EvOZrally7

Didn't work. now its time to just change the clutch and take a look at the trans. sorry for the let down guys.

Ralliart_on_LSD

iTrader: (8)

do you have reinforced motor mounts, or at least a tourque dampner?? that'll help keep the motor still when shifting at high revs. could prevent this from happening again

Christoforo

iTrader: (1)

No I don't have either. How much is a torque dampner?

farazshah

I've got the grinding issue, I've had the car since it got to the dealer. Always high revving from first to second. It's very annoying.

Ralliart_on_LSD

iTrader: (8)

if its only during first and 2nd is probably due to engine movement. get a tourque damnper and/or motor mounts.

bruce988jl

iTrader: (56)

the zacklee guy doesn't sell his dampeners anymore. Either way, the one I have the bushings need to be refilled cause they're all ripped apart now. I have the RRM motormounts on the way, and my stock lower clutchline decided to give out last night so I'ma have to overnight a lower clutch line from RRM to boston today...

I took it apart, looks like the guys who replaced my slave cylinder while they did the clutch over tightened the nut on the line causing a slow leak which decided to give out last night.

griffeyr

iTrader: (24)

My grinding issue was from 4th to 5th...the synchros went out...so they have to replace 5th gear...luckily the dealership replaced it under warranty even with all my mods...while the warranty paid for the tranny to be out, i went ahead and put an act in it and had the flywheel resurfaced for like 80 bucks...i think its bs that we pay all this money for these cars and have tranny issues at reasonable mileage...Mitsu knows what ppl are gonna do with these cars, why not put a lil extra in the tranny so there arent all these probs...just my 2 cents

Christoforo

iTrader: (1)

I see, so motor mounts are my only solution now? (well, my only reasonably priced solution from a complete transmission replacement)

Since I made this topic I haven't had the problem again (probably because I have it on the mind now whenever I'm driving my RA), but its an issue that I'd really like to clear up.

Speed Element

iTrader: (270)

It is been confirmed that the Blox front engine roll stopper is a direct fit for 04-06 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart models.

The advantages of the Blox front engine roll stopper:

- Light Weight, Strong, and Rigid.

- Traction is greatly improved due to the significant reduction of front-to-back movements while the engine is under on/off throttle conditions; furthermore, it improves shifter feel and on/off throttle response.

-Durometer Rating for the Mount: 90A, much stiffer than OEM.

The only down side of this front engine roll stopper would be slight steering wheel/cabin vibration due to stiffer durometer rating for the engine mount.

thaphoneistappe

i was looking forward to a zaklee dampner.... why dont we start a class action lawsuit and all get new trans and clutches?!beeeeoooooowoww

SSP-Ralliart

iTrader: (1)

I used to have that problem even with solid motor mounts. At first it was my clutch not holding during the increased torque load due to gear reduction. The down side was since my clutch wasn't hold all that torque got transfered to my 1-2 synchronizing rings along with my cone clutch. I now use double synchro rings and now i can shift with ease on the drag strip at 6500rpms. I use only AMSOIL. Never had any issues since. But I do also think it could be contributed from excessive engine movement.

BiCiRA

same problem here 1st to 2nd and neutral to 3rd!!!! changed tranny oil and got slightly better but didn`t solve the issue...

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

old fluid to start with. 30k and you should expect to notice the difference when you change it. don't use anything that's not recommended on here, lest you feel like changing it again shortly after. mobil1, for example, makes a 75-90 that does not work well with our synchros. don't use mobil1 tranny fluifd in your RA, trust me.

second is the clutch slave modulator. if you still have this and fluid doesn't solve your problem then you are shifting faster than this modulator will allow. This is likely the case, aged tranny fluid or not. If you aren't very comfortable with a stick, this thing is your friend. If you consider your skills above par then take it out. Read the information on here about the thing before taking it out though, some of it is rather noteworthy

don't forget: as it gets colder you will have to wait longer for things to reach acceptable usage temperatures. The transmission fluid and all the parts are not designed for use at 32*F; you have to achieve running temperature to expect normal operation. man I love having a garage my tranny is much stiffer when I leave work then when I leave the house in the morning

DangerousDan

iTrader: (8)

forgot the mounts. especially if you are cornering hard the engine tends to move a lot; I had problems going from 2 to 3, then I did a ton of crap to the car mounts, clutch block, both sets of shifter bushings, clutch modulator removed, synthetic brake fluid (makes a difference, at least when what you take out is murky)among other things not related to this discussion... now I have no problems shifting, except when the car is really cold (say at or right around freezing) When it gets really cold I have to double clutch 1-2 or 2-3 if I don't let the car warm up a little bit before driving off. **** it.

bruce988jl

iTrader: (56)

I had this problem where I couldn't get into 1st or 2nd gear when the car was on, but could do it fine when the car was off. Right now my car's at the shop with a ripped open transmission (will take photos soon) and I'm replacing 1 and 2 synchros, bearings, sychro fork and the TOB while i'm in there. The clutch fork looked fine so I'm going to keep that, but I also had to have my pressure plate machined down as the one Works sent me was too large by a hair and it was hitting the housing. Which explains that sound I had when the car was idling and driving around it wasn't just flywheel chatter.
Its a nice way to spend 1000$+