View Poll Results: Should I replace the Clutch Master Cylinder
Yes, with stock Ralliart aftermarket
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No, try something else (please post below)
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Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll
Clutch Master Cylinder on it's way out?
#32
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I don't feel like buying another gallon of brake fluid.... I bled it till no air came out, that took about a 2 liters of fluid. Then I reverse bled it so that gravity helps any last air bubbles to come out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
Skip to 3:12 if you wanna get to the main content I'm talking about. No air came out using this method.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
Skip to 3:12 if you wanna get to the main content I'm talking about. No air came out using this method.
#33
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Your not supposed to pump the clutch and expect it to get air out... You have to open the bleeder while it's pressed down than close it so no air goes in from the bleeder it's a sealed system so it doesn't get pushed back and forth like he said it gets pushed farther down the line than stops cause it can't pull air from anywhere.. But I assume you did it right... I would think the reverse bleed messed you up cause there's more places that air can get trap in the master cylinder than the line.. This is real interesting Can't really help you out further unless the car is in front of me.. After reading the link I guess it could be a piece of a spring stuck in between
#34
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Your not supposed to pump the clutch and expect it to get air out... You have to open the bleeder while it's pressed down than close it so no air goes in from the bleeder it's a sealed system so it doesn't get pushed back and forth like he said it gets pushed farther down the line than stops cause it can't pull air from anywhere.. But I assume you did it right... I would think the reverse bleed messed you up cause there's more places that air can get trap in the master cylinder than the line.. This is real interesting Can't really help you out further unless the car is in front of me.. After reading the link I guess it could be a piece of a spring stuck in between
1. I got my partner to press the clutch petal down,
2. Open the bleeder
3. Close the bleeder
4. tell my partner to slowly let go of the clutch pedal
5. wait 5 seconds
6. repeat steps 1-5
If there was air in the line, wouldn't it cause the engagement/friction zone of the clutch pedal to start near the bottom of the clutch pedal travel since you have to compress the air then fluid before you get any action? meaning you have to press the clutch pedal more?
My engagement/friction zone is way at the top of the pedal travel. I can push it probably 3 inches and it would be fully disengaged. When I let the clutch out to start moving it will start to grab right at the top of the clutch pedal travel.
Edit: kind of related but not really. I made a how to on cleaning my reservoir (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...l#post10187547). I cleaned it before I put the new MC and SC in. I will post up the dissection of the MC and SC later.
Last edited by Canada_Comp; May 26, 2012 at 01:36 PM.
#35
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My dissection of the master and slave writeup is done: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...intensive.html
#36
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Confirmed for broken clutch spring. I had this happen to me on my Crapalier. Sometimes, it was nearly impossible to change gears, then it would fix itself and run fine for a random period of time. After splitting the tranny we saw the loose spring.
#39
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It's just really random that it fails... who's having the problems?
#44
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Had another bout of failure today, during rush hour of all times... I'm tired of this.. so I decided to let the clutch burn a little. It went away after I got up to a steady 60km/h for a few minutes and higher RPM.
I will be dropping the tranny and putting in the stock old one after the canuck long weekend. will keep you updated on wtf is going on...
I will be dropping the tranny and putting in the stock old one after the canuck long weekend. will keep you updated on wtf is going on...