Ok so as you guys kno, i got the turbo kit with the 10psi 1000cc injector. Runs good on other kits, but since turbo trix did the "tuning" and destroyed my car, its just not running right. I just wanna see if the problem i have is a tuning error, or mechanical problem.

please only serious help from smart people only. Thanks...


On a cold start, like first time starting it up for the day, it will 90% of the time just stall out. I put the clutch in, start it up, it BARELY starts, than as soon as i let the clutch out, the car dies. After it stalls out the first time, seems like its harder and harder to get it to start up. FINALLY after a few tries, it will start up, but it will stall out almost immidiently. The only way i can get it to stay running at idle is if i rest my foot on the gas and keep it revving above 1000 rpms.

you would think after it warms up it would have a normal idle. Nope, not at all. after keeping my foot on the gas for 5 minutes, i let it out, and BOOM stalls out immidiently again. This happens all the time and is very frusterating, so i say **** it. I just start it up and take off immidently. I know thats not healthy...

So after i do this, It runs and drives pretty normal (if i drive it mildly). But everytime i come to a complete stop at a redlight/stop sign, it will stall out again. Seems like it just cant idle at all. So i gotta start it back up when the light turns green, and i just gotta gun it before it stalls out again.....

this will go on for about 15-20 minutes of driving. AFter 20 minutes i guess its finally "warmed up" and it can idle by itself. But the idle sounds SO ROUGH. it is a really really bad idle. Bouncing between 400-900 rpms and almost stalling out every second. barely staying alive.

^^^ that is the major problem i have. I have 2 other smaller problems....

2nd problem - When im beating the car and racing it, the car wont rev past 5500-5700 rpms. Sounds like the car is coughing. I know thats probly a tuning issue but want to check it with you first.

3rd problem - The car has more power at 80% throttle than it does at full throttle. You can feel it, its obvious. Very tourquey, and it PULLS hard at 80% throttle, but once you punch it all the way, you feel the car lose at least 40+ horse power. I know thats probly a tuning problem to, but i just wanted to check with that as well.

The main problem is the first one. The stalling out, the rough idle, and the car not stay running.

P.S.

thanks alot turbo trix!! lol haha

 

i got the car tuned in the winter. and when it was cold out, it would run fine. sometimes a rough idle, but good most of the time..... now its getting drastically worse and worse and the days get warmer...


what do you guys think? experieced help would be greatly appriciated.

 

Sounds like all tuning to me. Since I'm not terribly smart, and won't venture a specific guess on the interwebs.......your tune is off.
Take it to another shop if you didn't like the first one. There has to be more than one in your area.

 

Well since cold air is more dense (more oxygen) the car requires more fuel in order to mantain 14:7to 1 ratio at idle. Most likely your over rich problem if the reason for all your problems. When the air is hot there is less oxygen and also interal combustion temps will be high which means alittle less fuel. (Cold tune) So what is happening when you go WOT it is pushing so much fuel that it causes a rich misfire or bog as you would call it. Too much fuel to where the max output of your coils can't ignite the fuel. That would be the fall out and the reason of the 80% has most power. Most likely the tuning section for 4-5 V throttle is off. That is my assumption. That is one.

Second, for your idle issue. If you have a wide band or you can monitor your lambda/o2 sensor readings or even better yet your STFT/LTFT see if they are biased rich/ trying to subtract fuel. STFT/LTFT is they are (-) that means the ECU is trying to compensate for rich condition to lean it out. Now if your o2 sensor reading is 700+ and staying there that is biased rich. Now it should only take about 1 minute of running to get the o2 hot enough because of the heater circuit. Now for you lambda if it is under 1 like .9 and below then the car is running too rich. Now .9 is fine but if it is closer to .6 for say then you have a problem. If you find out any of these readings or all and send them through IM to me i can tell you what you need to do. A data log would work great also if you hook up your TP signal also.

