Hi, first time poster so excuse me if i ask any cliche questions etc. Went to my buddys shop today to get some stuff put on my car and he began poking around and did not necesarily like what he saw. He ended up scanning my car and the issues which came up were P0113 Intake air temperature SNS.high and p0102 AFS low input. Before it was for the most part fine, the engine light was not on ever and it only really idled at 2000 rpm in intense highway traffic. Once he took the air intake apart to plot where he would put the hks mushroom and then put the stock one back togheter as we needed to go buy pipes, the car began idling at 3000 rpm when driving and would accelerate on its own when in gear. He says he will fix it no problem monday when he is back from conneticut but I just wanted youre guys opinion on here on what it most likely is or if you have had this happen to you. I tried looking through threads to find any one who had previously posted about but i couldnt. Any help would be greatly appreciated -Jayson

 

You sure you don't have a Prius? Accelerating on its own...haha

Never heard of that issue unfortunitely... And I'm not too familiar with our drive-by-wire setup

 

how's the throttle cable tension?

 

maybe a defective mass air flow sensor, high idling is probably a fail-safe mode

solve the mass air flow problem and re-test the idle

 

This. And personally I'd maybe reset the ECU and let it learn to idle

 

Thanks for the advice gonna do that, do you recomend getting the mitsubishi mass air flow sensor, or a brand that makes them? I dont mind spending the extra for the mitsubishi one just not sure if it will make a huge difference in terms of reliability, lifespan etc

 

One day at school I hook up a scanner to check throttle position when I would put my foot to the ground it only read 85% open.. Thinking about this I wondered a tune can change the value and make it at 100% at wot but what if we can pull tighter on the cable causing it to open 100% at the end of the cable there's a stop to stop it from being pulled to tight and also a stop under the gas pedal than I saw the tps and it's adjustable so thinking I can adjust it to read 100% at the 85% position if I turn it so I did so and when I started the car it idled at 3k rpm and wouldnt drop.. I could of just said check the tps but I wanted to inform everyone on this that wot is only 85%.. Check the tps at the end Of the throttle cable

 

don'T mess with tps...

is the HKS mushroom as oil on it??

i suggest try to clean the mass airflow with brake cleaner and compressed air (careful with the air... not too close of sensor)
and then re-try... if it don't works write the part number of your mass air flow (writted on the top of it) go to scrapyard and take a sensor with low millage...

these sensor don't break often, only seems to quit with cold air intakes or special filters...

 

The issue appeared before any of the aftermarket stuff was put on, I think the original airfilter thing had been swapped out for a k&n one at most so that might have been the issue. I tried cleaning the mass airflow sensor with a sensor cleaner but that only semi did the trick and it still idles high in traffic and for 30 or so seconds when I turn it on. the junkyard idea deffinitally sounds like a good idea though. Thanks everyone for their input

 

Don't use brake cleaner, compressed air or CRC stuff on the mass airflow sensor it may damage it, especially the brake cleaner. If there was a K&N drop in filter that uses the oily crap on it it may have damaged your sensor.

BTW since this was supposed to be solved on monday...any feedback or solutions to your issue?

 

There was originally a k&n drop in filter when I got it so that was probably what did it. As the car settled in with the changes(new cold air etc) the idling issue began to clear up. Once I got my exhaust put on it now initially revs at 1500rpm when I start it cold and after a minute or two of idling it goes down to around 500 rpm. The rev issue only appears here and there now so im gonna assume my sensor is semi damaged but still workable to where I can invest money on my suspension and brakes and spend the money on the sensor later when it gets bad. Thanks to everyone for their input