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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)
View Poll Results: Should I replace the Clutch Master Cylinder
Yes, with stock Ralliart OEM
25.00%
Yes, with Evo8 OEM
33.33%
Yes, with stock Ralliart aftermarket
0
0%
Yes, with Evo8 aftermarket
25.00%
No, try bleeding that thing like no tomorrow
8.33%
No, try something else (please post below)
0
0%
I don't know... why are we here?
16.67%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

Clutch Master Cylinder on it's way out?

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Old May 25, 2012, 07:04 PM
  #31  
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bleed it more...
Old May 26, 2012, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
bleed it more...
I don't feel like buying another gallon of brake fluid.... I bled it till no air came out, that took about a 2 liters of fluid. Then I reverse bled it so that gravity helps any last air bubbles to come out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

Skip to 3:12 if you wanna get to the main content I'm talking about. No air came out using this method.
Old May 26, 2012, 08:36 AM
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Your not supposed to pump the clutch and expect it to get air out... You have to open the bleeder while it's pressed down than close it so no air goes in from the bleeder it's a sealed system so it doesn't get pushed back and forth like he said it gets pushed farther down the line than stops cause it can't pull air from anywhere.. But I assume you did it right... I would think the reverse bleed messed you up cause there's more places that air can get trap in the master cylinder than the line.. This is real interesting Can't really help you out further unless the car is in front of me.. After reading the link I guess it could be a piece of a spring stuck in between
Old May 26, 2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
Your not supposed to pump the clutch and expect it to get air out... You have to open the bleeder while it's pressed down than close it so no air goes in from the bleeder it's a sealed system so it doesn't get pushed back and forth like he said it gets pushed farther down the line than stops cause it can't pull air from anywhere.. But I assume you did it right... I would think the reverse bleed messed you up cause there's more places that air can get trap in the master cylinder than the line.. This is real interesting Can't really help you out further unless the car is in front of me.. After reading the link I guess it could be a piece of a spring stuck in between
I didn't pump the clutch though. what I did was:

1. I got my partner to press the clutch petal down,
2. Open the bleeder
3. Close the bleeder
4. tell my partner to slowly let go of the clutch pedal
5. wait 5 seconds
6. repeat steps 1-5

If there was air in the line, wouldn't it cause the engagement/friction zone of the clutch pedal to start near the bottom of the clutch pedal travel since you have to compress the air then fluid before you get any action? meaning you have to press the clutch pedal more?

My engagement/friction zone is way at the top of the pedal travel. I can push it probably 3 inches and it would be fully disengaged. When I let the clutch out to start moving it will start to grab right at the top of the clutch pedal travel.

Edit: kind of related but not really. I made a how to on cleaning my reservoir (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...l#post10187547). I cleaned it before I put the new MC and SC in. I will post up the dissection of the MC and SC later.

Last edited by Canada_Comp; May 26, 2012 at 01:36 PM.
Old May 26, 2012, 09:39 PM
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My dissection of the master and slave writeup is done: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...intensive.html
Old May 28, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Confirmed for broken clutch spring. I had this happen to me on my Crapalier. Sometimes, it was nearly impossible to change gears, then it would fix itself and run fine for a random period of time. After splitting the tranny we saw the loose spring.
Old May 28, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by xmaster19
Confirmed for broken clutch spring. I had this happen to me on my Crapalier. Sometimes, it was nearly impossible to change gears, then it would fix itself and run fine for a random period of time. After splitting the tranny we saw the loose spring.
Thanks for the info! I guess I will have to drop the tranny then... Hopefully if I put in a long day I can finish it in a day
Old Jun 12, 2012, 12:45 PM
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Was the spring confirmed? We have another member with a similar problem..
Old Jun 12, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
Was the spring confirmed? We have another member with a similar problem..
I haven't had time to drop the tranny to check... but it is working okay right now... and has been fine for the past 22 days and going since the failure on May 21.

It's just really random that it fails... who's having the problems?
Old Jun 12, 2012, 06:32 PM
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Another newbie he made a new thread
Old Jun 12, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
Another newbie he made a new thread
oops, yeah I saw it. I'll post up this pic so I people can refer to it.

It's the inlet location to the reservoir for the clutch, it's at the very top and the reservoir has to be overfilled for it to be filled

Attached Thumbnails Clutch Master Cylinder on it's way out?-img_1632x.jpg  
Old Jun 13, 2012, 08:43 PM
  #42  
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I could have swore I posted that it had to be filled to the very top for it to drain to the CMC but I can't find it maybe another thread
Old Jun 13, 2012, 09:29 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
I could have swore I posted that it had to be filled to the very top for it to drain to the CMC but I can't find it maybe another thread
No worries, I remember you saying it too... It's somewhere, but there's a pic for people to reference why.
Old Jun 26, 2012, 10:55 PM
  #44  
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Had another bout of failure today, during rush hour of all times... I'm tired of this.. so I decided to let the clutch burn a little. It went away after I got up to a steady 60km/h for a few minutes and higher RPM.

I will be dropping the tranny and putting in the stock old one after the canuck long weekend. will keep you updated on wtf is going on...
Old Jun 27, 2012, 08:15 AM
  #45  
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have you tried reinstalling the stock lines with the modulator? i've had my ACT 2100 pressure plate in for like 50,000km with all stock original parts now at 202,000km...no problems...


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