Third, The bouncing of the idle is most likely because of your rich like i said before but also because the ECU while compensating is also adjusting timing and idle in order to find a good balance. Now if it can't then what will happen is the fuel with saturate the spark plugs enough to exstinguish the flame. Plus with fuel saturation it will be hard for the spark to jump the gap until enough of the saturation turns into a vapor/gas. If you have any questions give me a buzz. I hope this will help alittle.

Ok in a nut shell,
Check your plugs.

 

sounds likea huge help... thanks alot man.... I got the winter tune by a guy in philly. he visits the forums from time to time. he has experience with ralliart and tuned RRM kit before. He did mine in winter and in ran good. But he did say to come back with new spark plugs soon. I got a new job and couldnt come back... I can go back to him now (with the plugs) and get a summer tune. I really hope its just tuning problems and not mechanical problems....

thanks again for the help...

if anybody else has something to add i would really appriciate it

 

oh... and nice advatar lol...

 

sorry if someone covered this in another reply but im too lazy to read them all....it sounds like you are WAAYYYY to rich...choking your plugs with fuel at low RPM's not being able to burn it all....then with the 80% to 100% foot down, just flooding the **** outta it....id say maybe smaller injectors for a start and check your plugs

 

IMO, SSP hit it all on the head. Best thing you could do is to log the car with Evoscan. If you don't have a wideband, it wouldn't be a bad investment for the type of setup you're running. The more info you're able to bring to your tuner, the better able he'll be able to get your car running right.

 

Just wondering but how did the guy from philly tune your car the first time without a wideband? Was it a dyno tune? I've heard nothing but good things about turbo trix until now, I'm not very good with tuning, as I'm still learning but one piece of advice would be to purchase a wideband. I've toyed around with mines using evoscan and though it doesn't work 100% with the RA (throttle percentage is off etc) it still is quite interesting to know what you can get from having a wideband and a tactrix cable.

Also sounds like you might be running pig rich which would cause the choking/coughing sound you're experiencing, but that's just my opinion.

Wish you the best of luck with fixing your setup.

 

It was likely tuned on a dyno with a tailpipe sniffer.

 

i thought u got it figured out already after u took it to ray@revitup. y are u still having tuning issues then?

 

I used to have your 1st and 3rd problem. I pretty much had to let the car warm up like 10/15 minutes before setting to go because of that stalling problem, followed by the rough idle.

The reason for my troubles was that my exhaust was getting disconnected from the downpipe, the O2 was not reading well and it was over compensating

 

the problem sound lke a tunning issue...
if you tunned it on winter... then you need a summer tune

also

this has happened to me when i used too much fuel (1000cc on all 4? or is it just an extra?)

but again... it could be the tune

 

your car had this problem to but it was an exhaust problem??? hmmm im going to have to check that out... I know it sounds like its a tuning problem, but Rock told me that its most likely some kidn of mechanical error. He said the Turbo piggy dont kick in until boost kicks in, and the car runs on stock ecu at idle. So i really dont know what to do. i guess check my exhaust all my gaskets and so on and so forth...

and yea ray@revitup did tune the car. he did a good job fixing what turbo trix destroyed. Only problem was my spark plugs were so soaked and drained that i needed new ones. bad. I didnt have any at the time. So ray fixed me up the best he can with the crap plugs i had. I was supposed to go back to him 2 weeks later with new plugs and my final tune, but i got a new job and couldnt go back to him... Now im going back to him with the new plugs and to get the summer tune... i really hope its a tuning problem like you guys think, cuz idont feel like putting the raliart on a lift and check every little bit...

So my spark plugs now are garbage, you think that could be the culprit? Cuz rob did say its most likely not a tuning error. Its a stock ecu map at idle. Think he's right, or do you think turbo trix might have ruined the stock tune as well as the piggy's tune.???

i guess only time will tell. june 2nd i go to ray to get it tuned. if it works, than awesome. if it dont work i'm going to drop it off at my mechanics and tell him to keep the damn car lol.

 

Have you tried pulling your codes? I imagine you have a CEL.