I should have mentionned my car didn't come with the manual. 5W20, summer and winter. Even with synthetic. Ok I get that.

 

Synthetic is a better oil but be careful since the oil pump tolerances may not be tight enough to effectively pull (pump) the thinner oil through the motor. Just an FYI.

ROAD/RACE

 

ok i got a question our hood weights 34 ish pounds right. ive seen a couple evo's shave the excess weight off their hood by cutting the metal that is under the top. my question is how much weight do you think it would cut out of the hood? maybe 10lbs?

 

Figure on only getting to cut 4 pounds out unless you shave everything off of it. Even then you will not reach 10 lbs. Cf hood will shave more than 20 lbs off.

ROAD/RACE

 

ok i plan on putting the obx headers i bought a while ago on but u dont want to throw a code for the o2 im already throwing one so i want to get rid of it by putting the headers on. (dont know if that makes seince) also im wanting to put a wideband afr guage in and get the rrm cat-back do i need to change or buy new o2 sensors?
my understanding is we have 2 right? so the afr has one already so thats a new one but i dont know what one it will replace.

 

your ECU wants 2 oxygen sensors, pre-cat and post-cat, why not have them both and put the wideband in a different spot, all you need is a weld-on bung, have it welded in the pipe.

 

what benefit will i get out of that? also i was wondering what mods i would need to get into the 15's im currently running high 16 low 17. the reason its that slow is the altitude.....i think.

 

also if i run lean does that affect performance?

 

benefit of what? you're supposed to have 2 oxygen sensors...

depends on how lean, technically speaking the leaner the better, but you do not want to go over stoich. If you start knocking, then you lose performance, because the early detonation wants to push the crank backwards, and will either slowly kill your motor, or it will just pop, and die instantly.

 

ok well im gonna order both the o2 sensors. then i will order the wideband im trying to at least get into the low 15's next summer. what mods more do i need? its kinda frustrating because stock its supost to run low 15's so why am i running 17's? i know altitude has some to do with it but 2 sec slower than stock thats where i need help.

 

Are you manual, or auto? I just trapped a 15.3 last night, all i have is a custom cold air running off a short ram pipe, my exhaust is stock, aside from the muffler, and i have the reflash...the LSD helps a lot out of the hole, but before that, when i was stock, i was still running 15.7 - 15.9...NA bolts ons aren't going to shave 2 seconds off a quarter mile time. It's all in the launch, and hooking up.

what's your altitude?

 

alt. 5800' above sealevel. i have a 5-spd even when i did hook up good i only traped 16.8
what tires did you use? it might also be that im using all season's.
the guy who had my car before had a turbo on it and some how blew it im not shur how he did it or even how he tuned it but it might be that the ecu is tuned diffrent than its suppost to be do you think a piggy back would work? im not shur how much the reflash is but i was also thinking about upgrading my tranny.

 

What is a reflash? And what does it do?

 

I have Kumho Ecsta SPT KU-31 tires...they grip OK, but they are not the greatest, for 20$ more per tire i could have got dunlop star specs. I highly doubt he had an ECU tune, as far as we know Hackish is the only one who can do it. he probably either had a piggy back, or manual fuel controller, and ran it pig rich cause you can't pull timing. Piggy backs are ****, i don't care what anyone says. Take a road trip down the mountain and run a 1/4 mile closer to sea level, and see how it does, you might need a tune up there...i'm at 260 feet above sea level, and she runs great. Wjhat do you mean by upgrading the tranny?

your ECU is a computer there is a program that is written to it that controls everything you r engine does...it's read only memory, so the only way to reprogram it, is to flash it with a new program. Reflashing memory is not the issue, it's creating a new program, and having it work properly that has been the plague of these ECU's, and that is what Hackish has done. With a good tune, you can add/pull timing, change fuel maps, add features, use different sensors, etc. Basically you can optimize engine performace using the stock computer, cause the factory tune is very conservative for warranty and reliability purposes, but it comes at a cost of performance.

 

better clutch swap the syncros out new and get a lighter flywheel. well i guess getting the wide band afr would benifit me. the altitude of where i live is 5471' and i does feel like it pulls a little better. if you wouldn't mind send me a pm how much it was to reflash the ecu. maybe it will be worth it to retune it rather than get the piggy back.