waterlooLancer

Hi:
I've been driving manuals for a while, however I am struggling trying to shift smoothly on a 2006 Lancer Ralliart. I'm ok shifting into first and second. However the biggest problem is shifting from second to third. I feel that the shift is not as smooth as it should be. The car feels as though it bumps forward. I have tried letting go of the clutch slower than usual and it has resulted in better shifts some times, but not always. Also, during normal driving I have the tendency to shift to higher gear at lower RPM's (around 3k) for fuel efficiency. If I shift from second to third at around 4K the shift is smoother but still not as smooth as I think it should be.

Is it just me not used to higher bite point of the clutch and it would come with time? (it feels like the bite point is way higher on the vehicle compared to other manuals I have driven) or should I be investigating something else? Any tips/suggestions I can try?

Thanks!

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

4k is a fairly high shift....but you might want to look at your front and rear engine mounts...

mp72

I don’t drive a 2006 Ralliart, but I can give you some info on shifting.

First thing to mention is RPM range really doesn’t effect fuel efficiency. What effects fuel efficiency is how far down you press the gas pedal. If you build RPM’s slowly and shift at a higher RPM it really has no difference in fuel consumption than if you shifted at lower RPM’s. It’s all about the gas peddle and how much you get on it.

I drive an Evo X and when I’m lumping along in traffic, I find that the smoothest gear changes are when I bring the RPM’s slightly over 4k. Basically I build RPM’s slowly and shift over 4k.

A 4 cylinder turbo car wants to rev high. I'm no expert, but in my experience high RPM’s is where the smoothest gear changes happen when I'm lumping along in traffic.

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

I would consider a trans flush if you don't know when the last one was done. These cars can be a bit notchy when it's cold. Also you might have some worn syncros or something of that nature.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Get a heavy shift knob from Ziggy in Hamilton, ON, he makes them: https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/home.php?cat=311

This did it for me, makes the shifts complete. no resistance to engaging gears at all.

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

If you find that the clutch engages at a higher pedal position than what you like, there is an adjustment at the pedal that can help this.

waterlooLancer

Any DIY instructions on how to make the adjustment? That would be perfect! I would much rather prefer lower bite point.

Thanks for the rest of the tips as well! I am getting a weighted shift knob (mainly for aesthetics :-) ). I'll look into tranny flush as well.

Does anyone know if synchros are covered in 160K powertrain warranty? And if the dealership would even diagnose it for free?

Thanks!

stockley1234

iTrader: (1)

Synchros are covered by the 160K; I had them done. As far as diagnosis, it is a hit and miss. If synchros are the problem then it is covered, if they are not the problem, then it is on you. From what I am hearing, it is not the synchros because your not having any grinding issues. Until you have a major problem like grinding every single time you shift from a certain gear to another, then I wouldn't get the synchros looked at.

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

Get nice & low under the dashboard then find the clutch pedal. There will be a threaded rod with a lock nut on it I believe. Loosen that so you can adjust. One way will be higher, another lower, not terribly clever stuff.

One of the Rob's on here was just fiddling with his so he can tell you better. Last time I touched mine was in 2007.

WOW ! This year will be 5 years my car and I were together. I need to plan something great for our anniversary.

waterlooLancer

Is that a safe adjustment? I see other forums littered with comments saying this adjustment is not possible. Just wondering what I would be getting myself into.

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

September will be 5 years that I adjusted mine to engage lower to suit my personal preference.
I am at 118 700km now.
Your call.
BTW, do you believe everything you read on internet forums ???

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

i was told by two dealer ships, and later confirmed by Mitsubishi Canada during a phone call the same day, that synchros are a "wear item" much like brake pads, and that grinding/shifting issues are only covered if cause by a manufacturer's defect, not worn synchros, but they can't do anything until the transmission is out of the car and taken apart, in other words several hours labour and a bunch ridiculously over-priced oil seals later...then you have to either pay them to get your car back and assemble pieces on your own, and towing the car else where at your own cost, or pay them whatever they feel like charging you to either put it back together broken, or repair then reassemble...i fought for over a month with mitsubishi over this, and they couldn't give me a straight answer...i ended up rebuilding it myself...

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Yes the dreaded stealership, I've contemplated going there to attempt to get the tob problem fixed under warrantee but I think they will say I raced it or whatever and tell me I have to pay 90 bucks for an inspection :rollseyes:

Cranswick wanna see Miami and do some transmission work, I mean since you've got it down to a science and this will be my first time dropping the transmission

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

lol, no can do, you'll have to mail it to me...lol, i'll be in Charleston, SC this fall for a few months, but it's for a course, so i'd be busy, and it's a 10 hour drive from Miami.

waterlooLancer

Thanks for the tips! I'll give it another couple of weeks and if I still can't get used to it, I'll adjust the pedal.