cause i honestly figured, a week for parts and two weekends of work should do it, and it would have.
Sorry if i don't have pics of all the goodies and upgrades/replacements, but in a mad rush to get this all wrapped up, i forget to take pics
enjoy some pics, nothing too exciting, sorry
The culprit:
Fun stuff:
Rusty Clutch Pressure Plate
Got most of it off with penetrant and scotch brite, but still requires machine work
My transmission is back together, none of my gears were damaged at all, my 3rd gear was notchy and grinding, but upon inspection, the 3rd gear synchro was not worn beyond specification, but i replaced it anyway cause i ordered it, and i also replaced all oil seals and bearings in the transmission on both shafts as well, and will be using a genuine mitsu throw out bearing on the ACT clutch, so i'll let you guys know how it feels, and if my transmission noises stop.
So i got all my parts on friday, complete gasket set, valve stem seals, camshaft seal, head gasket, both manifolds, the works, so i put the head back together...little hint for the valve stem seals, a 10mm socket on a 2" extension, and a medium sized mallet works to press them on. So, the head is back together, i did run into some problems though, I think my head has been apart before, or the M8 bolts that hold the intake rocker arm shaft down are very weak, they would not reach the specified torque and i broke one before realizing they were stretching. A suitable replacement is M8x1.25x40 class 10.9 (grade 8)...use at you're own discretion, i'm going to try it, but i recommend genuine mitsubishi. part# MN128938
I got some goodies waiting, like BLOX engine roll stopper, and 4203 ARP head studs.
And then i ran into something tragic, but i'm glad i did...remember the 100$ act stage1 clutch kit? well, although the pressure plate was not used, the vacuum sealed plastic had torn, and the face of the pressure plate had quite a bit of corrosion (pics to follow) so i rub it down by hand but it had penetrated the surface slightly, so it's also made a trip to the machine shop. so my 100$ clutch just turned into a 160$ clutch, but who's complaining.
So all in all, i should be able to have her running in two weeks, if the weather is nice. But if i were to do it again i would have definately cleaned out the garage and put the car in there if i knew the parts were going to take this long to arrive, cause i honestly figured, a week for parts and two weekends of work should do it, and it would have.
Sorry if i don't have pics of all the goodies and upgrades/replacements, but in a mad rush to get this all wrapped up, i forget to take pics
enjoy some pics, nothing too exciting, sorry
The culprit:
Fun stuff:
Rusty Clutch Pressure Plate
Got most of it off with penetrant and scotch brite, but still requires machine work
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; May 16, 2011 at 08:15 PM.
#70
Nice to see an update. I changed the clutch on my recently and used an ACT 50/50 clutch disk with OEM presure plate(Daikin/Exedy). Went this way because I know a lot of people that have had their clutch master cylinder go out on these set ups( I know 3). The ACT 50/50 feels great aside from a bit of clutch chatter i get from time to time. Also i got the BLOX roll stopper but havent installed it yet :P
Waiting to see you get all those goodies installed
Waiting to see you get all those goodies installed
#71
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From: Ontario, Canada
I also heard bad things happen with the ACT pressure plate, but for $100 for pressure plate and disc was too good to pass up. Was the same guy that sold me the Quaife LSD for $350, so i was very lucky to find these parts, i was not confident using an OEM pressure plate as i will be installing a turbo in the near future, and i would rather rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder, than to pull the transmission out again, to replace a slipping clutch.
#72
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From: Ontario, Canada
Well, i got some work done today, head is back on, timing belts are on, still have to make some adjustments to the tension, before i put the accessory belt and pulleys back on, but it is timed, and all is well there, transmission has been done for a while, still waiting on the plastic cap, and rear transmission mount.