Front lower control arm nightmare
#1
Front lower control arm nightmare
Ok, so i bought some front lower control arm bushings...
these (whiteline, forward bushing)
and these (not the spark plugs, durr) (generic OE replacement, aft bushing)
So today i got around to installing them...the problem was with the whiteline bushings...once i had the lower control arm out, i was checking it over to see if the forward bushings would fit, they are the correct length and diameter, however the problem is with the inner metal sleeve...the sleeve's inside diameter looks to be about 2mm shy of the outside diameter of the bolt that's supposed to go through it...odd, as i'm fairly certain the base lancer uses the same bolt...so somewhere on earth, between 2002 and 2007, a lancer was made with a smaller bolt, or whiteline f'ed up, and packaged the wrong sleeves...who knows...anyway so here's the confirmation...
so i have 2 options, have the sleeves bored, or ask whiteline if they make a sleeve with that outside diameter, but a larger inside diameter...i'll call whiteline first...
the aft bushing, you need a hydraulic press and a 1-5/8" socket...it's fairly simple...
OH YES! the nightmare! i almost forgot
So the right lower control arm came out not problem...the left side? not so much...the horizontal bolt that goes through the forward bushing came out about 5mm and then just started spinning...great, it's sheared...nope! it's not sheared, the entire bolt is spinning freely, and won't tighten or loosen...WTF!?!? only one way to find out...make a hole...here's what i found:
The bolt threads into a nut, which is not welded, or part of the crossmember/subframe in any way shape or form...it is merely held from spinning freely by a flimsy sheet metal locking tab...no wonder it won't come out...
After trying to wedge it with a large screwdriver, i tried welding it to the frame, no go on both attempts, which left me with one choice...Nick was right all along...cut a big *** hole and get a wrench on it...FYI it is 21mm on the inside nut and 19mm on the bolt head. I eventually made the hole a bit bigger and was able to get it off by holding the nuts with a wrench, and putting an impact on the bolt...
It wasn't fun...it pretty much killed the day, but Nick (RalliartN) bought me a beer, and his wife brought me food and coffee, so it wasn't that bad after all...here's some more pics...oh and Nick put swift springs on his car...moderate drop, not as agressive in the front as the Tein's but very clean looking...
and Nick's car with the swift springs...
these (whiteline, forward bushing)
and these (not the spark plugs, durr) (generic OE replacement, aft bushing)
So today i got around to installing them...the problem was with the whiteline bushings...once i had the lower control arm out, i was checking it over to see if the forward bushings would fit, they are the correct length and diameter, however the problem is with the inner metal sleeve...the sleeve's inside diameter looks to be about 2mm shy of the outside diameter of the bolt that's supposed to go through it...odd, as i'm fairly certain the base lancer uses the same bolt...so somewhere on earth, between 2002 and 2007, a lancer was made with a smaller bolt, or whiteline f'ed up, and packaged the wrong sleeves...who knows...anyway so here's the confirmation...
so i have 2 options, have the sleeves bored, or ask whiteline if they make a sleeve with that outside diameter, but a larger inside diameter...i'll call whiteline first...
the aft bushing, you need a hydraulic press and a 1-5/8" socket...it's fairly simple...
OH YES! the nightmare! i almost forgot
So the right lower control arm came out not problem...the left side? not so much...the horizontal bolt that goes through the forward bushing came out about 5mm and then just started spinning...great, it's sheared...nope! it's not sheared, the entire bolt is spinning freely, and won't tighten or loosen...WTF!?!? only one way to find out...make a hole...here's what i found:
The bolt threads into a nut, which is not welded, or part of the crossmember/subframe in any way shape or form...it is merely held from spinning freely by a flimsy sheet metal locking tab...no wonder it won't come out...
After trying to wedge it with a large screwdriver, i tried welding it to the frame, no go on both attempts, which left me with one choice...Nick was right all along...cut a big *** hole and get a wrench on it...FYI it is 21mm on the inside nut and 19mm on the bolt head. I eventually made the hole a bit bigger and was able to get it off by holding the nuts with a wrench, and putting an impact on the bolt...
It wasn't fun...it pretty much killed the day, but Nick (RalliartN) bought me a beer, and his wife brought me food and coffee, so it wasn't that bad after all...here's some more pics...oh and Nick put swift springs on his car...moderate drop, not as agressive in the front as the Tein's but very clean looking...
and Nick's car with the swift springs...
#2
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
postscript: while the barmaid was tapping the draught beers and we were quietly remembering the bottom of his car catching on fire during the failed mig welding attempt to secure the hidden nut, I got the keys to Cranswick's car with new turbo - I drove around the block where the police station is so had to restrain myself, but it's sorted very nicely! Looking forward to a real rip on country backroads soon.
Now I have Greenstuff pads to bed in then 60-to-zero stopping distances to record, and Swift springs to evaluate. Was a productive modding day.
Now I have Greenstuff pads to bed in then 60-to-zero stopping distances to record, and Swift springs to evaluate. Was a productive modding day.
#3
iTrader: (15)
Well nice attempt cranswick , it's very close. The local hardware store might even have some steel spacers that would fit. Worth a try anyway.
RalliartN the ebc greens are nice, I keep bouncing back and forth from the greens to the reds. I'm putting reds on the ra and greens on my 4g69 galant soon.
