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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

To seafoam or not to seafoam, that is the question, 06 Ralliart

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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 02:40 PM
  #16  
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I don't there will be any change until you do your valve adjustment , that is terrible it almost sounds like a knock.
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 02:51 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
I don't there will be any change until you do your valve adjustment , that is terrible it almost sounds like a knock.

You're telling me, I have the necessary tools to do the adjustment. But I'm too nervouse to -_-

Edit: regarding doing the valve adjustment, off topic I know sorry, but after I pull off the head, I can remove the plugs put in a wrench to find TDC once the wrench moves to its peak? And if I could do I have to do 1,4 turn the timing a full rotation then 3,4 and good?

Last edited by MarkChamorro; Jun 29, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #18  
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That's ridiculously loud for the valves... are you sure you're not knocking?
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:28 PM
  #19  
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I know for a fact it's valve adjustment because it happened after (stupid decision) a "friend" said he could adjust valves and it could be done cold. And wouldn't knock throw cel? I have no CEL light
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #20  
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It depends, factory knock sensors generally suck, they are usually not super sensitive.
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
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Hmm, well I want to do the adjustment my self, just the DIY guide on here leaves me it's questions and I don't like being unsure about something if I have to do it..rather understand 100% before taking it on
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #22  
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That's smart, valve adjustments are very easy to screw up so making sure you do it right is very important
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 09:21 PM
  #23  
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Its pretty easy after I figured out what the timing mark looks like on the pulley. Its the little circle on the pulley. Also once I saw the .pdf file that Cranswick posted that showed exactly which valves to adjust on each cycle, it was way way way more simpler. Also I had to do it about 5 times over and over until I got it right. It was my first major engine tuning ever so if I can do it you can do it.
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 10:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by keithislegit
Its pretty easy after I figured out what the timing mark looks like on the pulley. Its the little circle on the pulley. Also once I saw the .pdf file that Cranswick posted that showed exactly which valves to adjust on each cycle, it was way way way more simpler. Also I had to do it about 5 times over and over until I got it right. It was my first major engine tuning ever so if I can do it you can do it.
Hmm, in that case, crans could I get that PDF unless it's here on the forums
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 10:50 PM
  #25  
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Actually it wasn't Cranswick but here it is https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...ve-lash-6.html its the one posted by Black Rally. Basically once you line up the timing mark on the pulley with the mark on the crank case, you go back up to wiggle the rockers to figure out if you're adjusting the "a" 's or the "b" 's first. I really don't know how simple I could put it. Ha. Let me know if that makes any sense to you. If not pm me, ill send you my number and you can call me whenever you adjust the valves and ill try my best to walk you threw it.

Last edited by keithislegit; Jun 29, 2012 at 10:54 PM.
Old Jun 29, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by keithislegit
Actually it wasn't Cranswick but here it is https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...ve-lash-6.html its the one posted by Black Rally. Basically once you line up the timing mark on the pulley with the mark on the crank case, you go back up to wiggle the rockers to figure out if you're adjusting the "a" 's or the "b" 's first. I really don't know how simple I could put it. Ha. Let me know if that makes any sense to you. If not pm me, ill send you my number and you can call me whenever you adjust the valves and ill try my best to walk you threw it.
Hell yea thanks bro! I'll pm you if anything man
Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:13 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MarkChamorro

That Last bit was for Cranswick to show how my Serp Belt Whines like a Spooling Turbo, but you could barely hear it. And yes
lol...I have that same sound but from my timing belt. One of the tensioners.

BTW....w0000t a red RA...props
Old Jun 30, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by $MIVEC$
lol...I have that same sound but from my timing belt. One of the tensioners.

BTW....w0000t a red RA...props

Lol I like the sound, just hope it's normal
Old Jul 3, 2012 | 08:55 AM
  #29  
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I'm all for DIY on nearly everything except for valve adjustment. My mechanic charges me $20 to do the adjustment. It takes him 15 minutes and everything is whisper quiet. Well worth the money to avoid any mistakes.
Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #30  
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From: digging for oil
Originally Posted by Luckiesralliart
What kind of maintenance could be done to prevent that? I know. Seafoam. Ive never had issues. Thats my 2 cents. :-) anyone else have some input
To prevent intake manifold, intake valves, and throttle body carbon deposites which show in a black cake tot he parts can be avoided by 1. Running premium sytehtics oils that do not vaporate and leave resedues behind. Why do oils vaporate they do all the time when heat in the cylinders appear caused by combustion, this is when oil starts cooking and evaporates and that sticks to the parts over time causing balck gunk.
2. Run a good fuel cleaner through the fuel tank every so often and that will keep your intake valves, top of your pistons and injectors clean. "The Power Foam gives sea foam a run for its money"

Many folks use this every 4-5 months:




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