RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

so i did a full rebuild apart from changing the gears and the needle bearings, found that my 2nd gear synchro selector was worn as well as the mating dog teeth on 2nd gear wich i dremled to a sharp point again (probably because of the grinding a few times since it never wanted to go into gear), anyways did the full build everything went together ok, been driving it for a week and slowly just got worse again.

i haven't grinded or hit any gear really hard just seems like their is soemthing stopping me from going into 2nd, R and sometimes 3rd, doesnt make a difference driving or just sitting their clutch in going through the gears.

i put my Aluminum ams tranny bushings back on makes it a bit better but still seems like im really forcing her into those gears 60% of the time i will also add that every gear seems a bit resistant more so then when i first got the ralliart but not as bad as the 3 gears listed.

so im wondering if it could be the cables maybe their bad or just stretching, seized a bit when i try and shift i really have no idea anymore.

i do have a TWM short shifter installed but i dont think its the problem, as well as the ams under hood bushing and the aluminum shifter housing bushings for inside the car.

any ideas anyone??

roblaza

iTrader: (22)

When I got my synchros done, I had the same issue. The dealership that performed the work just said that it would take a little time to break the new parts in. Mine now shifts fine unless it's cold (below freezing). Give it a couple weeks

Canada_Comp

iTrader: (1)

does it make a difference if the engine is on or off? try engine off and clutch in and see if you can shift through the gears easier than if the engine is on and the clutch in. If so, then your clutch isn't disengaging completely and causing the synchro to spin continuously without synchronizing the speed with the gear, and making it near impossible to get it in.

If that is the case, check for leaks on the hydraulics and my thread here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...s-way-out.html
check the inside under the dash, the master cylinder in the engine compartment, the hoses and lines, and the slave cylinder (check under the boot like RacerX-Ralliart suggested to me. mine was leaking there) If it all seems okay, try bleeding the system, because the clutch takes a lot of fluid to bleed...

leads me to suspect clutch not disengaging all the way

I have the shortshifter and bustings as well, so I doubt it's the problem

keep us updated! good luck!

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

so i found this as well which says the clutch may not be disengaging if its blocking my gears,

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-break-in.html

im wondering how can i fix this problem, ive heard about taking tranny off and shiming the clutch fork pivot ball if i recall but that seems like a lot of work again....

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

as to your first question moving or stopped with engine on or off doesnt make a difference sometiems its good sometimes its bad, would the clutch not dissengaging happen in every gear and all the time?? or could it be like my problem here only sometimes it occurs??

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

Rob, you can shim the clutch fork fulcrum, or you may be able to extend the slave cylinder push rod...

i'm starting to wonder about clutch and cables myself, because after a few months after my rebuild 3rd started grinding again at high rpm...

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

how do i extend the slave cylinder push road? and do u think rob could be right since this only happens periodically?

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

What tranny fluid are you guys using? If it's not Mitsu stuff and has no modifier to make things not so slippery then you eventually get grinding gears.

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

im using an ams oil synchro mesh synthetic that fit the mitsu requirments

Canada_Comp

iTrader: (1)

how many km do you have on your car? I thought shimming the pivot is only for a certain aftermarket clutch? I don't think it should be that worn

and yes, which fluid are you using?

Edit #1: you posted what fluid you are using before i could post mine. haha

I've had bad luck with amsoil in the trannys. I've tried MTG 75W90, and MTF synchomesh. amsoil MTF was better than MTG, but it still sucked... even though amsoil meets the mitsubishi requirements, it's not good in terms of not being so slippery so the synchros can work.

I wore out my 3rd gear using amsoil MTG in 20000 km....

I am using motul right now... expensive stuff, but better than amsoil in the tranny. next I am going to try "GM synchromesh friction modified"

Edit #2: I also found that temperature affects the shifting as well, if the tranny is cold its definitely harder to get in.

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

car is 95000 kms and the tranny i just did the build and has been driven maybe 300kms, i would think if it was the slave then i wouldnt hardly shift at all and the clutch pedal would feel bad which it doesnt..

Edit 1: brand new clutch as well oem replacement exedy, left the pivot ball and everythign where it was didnt remove it

edit 2: if the car does infact improve then in say 2000 km i will drian the fluid and go for either the gm synchro mesh,motul?, or the redline mt90, or oem

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

is there a way i can make the clutch release more without the shimming the pivot method?

edit 1 -sorry for spam on my half jsut wanna sort this out so i know which way im going with everything...
- im thinking its a cross between clutch not disengaging as well as wear in period.... my problem with both is 1 the not going into gear sometimes make s me lean towards the clutch problem, 2 the fact that it happens periodically and not in every gear makes me lean towards break in

edit 2: slave looks good a lil oil in the boot but that was from when i pushed the clutch in over the winter without the tranny on it, master looks good not a drop of anything anywhere and the brake fluid levels are appropriate so

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Bleed your clutch for 1/2 an hour to be thorough and sure, I once spent a full hour on a friggin Nissan Maxima clutch before it worked properly.

I cannot stress how critical proper fluid is for the tranny. My VW's work fine with any aftermarket fluid. My Subaru's always grinded gears unless I used old-school cheapo dino tranny fluid or GM synchro-mesh; Amsoil and other synthetics caused the gears to not mesh when shifting, it was horrible. From all the comments on this forum over the years about RA gear grinding problems using synthetic tranny fluids, it's better to go with genuine Mitsu oil. This is not the same situation as engine oil where anything goes!

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

There is an adjustment at the pedal.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

oh yeah! good call, buddy!

rob, refer to the manual...