toredefine

iTrader: (6)

I just finished installing my Evo X IC and upper piping. I stayed with the lower piping, though. I had to buy two couplers, one where the upper piping meets the IC, and another where the IC meets the lower pipe. I got them in a 2.0 inch inner diameter. They stretched out to the extra 3/16" difference (or around there), so it worked out perfectly, so far. But the couplers I bought, are for plumbing applications and I'm just hoping they hold up (as far as high temp.'s go).

I am a bit nervous, to be honest. The Evo X IC didn't line up to the mounting spots 100%. I had to push and shove, about half-an-inch, holding it in place while my brother screwed in the bolts. I don't know how the piping will react to this added stress.

Drove it to work this morning, stepped on the accelerator a couple times to make sure it holds up, and it seems okay.

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

Awesome work. How long did it take to install? The LICP is what too me the longest.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

shouldnt be much of a problem, fitment wise, as long as everything is snug. it took a little bit of maneuvering for me too when i was trying to line up all the mounting bolts, especially the two holding the uicp to the upper radiator support. i dont think the couplers will be an issue since they are on the front of the car and will be seeing a decent amount of airflow to keep them relatively cool. if it concerns you that much, you can always go to a performance shop and have them do a boost leak test. shouldnt be more than 50 bucks or so to test the whole system and tweak anything that needs adjustment

2010 Rallihead

is the lower really necessary to have or will i be fine with just the upper pipe installed with a AMS intercooler.

toredefine

iTrader: (6)

I kept my stock lower intercooler pipe. I only changed out the upper pipe and the intercooler. The lower pipe still works/fits. You'll just need a shorter coupler AND the coupler should be straight, NOT a step like 2" to 2.5" coupler for instance.

By the way, it took me 4 hours to do my swap, without replacing the lower pipe, for others to be prepared. Taking off the bumper scared me a bit, though. I thought I would damage it, but it's pretty flexible.

Jack Dempsey

I recently installed the EVO X LICP on my RA exactly as described in this thread.

This pipe has a total of 3 attaching points as you can see on the picture. Points 1 & 2 align perfectly with the car structure. But I got an issue with the point 3 at location A. The bolt doesn't align with the bracket under the battery tray. I completed the installation without this bolt 3 and the LICP seems to be well fixed with only two bolts. But now, when I ride my car I hear a noise from the engine bay. I think it's the non attached point 3 that vibrates & fouls with the bracket at location A.

Did you got this issue & what should I do to solve my problem? Is there other information I should know about this installation?




Maybe we did a mistake & the attaching point 3 should be on the other side of the bracket as shown on this picture below (forward the bracket under the battery tray):



Help me please...

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

Hey Jack,
I personally did not have a metal to metal vibration from the LICP brace and battery bracket. However, this can easily be fixed even though you have already installed the LICP. Your battery sits on two RG brackets that sit side by side to form one. Remove the front battery bracket and bend the third LICP brace forward (towards your headlights) enough to clear the first RG battery bracket you just took off. Reinstall the battery bracket, attach the third LICP brace to the battery bracket, and battery accordingly.

Please let me know how it works out and upload new pics of the fix for others.

Thanks,
Jesse (Splatzjackson)

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

This may be a good time to post an update on what intercooler pipes I currently have installed on my car. I installed Cobb's intercooler pipes and intake. It doesn't fit exactly as it might an Evo X but it is doable. The key to the entire install is getting a Evo X turbo compressor outlet because the Evo X is angle slightly different than the RA (what was the purpose of this Mits?). Sorry I don't have install pics but it was late and I did it real quick. Anyway, look at the pics.

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

Attachment 155521

Attachment 155522

Attachment 155523

If anyone is considering buying these pipes for their RA please give me a shout. I will give you more details before you make the purchase.

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

Also in case you didn't notice. My battery was moved to the trunk. Special thanks (kudos) to Athmak15 for that!

Rocky_RA

Was it hard to put the battery in the trunk?

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

Not too hard. You buy a battery kit at your local part store run the battery cables to the trunk like you would if you were installing subwoofers. You cut two grooves in the styrofoam as picture below hook up the cables and you are good to go.

Full view

Pics of the two grooves you need to cut out





You only need to cut grooves in the front because the back two corner match perfectly.


Kudos to Athmak15 for the install

Rocky_RA

Thanks Splatz really appreciate this , it was my next mod and I wanted to be sure so I would do it right

mikesim

that's really neat, but how is it tied down? our auto-x techs are insane about properly tieing down the battery.

Splatzjackson

iTrader: (15)

If you cut the grooves right you won't need to bolt it down. Cut the corner grooves shorter than it appears. Styrofoam is flexible and you can force the battery in so that it is fits tight. I've been driving with it for three months now and it hasn't budged. However, if you are concerned about it being bolted down you can get a kit to do so. It will just cost alot more than my $50 fix.