"Break-In" Period / New Turbo Car Owner Questions
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"Break-In" Period / New Turbo Car Owner Questions
Hello! I've just purchased a brand new 2011 Lancer Ralliart and I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on the "break-in" period concept? I've Google searched and read previous posts on this forum, but the responses are scattered and often without facts/links to support them:
- Drive like a granny.
- Drive it hard.
- Do "something" for "x" miles, then "something else" for "y" miles, then change the oil at "z" miles.
- Accelerate/decelerate a lot.
- Don't go over 55 MPH.
- Don't stay at the same RPM for "x" amount of time.
- Read the manual, noob.
- Drive it like you "normally" would.
- Don't worry about it, factory breaks it in.
etc.
Any help in this area would be appreciated. Oddly, I have looked through the manual and couldn't find anything on a required "break-in" period. I'll look again after I post this in-case I've missed something, though.
EDIT: Completely missed it on page 3-2.
In addition, I've already floored it, made a round trip from Orange County to Inland Valley (no cruise control) and a round trip from Inland Valley to Mt. Baldy. The ODO is still well under 300 miles. By doing this have I damaged the vehicle or caused any long-term performance loss?
EDIT: The manual both makes this seem like no problem and bad at the same time (derp). Can't really do anything about what's already been done, I just hope it I haven't caused too much damage. Will exercise restraint from this point on! I wish the dealer had explained the break-in period
Also, what is the minimum octane rating required for Ralliarts? I used 91 with the gas ticket from the dealer but if I can go lower to save the extra 10c/gallon that would be great.
EDIT: 93 octane recommend by the manual. To clarify, I wasn't looking for the "cheap" option. I knew full well what I was buying with this car. I just wasn't sure on what classified "premium" fuel (I've only ever pressed the 87 button :P). It didn't help that the station that the gas ticket was for didn't have premium (odd considering South Coast Mitsubishi sells a ton of Evo's).
Thanks in advanced! Bonus points to anyone who uses proper punctuation and doesn't spell like a 13 year old girl texting someone.
- Drive like a granny.
- Drive it hard.
- Do "something" for "x" miles, then "something else" for "y" miles, then change the oil at "z" miles.
- Accelerate/decelerate a lot.
- Don't go over 55 MPH.
- Don't stay at the same RPM for "x" amount of time.
- Read the manual, noob.
- Drive it like you "normally" would.
- Don't worry about it, factory breaks it in.
etc.
Any help in this area would be appreciated. Oddly, I have looked through the manual and couldn't find anything on a required "break-in" period. I'll look again after I post this in-case I've missed something, though.
EDIT: Completely missed it on page 3-2.
Originally Posted by 2011 Lancer Manual Page 3-2
Advanced automobile manufacturing techniques permit you to operate your new vehicle without requiring a long break-in period of low-speed driving.
However, you can add to the future performance and economy of the vehicle by observing the following precautions during the first 300 miles.
- Drive your vehicle at moderate speeds during the break-in period.
- Avoid revving the engine. Fore vehicles with turbocharger, do not exceed 5,000 RPM for the first 600 miles.
- Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, sudden acceleration, prolonged high-speed driving and sudden braking. These would have detrimental effect on the engine and also cause increased fuel and oil consumption, which could result in malfunction of the engine components. Be particularly careful to avoid full acceleration while in low gear.
- Do not overload the vehicle (see "cargo load precautions" on page 4-12).
- Do not use this vehicle for trailer towing.
However, you can add to the future performance and economy of the vehicle by observing the following precautions during the first 300 miles.
- Drive your vehicle at moderate speeds during the break-in period.
- Avoid revving the engine. Fore vehicles with turbocharger, do not exceed 5,000 RPM for the first 600 miles.
- Avoid rough driving such as fast starts, sudden acceleration, prolonged high-speed driving and sudden braking. These would have detrimental effect on the engine and also cause increased fuel and oil consumption, which could result in malfunction of the engine components. Be particularly careful to avoid full acceleration while in low gear.
- Do not overload the vehicle (see "cargo load precautions" on page 4-12).
- Do not use this vehicle for trailer towing.
EDIT: The manual both makes this seem like no problem and bad at the same time (derp). Can't really do anything about what's already been done, I just hope it I haven't caused too much damage. Will exercise restraint from this point on! I wish the dealer had explained the break-in period
Also, what is the minimum octane rating required for Ralliarts? I used 91 with the gas ticket from the dealer but if I can go lower to save the extra 10c/gallon that would be great.
EDIT: 93 octane recommend by the manual. To clarify, I wasn't looking for the "cheap" option. I knew full well what I was buying with this car. I just wasn't sure on what classified "premium" fuel (I've only ever pressed the 87 button :P). It didn't help that the station that the gas ticket was for didn't have premium (odd considering South Coast Mitsubishi sells a ton of Evo's).
