E Brake Frozen
Mar 9, 2011, 08:20 PM
#16
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I think you misunderstood what I meant my caliper conversion. I have seen on some drift cars a hydraulic 2 piston brake caliper as well as a single piston caliper for the E-brake. I was just curious if there is anything that is generic or RA specific like this.
Mar 10, 2011, 10:12 AM
#17
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where you from mark?
i would check cables, the drums are not water tight by any means, but i don't think a lot of water would get in, and i highly doubt they would have time to freeze unless you leave it engaged over night, which i would not do, at least in the winter time, i only use it to park on a slope and want to leave it running...in the summer i will use it more, just to keep the cable moving so it doesn't seize...
i would check cables, the drums are not water tight by any means, but i don't think a lot of water would get in, and i highly doubt they would have time to freeze unless you leave it engaged over night, which i would not do, at least in the winter time, i only use it to park on a slope and want to leave it running...in the summer i will use it more, just to keep the cable moving so it doesn't seize...
im located in regina sask the car came from alberta at a adesa auction so its really cold pretty much all the time so it always freezes and its really anoying to brake it loose i have to put it in revers and give her a lil gas
probley not good but hey i gotta do what i gotta do till its fixed.
Mar 10, 2011, 10:18 AM
#18
There are several spots on the e brake setup that need to have grease on them the white silicone grease I forget what's its called. But where the levers rub against the dust shield/ caliper holder should have grease on them. I have greased mine twice because sometimes it doesn't fully disengage. Just an idea
Mar 11, 2011, 05:56 AM
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@ Mark, you ever have issues with Dilarwi over warranty work? I live in Regina as well and Dilarwi was the one that told me I have zero warranty on my E-brake because of my Tien springs.
Mar 12, 2011, 06:57 AM
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Mar 12, 2011, 08:03 PM
#21
i would think they wouldn't be covered for wear or abuse, but should be covered for premature failure...they should have to cover it unless they can prove the springs caused the problem, which is doubtful...it's like them trying to say the transmission is not covered because you changed your CD player...
i'm willing to bet new cables and springs, and some lube will sovle the problem...
just a guess though, only a thorough inspection will tell you for sure
i'm willing to bet new cables and springs, and some lube will sovle the problem...
just a guess though, only a thorough inspection will tell you for sure
Mar 13, 2011, 05:01 PM
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yes actually i made a appointment with them and when the day came i called to conferm it and there werent even open idk what the hell was going on there but w/e i dont trust those hacks with my car enyways, but on a non related subject we should go honda hunting on albert one night hahaha
Mar 14, 2011, 04:18 PM
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Mar 28, 2011, 02:02 PM
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So I'm in the process of 'temporarily removing' the park brake system and have come across a few things. 1) the heat from dragging park brake shoes is affecting my rotor, pads, and wheel bearing and 2) the heat could be felt all the way through the rim as close as the tire bead. Went to DSM dealership today and talk to the new service manager and the moment Tien springs were mentioned i got a prompt 'Can't help you' 
. Has anyone ever had a rotor seize on @ 95K km? Cuz this one is on there something fierce.
. Has anyone ever had a rotor seize on @ 95K km? Cuz this one is on there something fierce.
Apr 28, 2011, 07:27 AM
#28
I apply my handbrake whenever I park, no issues so far.
I have EBC discs, and I have not checked the OEM discs to see if they have them too, but there are 2 threaded holes in the disc near the wheel stud holes. You can just put screws or bolts in these and tighten them.
They press against the hub and push the disc off, no hammer required. I cannot say what size they are, I just found some screws that were laying about and they fit.
If the handbrake does not release, check the cable for sure. They can seize especially with a lack of use. If it is seized and you dont want to buy one, remove it, spray or apply WD 40 such that it runs down the inner cable into the outer. Keep doing this until it runs out the other side. If after 30 minutes none comes out, spin the cable over head as hard as you can, you will see the WD 40 finally making it out. At this stage you will notice the cable moving a tad easier. Then apply oil like engine oil to the cable as you did with the WD 40 and wait till it too runs out. Work the cable as much as you can till it moves freely.
I have EBC discs, and I have not checked the OEM discs to see if they have them too, but there are 2 threaded holes in the disc near the wheel stud holes. You can just put screws or bolts in these and tighten them.
They press against the hub and push the disc off, no hammer required. I cannot say what size they are, I just found some screws that were laying about and they fit.
If the handbrake does not release, check the cable for sure. They can seize especially with a lack of use. If it is seized and you dont want to buy one, remove it, spray or apply WD 40 such that it runs down the inner cable into the outer. Keep doing this until it runs out the other side. If after 30 minutes none comes out, spin the cable over head as hard as you can, you will see the WD 40 finally making it out. At this stage you will notice the cable moving a tad easier. Then apply oil like engine oil to the cable as you did with the WD 40 and wait till it too runs out. Work the cable as much as you can till it moves freely.
Last edited by 2006_RA; Apr 28, 2011 at 07:41 AM.
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