R1Concepts Brake Discs (Rotors)
#1
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From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
R1Concepts Brake Discs (Rotors)
So I've seen some people here on the forum having these discs :
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=011
I'd like to change mines since they are a bit rusty and these ebay discs aren't really expensive. From what I've read here and there they seems to be OK discs but I decided to start a topic before buying them to get official feedback from you guys.
I'm not planning on upgrading my calipers soon (pretty expensive)...only the discs.
Thank you guys
Neo
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...MEWA:IT&ih=011
I'd like to change mines since they are a bit rusty and these ebay discs aren't really expensive. From what I've read here and there they seems to be OK discs but I decided to start a topic before buying them to get official feedback from you guys.
I'm not planning on upgrading my calipers soon (pretty expensive)...only the discs.
Thank you guys
Neo
#3
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From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
But anyway, let's turn this discussion a bit. I've read that DRILLED Discs aren't as good as I thought. The best option would be to get only Slotted (and Vented) discs ? Mostly because Drilled will warms up faster and higher than slotted (for the lack of material) and they can crack if the holes aren't drilled properly.
I'm learning as much as I can here so if my statement above is false, please correct me
Here's one of the source for my statement : http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=98
#5
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found some nice EBC discs Slotted. Our model are USR7104 (Front) and USR7108 (Rear)...a bit more expensive than R1 Concepts thought.
How are EBC discs ?
#6
ive been thorugh this alot but, drilling and sloting improve your braking and cooling reguardless but like i was saying on these there arent any direction cut for the countersink in the drills soo it cant scoop air in like a higher end racing rotor, so these dont have any directional pattern and i put mine on a diff way then the other member on here cause like i said no direction so i put them the way they look like there spinning right. but braking is improved and i, when u put on " performance" upgrades you tend to leave longevity behing from better materials wering faster not to say there going to crap out in like 3 months but i would not expect the pads more so than the rotors to last longer thena the oem ones but also thats all about how u drive ur car to and weather i supose.
#7
in the racing world, its pretty much concluded that drilling is more for looks. Drilled brakes cool down a bit quicker, but they also warm up much faster and are more prone to causing pads to crumble under high heat and to rotor warping. but tbh, if your not racing, it doesn't really matter... drilled rotors do look cool
When the pads/rotors get really hot, they form a thin layer of gas between the pad and rotor, making you lose stopping power. The vent's or hole's job is to provide a path for these gases to escape. While gas buildup in modern pads isnt anything close to what it was years ago, it still happens. today, this is only realistically a problem when you are breaking from high speed very often, ie when lapping on a road racing course.
A fairly new practice has been to cyrogenically treat the rotors. This involves freezing the rotor to about -300c, then slowing warming it back up. It strengthens the metal and makes it more resistant to warping. I just ordered a slottet set of cyro brakes, and I'll be putting them on soon. Since I'm also swapping to a larger caliper and going to better pads, I wont be able to give a fair 'its better', but it's what i went with after doing some research. I got the Power Stop Nitro Blast slotted rotors.
When the pads/rotors get really hot, they form a thin layer of gas between the pad and rotor, making you lose stopping power. The vent's or hole's job is to provide a path for these gases to escape. While gas buildup in modern pads isnt anything close to what it was years ago, it still happens. today, this is only realistically a problem when you are breaking from high speed very often, ie when lapping on a road racing course.
A fairly new practice has been to cyrogenically treat the rotors. This involves freezing the rotor to about -300c, then slowing warming it back up. It strengthens the metal and makes it more resistant to warping. I just ordered a slottet set of cyro brakes, and I'll be putting them on soon. Since I'm also swapping to a larger caliper and going to better pads, I wont be able to give a fair 'its better', but it's what i went with after doing some research. I got the Power Stop Nitro Blast slotted rotors.
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#10
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From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
in the racing world, its pretty much concluded that drilling is more for looks. Drilled brakes cool down a bit quicker, but they also warm up much faster and are more prone to causing pads to crumble under high heat and to rotor warping. but tbh, if your not racing, it doesn't really matter... drilled rotors do look cool
When the pads/rotors get really hot, they form a thin layer of gas between the pad and rotor, making you lose stopping power. The vent's or hole's job is to provide a path for these gases to escape. While gas buildup in modern pads isnt anything close to what it was years ago, it still happens. today, this is only realistically a problem when you are breaking from high speed very often, ie when lapping on a road racing course.
A fairly new practice has been to cyrogenically treat the rotors. This involves freezing the rotor to about -300c, then slowing warming it back up. It strengthens the metal and makes it more resistant to warping. I just ordered a slottet set of cyro brakes, and I'll be putting them on soon. Since I'm also swapping to a larger caliper and going to better pads, I wont be able to give a fair 'its better', but it's what i went with after doing some research. I got the Power Stop Nitro Blast slotted rotors.
When the pads/rotors get really hot, they form a thin layer of gas between the pad and rotor, making you lose stopping power. The vent's or hole's job is to provide a path for these gases to escape. While gas buildup in modern pads isnt anything close to what it was years ago, it still happens. today, this is only realistically a problem when you are breaking from high speed very often, ie when lapping on a road racing course.
A fairly new practice has been to cyrogenically treat the rotors. This involves freezing the rotor to about -300c, then slowing warming it back up. It strengthens the metal and makes it more resistant to warping. I just ordered a slottet set of cyro brakes, and I'll be putting them on soon. Since I'm also swapping to a larger caliper and going to better pads, I wont be able to give a fair 'its better', but it's what i went with after doing some research. I got the Power Stop Nitro Blast slotted rotors.
#11
Model number is JBR583CPR. They don't list them for the ralliart, but they should fit. Powerstop says they are for a 98 eclipse gsx. its a 10.9" rotor with a 5x114.3 bolt pattern, iirc, so it should fit just fine
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