Keep up guys and keep the results coming
RalliartN the ebc greens are nice, I keep bouncing back and forth from the greens to the reds. I'm putting reds on the ra and greens on my 4g69 galant soon.
Keep up guys and keep the results coming
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Once again Cranswick makes himself a guinea pig for us and we are grateful. I'll buy you a six pack too buddy. Just let me know when you're coming to town for that tune. What do you like ?
I really wish I did live closer to you guys, that's a great workshop there.
I am starting to think that anytime you tackle suspension arms on our cars, you should just buy new bolts up front and be ready to savage the current ones.
Now on to Nick's thread ...
I really wish I did live closer to you guys, that's a great workshop there.
I am starting to think that anytime you tackle suspension arms on our cars, you should just buy new bolts up front and be ready to savage the current ones.
Now on to Nick's thread ...
#6
Once again Cranswick makes himself a guinea pig for us and we are grateful. I'll buy you a six pack too buddy. Just let me know when you're coming to town for that tune. What do you like ?
I really wish I did live closer to you guys, that's a great workshop there.
I am starting to think that anytime you tackle suspension arms on our cars, you should just buy new bolts up front and be ready to savage the current ones.
Now on to Nick's thread ...
I really wish I did live closer to you guys, that's a great workshop there.
I am starting to think that anytime you tackle suspension arms on our cars, you should just buy new bolts up front and be ready to savage the current ones.
Now on to Nick's thread ...
yeah the shop is amazing, thank you Nick.
And it doesn't matter if you get a new bolt, because you have to cut a hole in the crossmember to remove or replace the nut, and it has no part number because it's part of the assembly
Yeah, anytime it's available, Nick usually gives me a few weeks notice, so if i have stuff to do i can wait, or i might even just buy stuff to put on the car...i don't like to pass up an opportunity to put the car on a lift...jack stands in the driveway is not a fun way to work...but that's how i do most of it...
#7
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Alexander Keith's pale.
yeah the shop is amazing, thank you Nick.
And it doesn't matter if you get a new bolt, because you have to cut a hole in the crossmember to remove or replace the nut, and it has no part number because it's part of the assembly
Yeah, anytime it's available, Nick usually gives me a few weeks notice, so if i have stuff to do i can wait, or i might even just buy stuff to put on the car...i don't like to pass up an opportunity to put the car on a lift...jack stands in the driveway is not a fun way to work...but that's how i do most of it...
yeah the shop is amazing, thank you Nick.
And it doesn't matter if you get a new bolt, because you have to cut a hole in the crossmember to remove or replace the nut, and it has no part number because it's part of the assembly
Yeah, anytime it's available, Nick usually gives me a few weeks notice, so if i have stuff to do i can wait, or i might even just buy stuff to put on the car...i don't like to pass up an opportunity to put the car on a lift...jack stands in the driveway is not a fun way to work...but that's how i do most of it...
In this one case it doesn't matter, but in general, especially on the rear it seems better to go in with a reciprocal saw than sockets and spanners. Between what you happened to you and another thread from a guy changing his rears shocks, it made me check the bolts on the back of my car yesterday. Result, left side is good, right side shock to bottom arm is well seized. I put some grease on the ones that moved and greased the sway bar bushings too. I hope it lasts till next year when I plan to change the shocks. I did not touch any of the bolts that affect alignment. At least now I know to go at it with a seek and destroy mindset with new bolts waiting to go in.
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#8
In this one case it doesn't matter, but in general, especially on the rear it seems better to go in with a reciprocal saw than sockets and spanners. Between what you happened to you and another thread from a guy changing his rears shocks, it made me check the bolts on the back of my car yesterday. Result, left side is good, right side shock to bottom arm is well seized. I put some grease on the ones that moved and greased the sway bar bushings too. I hope it lasts till next year when I plan to change the shocks. I did not touch any of the bolts that affect alignment. At least now I know to go at it with a seek and destroy mindset with new bolts waiting to go in.
#9
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
2006RA, if you had a nasty bunch of stuff to do on the car you could bring all the parts, we could go into the shop on a weekend, and you could use all the resources in there. Cranswick would go for coffees. We would do a power play to get everything done on the hoist with strong air tools and torches and stuff. Then we would discuss the day over a couple of
I know it's next year, and a long drive from Ottawa, probably not worth it to you, but think about it.
I know it's next year, and a long drive from Ottawa, probably not worth it to you, but think about it.
#12
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#14
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
2006RA, if you had a nasty bunch of stuff to do on the car you could bring all the parts, we could go into the shop on a weekend, and you could use all the resources in there. Cranswick would go for coffees. We would do a power play to get everything done on the hoist with strong air tools and torches and stuff. Then we would discuss the day over a couple of
I know it's next year, and a long drive from Ottawa, probably not worth it to you, but think about it.
I know it's next year, and a long drive from Ottawa, probably not worth it to you, but think about it.
That's a very sweet offer RalliartN which I may just take up.
I have a few things planned for the suspension next year. As long as things work out, I am looking at changing all the arms at the back, the bushings on the front lower arms and new shocks with Swifts.
Yes, it's a long drive but in a place like that we could do all in a morning. The only issue would be getting the back end somewhat true for the 300 km drive back, but I am sure by that time I wont care about these tyres anymore, so as long as I am not opposite locking all the way to keep straight not a big deal.
It would be worth it just to hang out after anyway and to be able to tell my father that I got to use a lift .