E Brake Frozen
Mar 5, 2011, 09:02 AM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
E Brake Frozen
So here's the question, were Mitsubishi's designed to -30 C? My '06 RA has some odd E-Brake problems. I had it freeze early this year. I took it into my local Mitsu dealership and their cleaned and adjusted my brake assembly in the rotor and the cable as well but the problem is there. Does anyone know of anyway to fix this or a possible conversion with a separate caliper?
Mar 5, 2011, 07:56 PM
#2
E brake has nothing to do with the calipers, what exactly are the symptoms of the "freezing"?
e.g. does it remain engaged, or does not engage? is it happening with the e brake or the foot brake as well...i guess if water got inside the drum it could freeze, but that would happen at -10 as well which isn't that cold...
we've had -25 and below in barrie ontario a few times, and i have not had any problems with brakes....transmission feels like it's full of soft serve ice cream...but nothing out of the ordinary for the braking system...
e.g. does it remain engaged, or does not engage? is it happening with the e brake or the foot brake as well...i guess if water got inside the drum it could freeze, but that would happen at -10 as well which isn't that cold...
we've had -25 and below in barrie ontario a few times, and i have not had any problems with brakes....transmission feels like it's full of soft serve ice cream...but nothing out of the ordinary for the braking system...
Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Mar 5, 2011 at 08:00 PM.
Mar 6, 2011, 12:13 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whenever the temperature dips below 0 the E-brake lever inside the car gets stiff and takes more than the required force to apply the E-brake. Once applied the brake remains applied even after the lever has been returned to a disengaged position. Dealership still cant figure it out (I dont think they want to because I got in an argument with the service manager that the whole thing should still be under warranty even with .5" drop Tein coils.) but besides the point I just wanna E-brake in the snow 
. If I leave the car in a heated shop it will usually thaw and work again but once outside I'm back to square one.
. If I leave the car in a heated shop it will usually thaw and work again but once outside I'm back to square one.
Mar 7, 2011, 09:20 AM
#6
roblaza i just replaced both e brake assemblies minus the cables, the shoes are a pain in the *** to find...they are AKEBONO part# AK L610 FF
even if the springs were weak or missing the brake should not stick...if the cable is not returning to the normal position that would cause them to lock up...it would probably take an hour or so to replace them...
even if the springs were weak or missing the brake should not stick...if the cable is not returning to the normal position that would cause them to lock up...it would probably take an hour or so to replace them...
Trending Topics
Mar 7, 2011, 08:57 PM
#9
that's what i would do, cause then you can visually see if it's engaging, then returning to normal
you'll need a 14mm socket, 3/8 drive ratchet preferred, hammer, a 3-4" C-clamp, some silicon brake grease...pull the lower brake pin, and rotate the caliper upward, tap the rotor with the hammer (on the drum part) and you should be able to pull it off...also check the linkage between the cable and brake shoe, it may need to be lubed, but to get at the hinge, you'll need to disassemble the brake...for that you need needle nose pliers and a screwdriver for poking...lol
you'll need a 14mm socket, 3/8 drive ratchet preferred, hammer, a 3-4" C-clamp, some silicon brake grease...pull the lower brake pin, and rotate the caliper upward, tap the rotor with the hammer (on the drum part) and you should be able to pull it off...also check the linkage between the cable and brake shoe, it may need to be lubed, but to get at the hinge, you'll need to disassemble the brake...for that you need needle nose pliers and a screwdriver for poking...lol
Mar 7, 2011, 09:02 PM
#10
forgive me for intruding... but do the ralliarts have the same drum style ebrake as the evo's? if so is it at all possible you are getting water in the drum area either from snow or puddles and it locking down the assembly... i'm in texas... this year i had 2'' of snow... sorry i mean 5cm's lol... and it dipped to 30 degrees at 4 am and was 50 midday... i dont have to deal with these issues...
Mar 9, 2011, 09:27 AM
#13
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: canada
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So here's the question, were Mitsubishi's designed to -30 C? My '06 RA has some odd E-Brake problems. I had it freeze early this year. I took it into my local Mitsu dealership and their cleaned and adjusted my brake assembly in the rotor and the cable as well but the problem is there. Does anyone know of anyway to fix this or a possible conversion with a separate caliper?
I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!!!!!! if u figure it out PM ME!!!
Mar 9, 2011, 01:44 PM
#14
where you from mark?
i would check cables, the drums are not water tight by any means, but i don't think a lot of water would get in, and i highly doubt they would have time to freeze unless you leave it engaged over night, which i would not do, at least in the winter time, i only use it to park on a slope and want to leave it running...in the summer i will use it more, just to keep the cable moving so it doesn't seize...
i would check cables, the drums are not water tight by any means, but i don't think a lot of water would get in, and i highly doubt they would have time to freeze unless you leave it engaged over night, which i would not do, at least in the winter time, i only use it to park on a slope and want to leave it running...in the summer i will use it more, just to keep the cable moving so it doesn't seize...
Mar 9, 2011, 08:14 PM
#15
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any time I apply the park brake it will stick on. All I wanted to do was E-brake slide with my RA this winter and I couldn't but alas winter is almost done so at least I can get it fixed for next winter. The service manager also told me that Mitsubishi has the E-brake lever set for gradual application the further it is pulled up unlike most other vehicles where it gets to a certain point then grabs. Is this true or the dealer trying to pull some more BS with me?