P0171 Too lean after RRM intake
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P0171 Too lean after RRM intake
Ok, after many many tests, I am still getting the p0171 too lean condition when installing the RRM SRI.
I put my stock airbox back on many times and the code does not appear after resetting.
Every time I throw in the RRM SRI back on I get the code.
I know Dan wont agree with me when I say that I have no leaks, but I have no leaks. I do have a few engineering degrees, and quite a bit of mechanical experience, and I've been around for 37 years. I'm confident I do not have leaks.
What gives?
I put my stock airbox back on many times and the code does not appear after resetting.
Every time I throw in the RRM SRI back on I get the code.
I know Dan wont agree with me when I say that I have no leaks, but I have no leaks. I do have a few engineering degrees, and quite a bit of mechanical experience, and I've been around for 37 years. I'm confident I do not have leaks.
What gives?
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Unmetered air is getting through somehow... MAF problem??? Or that intake is really throwing off the Maf signal. Even engineers sometime make mistakes... My dad's a chemical engineer. I wasn't smart enough to follow in his footsteps. After a year of chemistry, I said enough is enough...
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no, not leaks. is that the only mod you have on the car? leaks wouldn't necessarily cause a lean code. system too lean is caused by the front and rear sensors not being in relation to each other as expected, or the front sensor maxing out (narrowband signal is from 14 to 15 AFR). if you only get the code with the intake you need a piggyback. What are the temps there? RRM is in socal, so the temp difference is most likely why this is causing a code in some cars and not others. same thing with one of the base maps on the NA piggy supposedly being lean on some cars. if you don't tune it, it's your fault. RRM just saved you some money providing a BASE map to start from. dyno time is WAY more expensive than paying RRM for a little R&D, imo.
i would say don't drive the car with a too lean code, if you have some spare cash buy a fuel controller of some kind and go to the dyno. you will have your SRI and a much better tune than mitsu provides from the factory.
2004? how many miles? VERY unlikely, but you could have a fuel delivery problem. does the code appear no matter what, or only after a few WOT runs to the redline? you could try driving around without entering open loop in the ECU (no WOT) for about 50 miles or so. if the cel still comes on you have another issue, and the SRI is bringing it out due to the additional flow at high RPM.
Again, not very likely, but at least it gives you something to do without spending money
i would say don't drive the car with a too lean code, if you have some spare cash buy a fuel controller of some kind and go to the dyno. you will have your SRI and a much better tune than mitsu provides from the factory.
2004? how many miles? VERY unlikely, but you could have a fuel delivery problem. does the code appear no matter what, or only after a few WOT runs to the redline? you could try driving around without entering open loop in the ECU (no WOT) for about 50 miles or so. if the cel still comes on you have another issue, and the SRI is bringing it out due to the additional flow at high RPM.
Again, not very likely, but at least it gives you something to do without spending money
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I usually run low test gas. I just hate throwing high test into a low performance engine. Knowhutimean? I figure the higher the octane, the more resistant to knocking, and I'm not knocking. In otherwords, cheap gas combusts faster.
I'd also hate to sink $$$ into a piggy, but it would be fun experience.. mabye I'll shoot for the SMT-6 and save some dough..
It came on during normal driving conditions.. Oh-I only have 12,000 miles on the car.. no other mods..
So would you reckon it's gulping too much air, and can't deliver the gas to match?
Suggestions of Wideband?
Thanks for all of your input thus far.
I'd also hate to sink $$$ into a piggy, but it would be fun experience.. mabye I'll shoot for the SMT-6 and save some dough..
It came on during normal driving conditions.. Oh-I only have 12,000 miles on the car.. no other mods..
So would you reckon it's gulping too much air, and can't deliver the gas to match?
Suggestions of Wideband?
Thanks for all of your input thus far.
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innovate motorsports lc-1 is the cheapest I found, but it's such a simple piece of equipment the ONLY thing it will do is log your AFR.
about the knock thing, I would be willing to bet if you are showing a system too lean code that the ECU is having to pull a little timing due to the lean condition CREATING knock for you. the tactrix cable will let you log from the obdii port to be sure, but that's another 100$
you could also switch to midgrade and see if that helps. I never run anything but premium, but I figure you pay for the power in other ways why not get the fastest fuel you can afford too.
about the knock thing, I would be willing to bet if you are showing a system too lean code that the ECU is having to pull a little timing due to the lean condition CREATING knock for you. the tactrix cable will let you log from the obdii port to be sure, but that's another 100$
you could also switch to midgrade and see if that helps. I never run anything but premium, but I figure you pay for the power in other ways why not get the fastest fuel you can afford too.
