New brakes/rotors still feeling a little odd
#16
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If they are zinc or cadmium plated it may take some time for the soft ceramic pad to wear through the coating
If it's not that - it's the soft ceramic pads..
The pic of the rotor surface looks ok to me as far as even wear but it at least appears that you still have some residual shiny on there.
i would bed in a few more times - and don't go nuts or you will boil your brake fluid - but you should know when you have reached the pads friction limit and it's a s good as it will get.
If it's not that - it's the soft ceramic pads..
The pic of the rotor surface looks ok to me as far as even wear but it at least appears that you still have some residual shiny on there.
i would bed in a few more times - and don't go nuts or you will boil your brake fluid - but you should know when you have reached the pads friction limit and it's a s good as it will get.
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If thats the case otter, what would you suggest for every day street driving with a bit of excitement every now and then? And where would be the cheapest place to order them from?
They would be my next pad purchase after these are toasted.
They would be my next pad purchase after these are toasted.
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A good semi-metallic brake pad.
Hawk HPS are a fine example.
SP Performance makes a decent non-brand alternative
Raybestos has some offerings as well.
More metallic based pads do have drawbacks in NVH - but I have yet to find a 'ceramic' pad that can duplicate the feel of a a good semi-metallic other than some very expensive 'ceramic' race pads like pagid's. That's a different subject almost entirely.
Hawk HPS are a fine example.
SP Performance makes a decent non-brand alternative
Raybestos has some offerings as well.
More metallic based pads do have drawbacks in NVH - but I have yet to find a 'ceramic' pad that can duplicate the feel of a a good semi-metallic other than some very expensive 'ceramic' race pads like pagid's. That's a different subject almost entirely.
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Before trying pads, I would just bleed all the current fluid out and put in some synthetic. Maybe others can chime in with their preferred brands, but for your use, I would say Valvoline DOT 4 synthetic would be fine, which Kragens and such should have. After several years, brake fluid can degrade a bit and maybe you have a bit of air in the system somewhere, therefore giving you a weak/spongy pedal.
If not that, try new pads. Maybe EBC (green or red) or Hawk HPS. And RRM SS lines wouldn't hurt either. But yeah try bleeding all brake fluid first.
If not that, try new pads. Maybe EBC (green or red) or Hawk HPS. And RRM SS lines wouldn't hurt either. But yeah try bleeding all brake fluid first.
#23
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I'm perfectly happy running Axxis Ultimates. They can be found cheap on eBay ($50) and have great bite. Downside is that they generate a ****-ton of dust. If you don't want to clean your wheels twice a week, I would either paint them black or not use those pads. I've also used EBC Redstuff on the car, their bite is fairly close to the Axxis pads, but they have much less dust. They do cost a bit more, about $80 for a front set.
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I'll keep those in mind Otter. I went to a secluded road and bedded the brakes in again yesterday and so far they've got a bit more bite then they had when I made this topic. They're at a point where I'm happy with the performance I'm getting out of them though, so I think another round of bedding was the solution, which I'm glad because the thought of bleeding the lines gave me a headache.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'll definitely refer back to this topic when the time comes to get new pads/brake fluid.
Thanks for all the help guys, I'll definitely refer back to this topic when the time comes to get new pads/brake fluid.
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Good to hear. I had this issue once before but the cause was the PBR pads needed to warm up before they had any real braking power. The first few stops on cold mornings required my full attention but I eventually got used to them. I did not buy those PBR pads the next time I needed brakes.
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