Thanks in advanced! Bonus points to anyone who uses proper punctuation and doesn't spell like a 13 year old girl texting someone.
Last edited by AMT; Nov 21, 2010 at 10:51 PM. Reason: Answers for anyone else wondering the same thing.
#2
I say read the manual if this is your first AWD+TURBO car there's a lot to learn on this car... Among other things is BS drive like normal and warm up your car everytime on cold start for about 5 minutes the SST works really well when warmed up.. Break in period is 3K miles but to be safe is 5k... Like the gas cap said "PREMIUM ONLY"
Last edited by chazyronnie; Nov 21, 2010 at 11:49 PM.
#3
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http://www.novustechnic.com/breakin_1.htm
can you use under 91 octane? wow. look in the manual, just like what you already found from searching.
in before lock.
can you use under 91 octane? wow. look in the manual, just like what you already found from searching.
in before lock.
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lol(grammar police), lower then premium? If the extra 10c a gallon is too much id suggest investing in a gts.
The car is actually meant for 93+ but 91 is just fine on the stock tune.
As for the break in period, there is no wrong or right. The turbo isnt going to explode at redline at 9-10 psi (which is stock redline pressure) regardless of how many miles are on the car. No amount of idling, highway driving, or abusive racing will yeild any noticable difference.
Just drive it, and enjoy it. IF you want to really enjoy it, get it tuned. There is rougly 45-50 whp waiting for your approval to hop out and join if it you let it.
Did i get any extra awesome points?
The car is actually meant for 93+ but 91 is just fine on the stock tune.
As for the break in period, there is no wrong or right. The turbo isnt going to explode at redline at 9-10 psi (which is stock redline pressure) regardless of how many miles are on the car. No amount of idling, highway driving, or abusive racing will yeild any noticable difference.
Just drive it, and enjoy it. IF you want to really enjoy it, get it tuned. There is rougly 45-50 whp waiting for your approval to hop out and join if it you let it.
Did i get any extra awesome points?
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lol(grammar police), lower then premium? If the extra 10c a gallon is too much id suggest investing in a gts.
The car is actually meant for 93+ but 91 is just fine on the stock tune.
As for the break in period, there is no wrong or right. The turbo isnt going to explode at redline at 9-10 psi (which is stock redline pressure) regardless of how many miles are on the car. No amount of idling, highway driving, or abusive racing will yeild any noticable difference.
Just drive it, and enjoy it. IF you want to really enjoy it, get it tuned. There is rougly 45-50 whp waiting for your approval to hop out and join if it you let it.
Did i get any extra awesome points?
The car is actually meant for 93+ but 91 is just fine on the stock tune.
As for the break in period, there is no wrong or right. The turbo isnt going to explode at redline at 9-10 psi (which is stock redline pressure) regardless of how many miles are on the car. No amount of idling, highway driving, or abusive racing will yeild any noticable difference.
Just drive it, and enjoy it. IF you want to really enjoy it, get it tuned. There is rougly 45-50 whp waiting for your approval to hop out and join if it you let it.
Did i get any extra awesome points?
And I'm not a grammar **** . It's just that reading through most of the posts on this forum gives me a headache due to the lack of punctuation.
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#8
There's a lot of information here that will help you understand how the RA behaves. Like the manual said just take it easy and drive normal... You can sleep well tonight man. Enjoy your RA.
#9
I wouldn't worry about the motor as much as the transmission. Hyundai tested their version of the 4b11t in the new sonata (both motors are built off of the same platform) by redlining it for 300 hours followed by double and triple stints of 20 hours each. That's 400 hours of wide open throttle. Consider if it were 2 hours of WOT a day, it would be like, nearly 7 months.
Just give it adequate time to warm up before beating on it and let it cool for about a minute before shutting it down if it's been in boost right before shutdown.
Just give it adequate time to warm up before beating on it and let it cool for about a minute before shutting it down if it's been in boost right before shutdown.
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Change the oil between 1000 and 1500 miles ( many little metallic pieces from new moving parts)
Keep her under 5K rpm for the first 2000 to 2500 miles.
this is self tested. had an RASB that was slipping from 2-3 and 3-2 shift (@3700 miles). traded in for a brand new one (8.5 miles) and now at 3800 miles still drives like silk.
Keep her under 5K rpm for the first 2000 to 2500 miles.
this is self tested. had an RASB that was slipping from 2-3 and 3-2 shift (@3700 miles). traded in for a brand new one (8.5 miles) and now at 3800 miles still drives like silk.
