doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

Today I went to the garage and had my mechanic unbolt the flywheel so we could do a side-by-side, flat surface comparison. You can see clearly from the pictures that the ride height of the flywheel is way higher on the Clutchmasters one.

I've also attached a picture of where in the bellhousing the clutch cover is rubbing. The crank is pushed all the way in, we are doing nothing wrong it's just terrible R&D and QA on Clutchmaster's part.











I am dealing now with Road Race Motorsports and Clutchmasters and I'll update with what happens next.

EDIT: If you look at the last pic, you can even see the yellow paint chips in the bottom right where the paint was scratched off from the clutch cover

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

lol, what do ya know? it's like a ¼" thicker...lol, and it looks like it's rubbing the inboard output shaft bearing "housing". you don't want to remove material from there, lol

i wonder if it would work only with a clutchmasters clutch...i also wish i could measure my ACT stage 1 for you...at least get an idea of WTF is going on...

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch. Mechanic confirmed that the clutch size is nothing unusual. It's definitely the flywheel man, and ya we are definitely not removing matter from that...mechanic said u'd **** up the tranny

i am just hoping that the rep from clutchmasters sees this thread, sees the pictures and does something about this because it's a lot of money to blow and even more time to waste.

EDIT: btw I see you've reported the hp/torque for your car - how much wheel spin do you experience? is it starting to border on becoming a little too much power for the two front wheels?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

not with slicks

but seriously with street tires, it's not that bad, hackish programs a 2-step launch controller into the ECU program, for the clutch dumps, and when you get used to it, it's very manageable...i also have an LSD, so that helps too...with a good sticky set of street tires, it's just like stock, but faster...

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

good to know. if i ever get this swap finished i'll start shopping around for tires. there's quite a few items left on my shopping list before then, but i think a nice set of tires is a must with all the mods i'm throwing in haha

how long have you been driving with ur turbo - is it still reliable, have you faced any problems?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

not really no...it's been a lot of fun...reliable so far...i did a 6,000km+ road trip with the family, and the car fully loaded with food, and luggage...that was worse on the suspesnion than the motor, and i drive her hard at the track all the time, and it's been solid...

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

great man - no forged pistons or anything that gives the motor some additional strength? would hackish' tune still be available if I were to consider turbo'ing in the future?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

motor's all stock except for the head studs...and hackish has a been tuning for a long time, i don't see why he wouldn't in the future.

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

where'd you get the head studs? how would i have to deal with having my ECU reflashed by Hackish? do I send him the ECU or does he just supply a piggyback?

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

what year ECU do you have? if 2004 you have to mail it in, if 05-06 you can purchase UVtune and a tactrix cable and that includes a base N/A tune...

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

the motor is a 2006, the ECU i'm assuming was from the same car as the motor, but I can't be 100% sure - so I've contacted the seller (auto recycler) and they'll hopefully be able to confirm that for me. Is there a way I can identify what one I have based on appearance alone?

EDIT: The motor and the ECU are both 2006 - so I guess I can do that UVtune/tactrix cable thing...really no idea how to do any of that though haha

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

by the way i also found out that my motor/ecu has on it 95,470km - do you think this is a bit high to be considering turbo?

tranny I believe is 65,000km.

the following are brand new:
- headers/downpipe
- exhaust
- motor mounts
- air intake
- radiator / fans / silicon hoses
- flywheel (if ever this issue gets resolved, that is -__-)
- clutch
- throw out bearing
- all belts and bearings (complete kit) including water-pump
- oil filter
- alternator
- clutch slave cylinder
- exhaust manifold gasket
- brakes / brake lines (wilwood big brake kit)
- suspension (tein basic coilovers)
- control arms, misc bushings
- anti-sway, strut bars, lower tie bar

Any recommendations for what I should add/replace if I am going to consider a turbo kit in the future or is it an unwise choice to begin with? How much an impact did the LSD make?

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

No, I would say it's just right.
When Crans went turbo he was way past that mileage and had recovered the year before from a timing belt episode.

RallyartRob

iTrader: (2)

i can measure my oem one for you if you want just let me know what your looking for i have my trans out still

doncarbone

iTrader: (15)

sure dude if you could measure the height of the clutch including the clutch cover. are you using the OEM flywheel? i have the ACT stage 3 - i think its height is identical to the stage 1.