I dont know yet how much matter...that is yet to be determined but my mechanic will let me know soon hopefully. I am using a stage 3 clutch from ACT - is it possible I might have to buy a stage 1 (that is smaller maybe??) so the entire assembly can fit inside the bell housing?

Believe me, you aren't the only one who's pissed off.

 

Ok so the bellhousing is pushed out about 0.25" (the extra width that flywheel is adding). My mechanic thinks there could be some sort of a plate or 'seal' adapter that goes in between the motor and tranny which might push the bellhousing out just enough so that it will fit. Does anybody know what this part might be and if such a thing even exists?? I want to set something on fire.

 

This is clearly the reason why , I have seen these for sale used but in like new condition over the years. It sucks that it took so long before people would post their problems instead of just selling it off to the next poor soul.

 

Ya it's bull**** man - clutchmasters has assured me they manufacture to spec, but I am looking at their flywheel versus stock - the plate where the bolt holes are is way thicker on the clutchmasters vs. stock

 

Crans or Lanzer: if the clutch housing is extended like that with a spacer, what does that affect? Would it shift other things out of alignment?

 

I am thinking one of the motor mounts could be off? My mechanic thought it could affect the starter motor position which might rub against the flywheel. It's tough to say at this point.

Known options we have at this time:

- Don't use the flywheel, machine the stock one and just use that - try to sell the flywheel and make back my money (basically make someone else's life miserable...this isn't a favorable choice)
- Machine down the aluminum flywheel by about 0.25" (where the bolt holes are)
- Have someone fabricate a custom steel adapter for the bellhousing (something like this: http://bmpenterprises.net/blog/2010/...adapter-plate/ and http://majica.net/JNR/Devpics/adapter.JPG)
- Maybe grind down the bellhousing interior but my mechanic thinks this could damage the transmission (gears)
- Dynamite/Fire

Not sure how to proceed, I've only been corresponding with my mechanic by email today, tomorrow I'll visit the shop and can take pictures.

 

1. Machine the stock flywheel and be done.

2. Sell the troublemaker to Cranswick and let him/me dream something up over the ensuing months.

 

if you shim the transmission a lot of stuff won't line up...the starter will still reach the flywheel, cause neither of those are moving.

however a 1/4" is quite a bit, there is some "play room" on the inner CV joint, but you'd be pushing on one, while pulling on the other...maybe take one of the axle nut washers off, and move it to the other side...lol (i kid, don't do that)

pretty sure the input shaft would still reach the clutch disc, but your front and rear mounts won't line up, they are connected to the transmission, shifting linkages won't be affected, but you would need a longer rod on the slave cylinder to disengage the clutch properly.

that's all i can think of...and the crank/flaywheel shims would not make up a 1/4"...you sure the input shaft is in and the dowels are aligned?

 

1. I don't really want to use the stock flywheel; it's in terrible shape and I bought the aluminum flywheel with performance in mind, I don't really to go back to stock if I can help it.

2. we'll see what else we can try.

ya he just said 1/4" and that the clutch cover paint all came off the top, he said it just simply does not fit and he blamed it on the flywheel being too thick.

can i try to machine down the clutchmasters flywheel??

so it sounds like an adapter for the bellhousing is only going to make matters more complicated...so we'll scrap that idea...

i will ask if the input shaft is in/dowels aligned

 

i second this, if you start to push the trans out to allow for the clutch disk to mate properly you have to think about what else your moving, the major things are

1) Mounts the front side and rear will all have there bushing holes off that distance now, the rear is tight enough with the tranny in the proper spot now your moving it over a fairly large amount.

2) Cv shafts as well, you are now stretching the passenger side and compressing the driver side its a small amount but when you think the tolerances that these parts are made so they will fit and function properly your talking a big difference.

3) Would also think that the clutch slave is now in a different location and may not be able to properly extend the pressure plate the proper displacement.

You mentioned that CM has assured you the flywheel is proper, have you told them these new issues? what is there response if they say to machine the fly wheel then something is wrong cause as stated previously R&D isnt that hard when your copying a part already made and changing the design a bit, you should not have to machine a product to fit an application that it is built specifically for.

Does anyone here have or had this product installed if so how did you get it to work and what problems did you have if any??

 

i would love to know what clutch masters has to say about this as well.

 

i'm going to call them and try to get this sorted out. i didn't pay nearly $500 for a flywheel that wasn't even built to the correct spec

 

Ha that's awesome i think i have a new philosophy on life,

When in doubt, have Cranswick buy it and sort it out.

 

I didn't even read this thread but I already know -_-

 

i already did that with control arm bushings, and a turbo manifold...if the price was right i would take a stab at it, but i would like to see don get his money back, cause i wouldn't pay full price for it...

on that thought, i need to update a thread...