Ladogaboy

iTrader: (1)

Just out of curiosity, have you heard of the phrase "cost benefit analysis"? Right now, the only BBK available for the RA is made by K Sport, and for the 13" system, it is $2,500 each for front and rear. $5k is a lot of money to spend on a car. If that car happens to be a dedicated track car, then that money might be worth it. If that car is a daily driver, then that $5k might be better spent elsewhere.

Here's an example. If you had these choices for a daily driven car (I'm just making this numbers up, so go with me):

1. Spend $5k to cut 60-0 braking distance by 20 feet and brake fade by 50%
2. Spend $1,500 to cut 60-0 braking distance by 15 and brake fade by 25%
3. Spend $500 to cut 60-0 braking distance by 20 feet and brake fade by 5%

Which would you choose? At that point you'd have to do a cost-benefit analysis and determine which actually met your needs. If you were a part-time track guy/auto-x/daily driver, #2 might be the best option. If you were a dedicated race/track guy, option #1 would make sense. If you were a family man, maybe occasionally tracked or autocrossed, but mostly daily drove your car, #3 seems like the right option to me. Again, those are ficticious numbers, but they do somewhat represent the reality of how these brake mods would play out.

The reason I added option #2 the way I did is because I know people who have experienced it. From what I've seen, #2 best represents what would happen if you elected to swap in a brake kit from another car, both in cost and performance.My friend, who traded in his GSX (with aftermarket rotors and pads, but nothing else) for an EVO VIII, saw a very noticeable decrease in breaking performance for the street. Once the EVO's brakes warmed up, however, it was a different story.

The point of all of this is that a BBK, no matter how you define it, might not be the right modification for a daily driven car, even if you were to get a cheaper set, such as from a swap.

GPTourer

Right now its very early on. I don't know what might come out for the RA later. I don't know how much it would cost to get Evo brakes on an RA. I don't know how much performance that K SPort kit offers. I do know what it would take to get Evo VIII/IX brakes on a DSM. I am not trying to suggest how much is too much for a person to spend. If 5 grand is too much for you so be it, but that doesn't mean other more palatable options may come along, especially since the cars are almost completely interchangable at this point. I've seen an EVO BBK on a 2G DSM. A front Baer kit for a DSM is like, $850. It might not take much to get something like that adapted to a Lancer. OTOH, no body ever said this hobby was cheap. Once you start pushing the limits of performance, the laws of diminishing returns start to come into play.

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

What are you talking about? There are also times when I openly recommend car and point out it's positive aspects. Sure I don't buy into the "Ralliart is the best thing ever" fanboyism, I provide actual data.
I suggested, that rather than spend thousands for an aftermarket BBK, they salvage parts from the Evo. It was a suggestion for those that want to upgrade the parts. Does it mean I think it's necessary? No, I stand by my statements but it doesn't hurt to tell people an alternative option.
So because someone feels they need something, it completely dismisses hard science? I know guys who feel they need a 20G for their daily driver but it doesn't magically reduce lag.

GPTourer

To get EVO VIII/IX brakes on a 2G DSM:
The calipers are going for about $500 on ebay.
Evo Rotors any where from $250 on up for new ones
JDM knuckles from a Galant VR-4 $400-$450
Lines $100
Miscelleanous Hardware $60

...and of course some wheels with the correct offset and enough backspacing to fit them.

Total: $1300-$1400. So this isn't peanuts either, but at least you get front and back. You can spend that much on a front kit for a DSM from like, Rotora. Might add a little more to have the calipers rebuilt and painted since they are likely warranty takeoffs for bad paint. I think this is a great idea for a lot of Mitsus.

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

It may be simpler for the Ralliart since they won't need the JDM knuckles.

Ladogaboy

iTrader: (1)

Which, if I am correct, is amby's point. Most of us are never going to push our cars to their performance limits, so why should we pay so much for performance we are not even going to use. Yes, it's true that prices will go down and options will increase, but the issue in question is big brake kits on a daily driven car. Sure, those BBKs might drop to more reasonable prices (people might even find ways to adapt superior brakes from other cars), but as the price of BBKs drop, so do the prices of the other cheaper options (which might still be a better choice for a daily driven car). And as for the brake swaps: I can guarantee that what you save it money, you will spend in time and labor.

Also, imo, one of the main reasons for any car (track or daily driven) to switch to aftermarket brakes is to reduce unsprung weight. Many times, a BBK does not do that, and in the case of brake swaps, I'm not sure if it ever does.

Regardless, for right now, I do not need brakes, so I am going to weigh my options carefully. Yes, pun intended.

GPTourer

I really don't know what his point is and frankly I don't care. He likes to preach and pass judgment on what he thinks people should and shouldn't do based on his value systems. I've just shown you that there are more options then $5000 worth of brakes on an RA, so you can plug that into your cost to benefits analysis and see what works for you.

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

This right here says it all, you don't give a **** what my point is and clearly don't bother to read my posts, you just want to argue with me. You haven't contributed at all to the topic of 09 RA vs. 09 WRX, you haven't posted any data to support your claims (if you even have any), you just noticed I posted, got your panties in a bunch and came flying at me, ****ing up another thread in the process. You say you've
well news ****ing flash, that was already established before you showed up with your "gotta protect Mitsubishi" flag. I already stated that the Evo swap was possible and I already suggested that people start with pads and fluid. You clearly missed this and are now attempting to argue for nothing. Christ, you should put a bit of tape over your monitor so you can't see who posts what, I bet you wouldn't be going off on these huge tangents if someone else posted exactly what I did. The hypocrisy is astonishing, you argue that I preach and pass judgment yet here you are, going after me once again for stating my opinion and providing data to back it up. Seriously, get a life, this act is getting old and it does more damage to this forum than I could ever do.

This was my first post, sure seems judgmental and anti-Mitsubishi to me .

My next post contained the actual Edmund's data in question, again, oh so judgmental.

Ladogaboy

iTrader: (1)

Are there any threads dedicated to how to do this swap? A DIY or How To would be very helpful.

madcows

I haven't seen any evo brake swaps on an R/A yet. I assume the knuckle would need to be changed - so therefore it might mean that even the lower control arm, and strut would too.

Ladogaboy

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, but until someone does it and records the procedure, we're all still just guessing whether it will work.

ambystom01

iTrader: (7)

No but quite some time ago it was suggested that it was certainly feasible.

BillCosbysPudding

iTrader: (3)

what happened to just using your heels to brake?