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both zeitronix and innovate get great reviews, it comes down to cost and preference. RRM is partial to zeitronix, mostly because when you buy something and it always performs for you then why change I would guess. the only other reasons I can think of are: a)someone reputable recommended zeitronix, or b)they're getting kickbacks I doubt it, because that's not the way I would run my business and from the limited contact I have had with Rob and RRM I can tell they are my kind of people.
either way, if he's talking solely about features and not quality then he is right, the zeitronix is more bang for your buck.
either way, if he's talking solely about features and not quality then he is right, the zeitronix is more bang for your buck.
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Mine was throwing the code, AFTER, Mitsu flashed my car ( some service bulletin thing), I was running Injen Cai, RRM's DP, stock exhaust/piping/muffler, After that it threw a random misfiring code and it was misfiring. The car spent most it's daily commute bogging and pulling and fuel cutting.
You need to disconnect the battery for a long time.... Sounds way silly, but here's my experience with it:
If you disconnect it forless tahn half hour, the Check Engine (or SES) goes off, but the car will feel really like if it is on safe mode, very lazy picking up.
If you let it sit for a couple of ours( Let's say a good period of playing Forza 2), when you reconnect and let it sit 5 minutes, and allow the car to "learn" the right way. the car will perform like normal even better depending of the previos condition it had
IS not a fact, just a recurring factor im seeing
You need to disconnect the battery for a long time.... Sounds way silly, but here's my experience with it:
If you disconnect it forless tahn half hour, the Check Engine (or SES) goes off, but the car will feel really like if it is on safe mode, very lazy picking up.
If you let it sit for a couple of ours( Let's say a good period of playing Forza 2), when you reconnect and let it sit 5 minutes, and allow the car to "learn" the right way. the car will perform like normal even better depending of the previos condition it had
IS not a fact, just a recurring factor im seeing
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+1 ^ if your disconnecting the battery when you swap intakes and not letting the ECU relearn at all and going out and driving the **** outta it, that might make it throw the code. my 2cents.
#12
I hAVE THE SAME CODE P0171 , I WAS RUNNING LEAN ON BANK 1.. I GOT MY HANDS ON A SCAN TOOL AND FOUND OUT I WAS NOT GETTING VOLTAGE TO MY FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR. HAVENT HAD THE CHANCE OR THE MONEY TO SWAP OUT THE SENSORS.. BUT YOU SHOULD ALSO CHECK A.I.T /MAF IF ANYTHING... GOOD LUCK WITH THAT
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Again, it only has 12k miles! So I doubt it's a faulty sensor.
I did speak with Rock yesterday. I'm paraphrasing here... He's theory is that the filter is gulping too much air and passing more than the car's preset parameter range. So he is pointing completely at the MAF and not the o2 sensor.
I did speak with Rock yesterday. I'm paraphrasing here... He's theory is that the filter is gulping too much air and passing more than the car's preset parameter range. So he is pointing completely at the MAF and not the o2 sensor.
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Again, it only has 12k miles! So I doubt it's a faulty sensor.
I did speak with Rock yesterday. I'm paraphrasing here... He's theory is that the filter is gulping too much air and passing more than the car's preset parameter range. So he is pointing completely at the MAF and not the o2 sensor.
I did speak with Rock yesterday. I'm paraphrasing here... He's theory is that the filter is gulping too much air and passing more than the car's preset parameter range. So he is pointing completely at the MAF and not the o2 sensor.
besides that, look at how the piggy operates: when you add fuel in the map above the stock level you are only modifying the MAF signal going to the ECU telling it MORE air is going through than what really is, so it pulls the injector latency value from a cell with more fuel. along that line of thinking, if you are running lean and buy a piggyback it will make your problem worse.
because of both of these things I highly doubt the ECU is seeing more air than it should, more likely the front o2 sensor really is reading a lean condition. have you checked the rubber part of the intake, not just around the SRI, but from the IM to the filter? I would guess so, but I have to ask.
Last edited by DangerousDan; Jun 20, 2007 at 06:46 AM.