Sticking front break
#6
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^ no no wait... try the rebuild first. This may get fixed with some good cleaning, regressing and reassembly with new break lines. Calipers like the stock ones are not cheap. Not to me anyway In the end, if you HAVE to get new Calipers... the new break lines are still going to be a good thing so it's no lose.
EDIT: If you do get new calipers... trade in your old ones. Most places will give you a core-charge instant rebate.
EDIT: If you do get new calipers... trade in your old ones. Most places will give you a core-charge instant rebate.
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#10
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Just the rubber flex hoses... If the brake caliper rebuild needs to be explained online, you shouldn't mess with it honestly... Don't take a chance with brakes... If you are going to be in there, replace the pads, rotors, hoses (if you feel they are cracked or damaged) and calipers all at once... Pads and Rotors are cheap...
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dsm brakes "should be" cheaper than oem replacements, and offer upgrades and better pad selections from what I remember. there is a thread on here somewhere, I think Otter started it.
#13
Check your brake fluid for black residu, If you see very fine dustlike residu it's almost 100% sure from the inside of the rubber brake hoses who have dissolved some over time (i presume you stil have the standard brake hoses?). They have become soft and when aplying brakepressure they expand and allow more fluid through and so it also takes longer for that fluid to return resulting in sticky brakes (in short). You can most easily see the residu when you use a new clear tube when bleeding the brakes.
Replace them with steel brake hoses first and then thoroughly flush your system (do it with a pressure flush system) with new fluid. I suggest first do it with the cheapest ABS (DOT 5.1 in the states to i presume?) brake fluid you can find and flush a few bottles through, after you flushed it thoroughly replace it with high quality brakefluid follow the normal procedures for bleeding brakes and you should be fine, i've done it several times with old cars after winter break, my own cars & racecars also and none have ended up wrapped around a tree on public road somewhere or in the concrete wall or guardrail on a circuit so far because of brake failure.
(there should be alot more legal stuff under this post about not being liable or responsible in any possible way for following above directions and ending up dead, etc. etc. but i'm from Europe and dont know how it's in the States but you get the point or someone else who knows can fill in the blanks )
Replace them with steel brake hoses first and then thoroughly flush your system (do it with a pressure flush system) with new fluid. I suggest first do it with the cheapest ABS (DOT 5.1 in the states to i presume?) brake fluid you can find and flush a few bottles through, after you flushed it thoroughly replace it with high quality brakefluid follow the normal procedures for bleeding brakes and you should be fine, i've done it several times with old cars after winter break, my own cars & racecars also and none have ended up wrapped around a tree on public road somewhere or in the concrete wall or guardrail on a circuit so far because of brake failure.
(there should be alot more legal stuff under this post about not being liable or responsible in any possible way for following above directions and ending up dead, etc. etc. but i'm from Europe and dont know how it's in the States but you get the point or someone else who knows can fill in the blanks )
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ok thanx guys, i just took my car to the dealer today for them to take a look at it, and they said they might cover part of the cost since its so close to the warranty. So we will see what happens.
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