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Edit: Nevermind! Can flash myself, awesome. However I know the car is supposed to run with 93 octane, would it be worth it to have it tuned on a dyno with 91 since 93 is not really available anymore?
Last edited by AMT; Nov 24, 2010 at 09:52 AM.
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I've driven mine hard since day 1. Swapped the X turbo on at 2000 miles and had it tuned. No problems here. I also changed over to mobil 1 full synthetic oil after the swap.
As far as octane, get tuned on what you will be running. I got tuned on 93 and now I can only get gas at 1 station. I do occasionally run 91 when I am out of town and can't find 93 but I generally take it easy.
As far as octane, get tuned on what you will be running. I got tuned on 93 and now I can only get gas at 1 station. I do occasionally run 91 when I am out of town and can't find 93 but I generally take it easy.
#13
I broke mine in during the same 300 miles period, and a few times i drove it at 70 to 75 mph, and forgot that i had a new 2012. then i started to take it easy and slow down until the 300 miles were up. now i do 90 mph and the car has only 900 miles on the odo. but she feels great and idle curb ingition rpm is always at 700rpm.
i think the cars will survive the initial insults.
i think the cars will survive the initial insults.
Hello! I've just purchased a brand new 2011 Lancer Ralliart and I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on the "break-in" period concept? I've Google searched and read previous posts on this forum, but the responses are scattered and often without facts/links to support them:
- Drive like a granny.
- Drive it hard.
- Do "something" for "x" miles, then "something else" for "y" miles, then change the oil at "z" miles.
- Accelerate/decelerate a lot.
- Don't go over 55 MPH.
- Don't stay at the same RPM for "x" amount of time.
- Read the manual, noob.
- Drive it like you "normally" would.
- Don't worry about it, factory breaks it in.
etc.
Any help in this area would be appreciated. Oddly, I have looked through the manual and couldn't find anything on a required "break-in" period. I'll look again after I post this in-case I've missed something, though.
EDIT: Completely missed it on page 3-2.
In addition, I've already floored it, made a round trip from Orange County to Inland Valley (no cruise control) and a round trip from Inland Valley to Mt. Baldy. The ODO is still well under 300 miles. By doing this have I damaged the vehicle or caused any long-term performance loss?
EDIT: The manual both makes this seem like no problem and bad at the same time (derp). Can't really do anything about what's already been done, I just hope it I haven't caused too much damage. Will exercise restraint from this point on! I wish the dealer had explained the break-in period
Also, what is the minimum octane rating required for Ralliarts? I used 91 with the gas ticket from the dealer but if I can go lower to save the extra 10c/gallon that would be great.
EDIT: 93 octane recommend by the manual. To clarify, I wasn't looking for the "cheap" option. I knew full well what I was buying with this car. I just wasn't sure on what classified "premium" fuel (I've only ever pressed the 87 button :P). It didn't help that the station that the gas ticket was for didn't have premium (odd considering South Coast Mitsubishi sells a ton of Evo's).
Thanks in advanced! Bonus points to anyone who uses proper punctuation and doesn't spell like a 13 year old girl texting someone.
- Drive like a granny.
- Drive it hard.
- Do "something" for "x" miles, then "something else" for "y" miles, then change the oil at "z" miles.
- Accelerate/decelerate a lot.
- Don't go over 55 MPH.
- Don't stay at the same RPM for "x" amount of time.
- Read the manual, noob.
- Drive it like you "normally" would.
- Don't worry about it, factory breaks it in.
etc.
Any help in this area would be appreciated. Oddly, I have looked through the manual and couldn't find anything on a required "break-in" period. I'll look again after I post this in-case I've missed something, though.
EDIT: Completely missed it on page 3-2.
In addition, I've already floored it, made a round trip from Orange County to Inland Valley (no cruise control) and a round trip from Inland Valley to Mt. Baldy. The ODO is still well under 300 miles. By doing this have I damaged the vehicle or caused any long-term performance loss?
EDIT: The manual both makes this seem like no problem and bad at the same time (derp). Can't really do anything about what's already been done, I just hope it I haven't caused too much damage. Will exercise restraint from this point on! I wish the dealer had explained the break-in period
Also, what is the minimum octane rating required for Ralliarts? I used 91 with the gas ticket from the dealer but if I can go lower to save the extra 10c/gallon that would be great.
EDIT: 93 octane recommend by the manual. To clarify, I wasn't looking for the "cheap" option. I knew full well what I was buying with this car. I just wasn't sure on what classified "premium" fuel (I've only ever pressed the 87 button :P). It didn't help that the station that the gas ticket was for didn't have premium (odd considering South Coast Mitsubishi sells a ton of Evo's).
Thanks in advanced! Bonus points to anyone who uses proper punctuation and doesn't spell like a 13 year old girl texting someone.
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