Thomar

The maintenance manual doesn't really say, but after installing a new clutch master cylinder would I adjust the clutch pedal and then bleed the cmc, or the other way around?

Also, to combine two threats into one, I need to adjust the parking brake handle stroke and the manual states to loosen the adjusting nut and then bleed the brakes before turning the slack adjuster.. that seems kind of unnecessary to me.. couldn't a guy just skip the bleeding of air from the brake circuit?

2006_RA

iTrader: (1)

I did not bleed when I adjusted my hand brake.

I would bleed the CMC then adjust the pedal, but to me the 2 are unrelated.
If you are happy with the pedal height at which the clutch engages, no adjustment is needed.

Thomar

Yea I figured.
Well, the manual does specify a range, I'll adjust it within limits once I do it.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

the hand brake is purely cable operated...

bleed master, then slave, then adjust pedal if necessary

Thomar

Finally got around to replacing the CMC.
The new clutch master cylinder is the kind that also fits the evo 8, so it has no bleed valve. I did it by just using the slave cylinder bleed valve.

My issue is that in the maintenance manual it states that the pedal height should be.. I forget now, but its within spec.
The pedal freeplay whoever is too much. Manual says that the free play from floor stop to the pedal stop should be 105mm or more; mine is around 85mm, maybe 90. To this the manual says that the likely causes is bad cmc, bad slave, bad clutch, or air in the system.
The clutch grabs close to the floor, seems to disengage all the way, but I do get some slight clashing going from first to second. All other gears are fine.

I'm wondering what your pedal free play is using the same cmc, whoever is using it?
I could just be paranoid but since its not the exact as what the car came with its possible that this amount of free play is normal; or I still have air in there.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

if the clutch does not disengage until late in the throw, you need to bleed more, and it's probably not disengaging fully...

Thomar

blead it some more yesterday, think it got a bit better. I'm almost through one of those 980mL bottles. Maybe another 200mL left lol.
I crawled under there again today and was able to turn out the pushrod another 180 degrees to give it another.. i donno.. mm or two..it's turned out as far as it can go at this point.
i'll bleed it again later today if I have the time.

Also, odd thing, I get a whirring sound now as soon as I ever so slightly push down on the clutch lol. Sounds like a ball bearing when you spin it by hand.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

probably air in the system

Thomar

I suppose I'm in disbelieve about how much fluid I'm pumping through there..

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

could be pissing out somewhere too any noise at all is usually air

amg_dragon

iTrader: (1)

Jeez, or your clutch is in fact worn out (in regards to pedal travel) and the whirring noise is the throw out bearing. Search around (not just in the Mitsu sites) for bad throw out bearing sound and see if that's what your hearing and feeling in the pedal.


I guy leaves for a few years and the answers starting falling off... Cranswick, you still have the secret Lancer shop? Maybe you can help the guy out.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

hmm, seems i didn't read one of your posts too good...i thought you said when you press the clutch pedal it makes a whirring sound, i assumed throughout the throw of the pedal, but yeah a light pressing of the pedal actually engages the TOB on the pressure plate, so you're hearing the TOB spinning, and it's on it's way out...still if the pedal goes way close to the floor before disengaging i still feel like it should be bled more...have someone press the clutch pedal and watch the slave and make sure it's extending fully, and not pissing it its boot.

the secret lancer shop is in Ontario, and i have no control over availability...

Thomar

Well, the whirring sound wasnt present before I changed the cmc. It -is- throughout the whole throw until the clutch is engaged again. Maybe you're right and the presence of a few tiny air bubbles in the system causes this sound.

I bled it yesterday and I get quite a bit of travel, maybe 20mm of pedal free play. It's getting better, I'm -hoping- that if I fill the reservoir right to the top and bleed it till its down to the MAX line and do this 4 or so more times it should be ok.
By then I would of used a whole 980mL bottle of brake fluid.

The slave isn't leaking fluid.

RalliartN

iTrader: (1)

I went thru 2 liters bleeding a maxima clutch, couldn't get the air out for a long time.

CrAnSwIcK

iTrader: (5)

you need to bleed the slave as well, once the master has been bled thoroughly...