Circle Earth ground kit
Nov 17, 2004, 06:12 AM
#16
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the stock tach is never accurate anyways
i got the REAL Hyper Ground Kit from Sun Trading and it's made in japan, the quality is top notch. They are the same company that makes the the mitsubishi kit
-joe
i got the REAL Hyper Ground Kit from Sun Trading and it's made in japan, the quality is top notch. They are the same company that makes the the mitsubishi kit
-joe
Nov 17, 2004, 06:23 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by WoRkZ
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Juste a note: with the ground kit installed, your engine is running at exactly the same RPM as before for the same given speed. Gear ratios dictate that, and those are mechanical parts that cannot be affected by electrical currents. What is changing is the way the RPM sensor operates (these are electromagnetic sensors).
So basically, the RPM sensor was tuned for the stock electrical system. When installing additionnal grounding points, you change the electrical setup (shorten ot lenghten certain grounding pathways) and thus get a false reading.
That means that you might now be running the engine at 3750 RPM when it reads 3500. Appart from the fact that your RPM is not that accurate anymore, it might also affect the cutoff point of the engine, since the ECU uses this data to shut the ignition off passed the preset red line point. It might not be a huge difference, but 250-300 more RPM at the red line is not the best thing for your engine. Unlike me, if you never get your engine near the red line, this is not a concern... and you're only left with the eroneous reading from the sensor (which is not such a big problem).
The grounding kit should improve high powered audio setups though, that's easy physics.
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Juste a note: with the ground kit installed, your engine is running at exactly the same RPM as before for the same given speed. Gear ratios dictate that, and those are mechanical parts that cannot be affected by electrical currents. What is changing is the way the RPM sensor operates (these are electromagnetic sensors).
So basically, the RPM sensor was tuned for the stock electrical system. When installing additionnal grounding points, you change the electrical setup (shorten ot lenghten certain grounding pathways) and thus get a false reading.
That means that you might now be running the engine at 3750 RPM when it reads 3500. Appart from the fact that your RPM is not that accurate anymore, it might also affect the cutoff point of the engine, since the ECU uses this data to shut the ignition off passed the preset red line point. It might not be a huge difference, but 250-300 more RPM at the red line is not the best thing for your engine. Unlike me, if you never get your engine near the red line, this is not a concern... and you're only left with the eroneous reading from the sensor (which is not such a big problem).
The grounding kit should improve high powered audio setups though, that's easy physics.
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I realized that this mod is for the electrical system which is why I bought it in the first place. I have interior LED's and I plan on at upgrading the stereo system in the future.
Nov 19, 2004, 04:16 AM
#21
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can we say hardware store people??? you can get brass fittings/mounts for 10 cents, you can pick up wire (any length you want) at an audio store for a buck or two a foot and thats if you want high quality monster cable screws of whatever type style or size are also pennies a piece. you could get a whole grounding set up just as good as the kits that go for 100 bucks for around 15-20 bucks.
Nov 19, 2004, 04:52 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by Canadian Canuck
I have the Hyper grounding kit and the only reason I went with that is it is warrantied under my Mitsu car warranty as it considered a Mitsu accessory.
Nov 19, 2004, 07:26 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by wild_child
How much does it cost?? and where can I found it???
Nov 19, 2004, 08:14 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Sentinal
can we say hardware store people??? you can get brass fittings/mounts for 10 cents, you can pick up wire (any length you want) at an audio store for a buck or two a foot and thats if you want high quality monster cable screws of whatever type style or size are also pennies a piece. you could get a whole grounding set up just as good as the kits that go for 100 bucks for around 15-20 bucks.
Guys, Sentinal is right... I could make myself a very decent grounding kit for under 20$... 30$ if I push it on the terminals quality. In Montreal, I'd go to Adison electronics... and all major cities have specialized a distributor for electronics components. Save some money and use it on something of real value...
Just my 2 cents...
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Nov 19, 2004, 01:36 PM
#25
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you guys go ahead and make your own, but if you look at the quality that goes into the expensive kits (no, not the $28 ebay special), it's worth the money
the wire is thick, tube,sleeve,and tubed again.. the terminals are all pretty good
-joe
the wire is thick, tube,sleeve,and tubed again.. the terminals are all pretty good
-joe
Dec 5, 2004, 06:37 AM
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I just put a grounding kit in my RA, I bought it from a Mitsu Dealer for $170cdn.
I would post the instructions that came with it but they were poor quality photocopies.
(I’ll try scanning them any way to see how well they turn out)
We just had a bad snowstorm and the roads suck so I haven’t been out much so I don’t know exactly how well it works. It seems that performance at very low speeds (speedometer not moving, almost stopped) has improved. The car used to shake and almost stall when not touching the clutch, but now it is smooth. Starting the car also seems faster. I’ll also try and see what effect it has on the RPM’s as discussed earlier.
I would post the instructions that came with it but they were poor quality photocopies.
(I’ll try scanning them any way to see how well they turn out)
We just had a bad snowstorm and the roads suck so I haven’t been out much so I don’t know exactly how well it works. It seems that performance at very low speeds (speedometer not moving, almost stopped) has improved. The car used to shake and almost stall when not touching the clutch, but now it is smooth. Starting the car also seems faster. I’ll also try and see what effect it has on the RPM’s as discussed earlier.
Dec 5, 2004, 07:15 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by jeffmcm
I just put a grounding kit in my RA, I bought it from a Mitsu Dealer for $170cdn.
I would post the instructions that came with it but they were poor quality photocopies.
(I’ll try scanning them any way to see how well they turn out)
We just had a bad snowstorm and the roads suck so I haven’t been out much so I don’t know exactly how well it works. It seems that performance at very low speeds (speedometer not moving, almost stopped) has improved. The car used to shake and almost stall when not touching the clutch, but now it is smooth. Starting the car also seems faster. I’ll also try and see what effect it has on the RPM’s as discussed earlier.
I would post the instructions that came with it but they were poor quality photocopies.
(I’ll try scanning them any way to see how well they turn out)
We just had a bad snowstorm and the roads suck so I haven’t been out much so I don’t know exactly how well it works. It seems that performance at very low speeds (speedometer not moving, almost stopped) has improved. The car used to shake and almost stall when not touching the clutch, but now it is smooth. Starting the car also seems faster. I’ll also try and see what effect it has on the RPM’s as discussed earlier.
Secondly, when ever you remove the ground line from the car, you are erasing the memory from the computer. It now takes a few good drives for the computer to relearn the car and your driving habits. So it will drive diffrent for the first bit. You may be feeling this aswell.
Dec 7, 2004, 01:11 AM
#28
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It bolts right to the electronic throttle control, so that might be why at low speeds the throttle response is better. When I have more KM on the car I’ll give an update.
This is just what I’ve noticed so far.
This is just what I’ve noticed so far.
Mar 29, 2006, 10:32 PM
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you need to replace this piece, if I'm not mistaken. Thats what I did anyway. If you just let it hang there the alternator wont charge to battery. That big fat wire is part of that circuit. If I'm not mistaken