GraphiteGreyRA

Hello everyone, i've been running an ACT stage 1 HD SS clutch for a little over a year now with the only problem being a blown CMC which I fixed by swapping in one from an EVO. A couple days ago my clutch release fork decided to break on my RA. I'm hoping my release fork broke because it couldn't handle the heavier ACT clutch like my CMC did but I have a sneaking suspicion that its gonna be worse when I drop my tranny. As of right now I'm looking to find a stronger clutch release fork. All I've been able to find online is oem. Anyone have any suggestions or know where I can find a stronger than oem release fork? Weather permitting I'll be dropping my transmission this weekend. I'll post my findings if anything else is wrong. Thanks in advance for any input

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

I highly doubt you will find anything other than oem. Maybe get an oem one treated to have more strength?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

that or take an OEM fork to a machine shop and have them mill one out of a stronger material...

GraphiteGreyRA

Thanks I'm definitely going to look into those options. I don't want to put in another oem just to have it break again. Am I the only one to have this problem? I've been searching online for days and found plenty of broken clutch fork problems (and stronger clutch forks) for EVOs but nothing pertaining to Ralliarts.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

Buy a new stocker, take it and your broken one to a welding shop and ask them to weld on a bit of steel to reinforce the new one according to where the old one broke. Just let them know where, and how thick, reinforcing material can be added so there is no interference with other parts later upon installation ( for example, "it is okay to add 1/8" thick material anywhere at all except this side here"). Experienced welders know by looking just where it is best to add material to strengthen these shapes.

Simple, inexpensive, effective.

And take pics so we can copy your solution!

GraphiteGreyRA

Great idea! That would absolutely be the cheapest way to go. My release fork broke right where the fulcrum ball clip is riveted through the fork. I'm going to order an oem one today when I get off work hopefully it'll be here inside of a week. I'll be sure to post pics of the broken one and modded one.

GraphiteGreyRA

Alright well I dropped my transmission yesterday and thankfully my clutch is fine. Aside from my broken clutch fork it also looks like my release bearing was bad. I gave it a spin and it sounds very gritty. Also, does anyone know the correct name to the sleeve/cover over the input shaft that the release bearing and fork slide back and forth on? This part has some significant wear spots on it too, I'm guessing its from the metal sleeve act bearing I was using. My phone is on the fritz right now but i'm going to try to post photos of my broken release fork. I found something interesting that makes me believe I had a flawed one from the factory.

Disregard my question in this post, I found it. Its called the front bearing retainer. Had to break down and go get one from the dealership

GraphiteGreyRA

Notice the rust inside the break? I'm thinking it had a tiny pinhole flaw in it from the factory and it began to rust inside, compromising the integrity of the metal over time. Also on a side note our clutch forks are made out of a cast metal. I found out it requires special welding equipment to be able to weld an extra piece of steel to it. That means I can't use my dads welder haha. Still shouldn't be a problem for any weld shop though.

GraphiteGreyRA

Also the stud with the rubber boot on my clutch orifice assembly broke (the one that the bottom part of most cai's bolt to) and I was looking to get a clutch line so I can just bypass it altogether. Im going to get an rrm or works clutchline. I'm thinking works since its like 20 bucks cheaper than rrm but I don't want to sacrifice quality. Any suggestions or experiences as to which one is better? Or are they pretty much the same and you're just paying for the name brand?

Nevermind on this post too, just going to go with an rrm clutchline since it'll match my red and grey setup.

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Someone just made a thread about rebranding the oem clutch line to work just like the ss braided clutchline. Should be right near the top.

As for the fork breaking, I know joe broke his but he beat on his car like a redheaded step child with a lisp. I think some cytogenetic treatment would strengthen it while not costing to much. Also make sure that rubber boot is in good shape, I personally think that the tob failures are directly related to water getting in via the fork and just rusting parts from the inside out.

Ralliart367

My clutch fork snapped in my 04 ralliart to. Turned out my problem was I didn't have enough clutch pad left and it pushed to far on the fork and snapped it.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

i doubt that's the cause of a clutch fork snapping in half, you should be able to run the rivets into the flywheel, and still not break clutch forks...

GraphiteGreyRA

Thanks for the tip. Haha i don't think I'm that hard on my car. I drive at a slight to moderate accelerated speed compared to most people. Unless I'm flying up an on ramp to get on the interstate, then its wide open season. I can definitely see how water could get down in there through the fork. My rubber boot is in good condition still. It's not cracked or torn or anything. I'm sure I get extra water exposure underneath my engine though. The plastic underbody panels on my car are all ripped out thanks to a massive ice chunk in the road I slammed into a couple winters ago. I still haven't replaced them, that's probably why I have massive amounts of rust on my oil pan.

GraphiteGreyRA

*Clutch fork update* I talked to someone yesterday about welding an extra piece of metal to my clutch fork. Looks like it would have to be cast on cast welding and it runs a good risk of making it weaker because the metal can crystallize where its being welded. The way the guy talked its a special process to weld to the type of metal our clutch forks are made of. I don't think I'm gonna go down this road. I found a local company where I live that would be able to mill me a new clutch fork out of stronger material. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow or Tuesday, whenever my new clutch fork gets here to get a price quote.

GraphiteGreyRA

I just remembered another issue I have to address for my car. I'm so hell bent on getting my car running again that I forgot about this. For some reason, the same time my clutch fork broke my headlights and one of my fog lights stopped working too. I'm not gonna get into it on this thread but if I can't find one on this issue I'll start a new thread about it