Notices
04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Air/fuel issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 27, 2012, 08:40 AM
  #1  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Air/fuel issue

About a year and a half ago I insalled an Autometer A/F Guage (narrowband) in my RA. Up untill a few days ago it's been functioning normally (red, lean-orange, stoich-green, rich and back untill you hit the gas then it shoots into the green and stays on hard accel.)...I've noticed however within the past few days that it now only goes into the orange (stoich) about half way, and NEVER into the green (rich) range, even with my foot to the floor.

What should I start checking into before I get thinking about the O2? Ait filter is clean, plugs were changed, oil was changed about 2000 KM ago.
Old Feb 27, 2012, 11:41 AM
  #2  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (89)
 
Ralliartize It's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,073
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
if I'm reading this correctly, you replaced your OEM front o2 (narrowband) sensor with the Autometer narrowband sensor?
Old Feb 27, 2012, 11:58 AM
  #3  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No... the autometer Narrowband guage runs off your OEM o2.
Old Feb 27, 2012, 01:30 PM
  #4  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,472
Received 89 Likes on 86 Posts
i don't know how accurate it is...but lean is good, and beyond stoich is pushing it...rich is bad, just not as bad as past stoich...

get a wide band...
Old Feb 27, 2012, 02:20 PM
  #5  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok, obvious and possibly stupid question. What is the exact benefit of a wideband if you're not boosted?
Old Feb 28, 2012, 05:57 AM
  #6  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,472
Received 89 Likes on 86 Posts
it gives you more accurate AFR, and doesn't bounce around as much...just as an example (this is not actually how it works) for simplicity, let's say 0 volts is 10:1 and 5v is 15:1 a narrow band might be able to output 1v increments, where as a wideband may be able to show you .2v increments...JUST an example!!

so basically you can take a wideband's reading as 3 feet left of first base, as viewed from home plate, where a narrow band is just in the ballpark...

a wideband is not just used for boosted applications, it's actually only really needed for tuning, but is a good thing to have mainly because AFR becomes much more important for the survival of your motor when you're running boost, but it's not to say you won't encounter dangerously lean AFR's and knocking when naturally aspirated either...

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Feb 28, 2012 at 05:59 AM.
Old Feb 28, 2012, 06:29 AM
  #7  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok. Thanks for the explanation. Now, do you remove the oem sensor for the wideband one, or add a bung for it and have 3 sensors? (pre/post cat and the wideband)
Old Feb 28, 2012, 10:30 AM
  #8  
Evolving Member
iTrader: (4)
 
nerdbotSKRA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Regina, SK
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I know some people will replace the stock o2 sensor, but I would (and have) weld in a third bung, pre cat, unless your worried about throwing a CEL (then again I'm not sure if the wideband can replace the bank 1 o2 sensor or not)

To the best of my knowledge the wideband will only measure your AFR for your performance purposes, the oem o2 sensors will also be paying attention to the air, fuel, and every other trace chemical in your emissions to monitor your engine to make sure it's running proper. It's best IMO to have the wideband separate from the car's ECU.
Old Feb 28, 2012, 11:02 AM
  #9  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That's whats I was thinking...if you weld in a 3rd bung and run it apart from the oem system I won't throw a code, but still be able to give a good reading
Old Feb 28, 2012, 01:12 PM
  #10  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,472
Received 89 Likes on 86 Posts
that's what i would do, though there are some wideband sensors on the market that have the wideband connection, and a seperate narrowband output for the ECU, but if you just pick up a regular LSU 4.2 sensor or whatever, just have a 3rd bung welded in pre cat...
Old Feb 28, 2012, 01:28 PM
  #11  
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (22)
 
roblaza's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Barrie, ON
Posts: 839
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
10-4. I'll start pulling pennies together for a wideband. I like to know what's going on with my car. Lol I broke the oil pressure sender for my prosport guage and have to replace that aswell. I don't want to run the filter adapter plate anymore though. I have some figuring to do.
Old Feb 28, 2012, 08:56 PM
  #12  
Evolved Member
iTrader: (5)
 
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 7,472
Received 89 Likes on 86 Posts
use that adapter i'm using for my sender and oil feed...

my sender also stopped working...i think because they are mechanical and obviously not very robust, engine vibration tends to kill them...glowshift sent me a new one for free...
Old Apr 3, 2012, 12:59 PM
  #13  
Newbie
 
Tamez10's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Michigan, US
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did you solve this problem??

There are certain factors that can affect, but when at WOT the Narrowband should go green and it's not bad, its good for the car since Richer AFR's give faster burning and cooler exhaust temperatures, preventing knock.

I would do some things on your car starting for the intake, did you modified the stock intake and replaced it with a different diameter near the maf?? if it's so, when at WOT your car runs at open loop and depends on airflow that MAF is reading, so I think you might have changed the diameter for a bigger one? If you changed it even slightly bigger, then it reads a slower airflow, meaning "less" air is entering. this means injectors think there is less air, they inject less fuel and O2 reads leaner AFR

2. Check Fuel pressure/ clean injectors.. Cleaning injectors is easy, not expensive (about 5 to 10 dlls each) and may be the cause of your problem. A stuck injector might not have a fuel flow correctly thus giving less flow than needed.

3. Change Gas station.. Here in mexico there is known that some gas stations pour water into the gasoline mix. try the best gas though you don't need it, sometimes it may help. and don't let the gas meter go below 1/4. Friend of mine happened that having almost no gas and doing fast hard turns got the pump with no gas and the engine shut down. get gas and be sure to tighten the gas cap since atmosferic pressure at gas tank may become in gas pressure loss and P0171 codes, the cap says that warning.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
nicolassabra
ECU Flash
5
Jun 7, 2013 06:01 PM
03chi-town0Z
Evo X Engine Management / Tuning Forums
34
Mar 20, 2013 11:21 AM
TheeVOoNE
AEM EMS
3
Dec 20, 2009 08:03 AM
shadow1
ECU Flash
3
Apr 23, 2009 04:50 AM
Ludikraut
ECU Flash
29
Jun 6, 2008 10:28 PM



Quick Reply: Air/fuel issue



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:55 AM.