Monthly Payments Question
#31
Went to dealership today. It sucks to be honest. 1. They did not say anything about how much for my Fully loaded Gts as a trade-in. 2. I can't roll over my negative equity to another new loan. 3. They talk behind your back. But...I negotiated with them 450 a month for a base ralliart. Rep said "we can do that" Good deal or not? Don't know about my negative equity though.
i traded in my 2010 gts 15k miles for 15500, and got a 2011 ralliart for 26000.
#32
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1st: Google "How to purchase a car"
2nd: Buying a car starts off with knowing what the MSRP is, the Invoice and then look on edmunds or another car buying guide site to see what the average consumer is paying for the car. Anything at invoice price or lower is what you are trying to achieve.
3rd: Look up the dealerships monthly incentives and find out which ones apply to you.
4th: You have a trade in, so now you have to do the research to see what dealerships are selling your car for, used and with all the exact specs. Then check out something like Kellys Blue Book to see what that says as far as trade in value.
5th: Now you have to find out what your state and local city taxes are and laws because that will factor in next.
6th: Find out what the dealers document fee's are and the dealer handling fee is. You will have to add that in as well.
7th: Find out what your current credit score is. That will tell you how bad they will screw you on monthly payments. ****y credit means your desperate and you really want the car so they will screw with the numbers to show you how "GOOD" of a deal you are getting.
- You see how complicated all of this gets really fast. Asking everyone else what they are paying will not benefit you in anyway shape or form. All it will do is make yourself feel bad for not getting a "Good" deal that someone else got after you buy the car. Unless you find someone who lives in the same area you do, with the same credit score, same job, same debt issues as you have, already bought the car you want, at the same dealership and from the same salesman, than you can try to get there "GOOD" deal. Other than that, your on your own big man.
- Last thing, I got the 2010 Ralliart Sportback with Recaro Package for $28,600, with 3.9 Apr, payments at 425 a month. MSRP was at $31,100. Due the research online. This should be the last post in this thread. I covered everything you could possibly cover for buying a car. This should be changed to, "How to purchase a car" No copy write fellas haha!
2nd: Buying a car starts off with knowing what the MSRP is, the Invoice and then look on edmunds or another car buying guide site to see what the average consumer is paying for the car. Anything at invoice price or lower is what you are trying to achieve.
3rd: Look up the dealerships monthly incentives and find out which ones apply to you.
4th: You have a trade in, so now you have to do the research to see what dealerships are selling your car for, used and with all the exact specs. Then check out something like Kellys Blue Book to see what that says as far as trade in value.
5th: Now you have to find out what your state and local city taxes are and laws because that will factor in next.
6th: Find out what the dealers document fee's are and the dealer handling fee is. You will have to add that in as well.
7th: Find out what your current credit score is. That will tell you how bad they will screw you on monthly payments. ****y credit means your desperate and you really want the car so they will screw with the numbers to show you how "GOOD" of a deal you are getting.
- You see how complicated all of this gets really fast. Asking everyone else what they are paying will not benefit you in anyway shape or form. All it will do is make yourself feel bad for not getting a "Good" deal that someone else got after you buy the car. Unless you find someone who lives in the same area you do, with the same credit score, same job, same debt issues as you have, already bought the car you want, at the same dealership and from the same salesman, than you can try to get there "GOOD" deal. Other than that, your on your own big man.
- Last thing, I got the 2010 Ralliart Sportback with Recaro Package for $28,600, with 3.9 Apr, payments at 425 a month. MSRP was at $31,100. Due the research online. This should be the last post in this thread. I covered everything you could possibly cover for buying a car. This should be changed to, "How to purchase a car" No copy write fellas haha!
Last edited by EBL08; Feb 11, 2011 at 11:41 PM.
#33
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just to put it out there, there's nothing wrong with negotiating a monthly if you are including the term in your negotiation and you know what your ideal otd cost would equate to on a monthly payment basis.
the key is to figure out what price you want to pay for the car and then do the math to see what you'd be paying /mo with your ideal term and interest rate and then you can do it that way. just make sure you dont fudge up your numbers and get things mixed up and you can negotiate with whichever number you like. if you know all of your numbers ahead of time you can do the number flipping game yourself and once they realize you know wtf you're doing, they'll start getting serious.
the key is to figure out what price you want to pay for the car and then do the math to see what you'd be paying /mo with your ideal term and interest rate and then you can do it that way. just make sure you dont fudge up your numbers and get things mixed up and you can negotiate with whichever number you like. if you know all of your numbers ahead of time you can do the number flipping game yourself and once they realize you know wtf you're doing, they'll start getting serious.
#35
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All right. I can't decide whether i should get the Ralliart or not. My Gts has all the amenities Gps, folding mirrors, and Rockford Fosgate, makes me think twice before getting the darn ralliart. Guess sacrificing comfort for sport is a curse. hahaha.
#36
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I was in the same situation. Fully loaded 09 GTS w/ CVT. Problem is you get the mod bug and want to go fast because in reality, our cars do not look like they are meant to go slow. Now based on that statement, the GTS is fast enough to some people but I wanted more speed and the transmission in the GTS is still limited unless you go manual. For what it's worth it really is about comfort vs speed. I'm glad I upgraded to the 2011 RA because of the aftermarket performance base in comparison to the GTS and I didn't want to slap too many go fast parts on the CVT tranny. It's still a comfortable and fun car just had no real use for the navi system or sunroof in my GTS, but that's my opinion.
#38
I test drove the GTS after test driving the Ralliart and the GTS felt like a turtle towing a vehicle behind him... Even in stock form it really is no contest of how "fast it feels"
Also CVT felt so dull compared to the SST. You don't feel any shifts from the CVT...
Anyways it looks like I was ripped off by my dealer from the looks of what other people got... My credit score was 700
Base price of 25.5k with 2k down payment which comes to 23.5k out the door
6 years with 9% interest comes to 466/month...
Also CVT felt so dull compared to the SST. You don't feel any shifts from the CVT...
Anyways it looks like I was ripped off by my dealer from the looks of what other people got... My credit score was 700
Base price of 25.5k with 2k down payment which comes to 23.5k out the door
6 years with 9% interest comes to 466/month...
#39
Evolving Member
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Go refinance that somewhere. 9% interest with that kind of credit score is redonkulous. Credit unions are great about low interest loans. And clarify what the "final" price was because you should only be paying $423/month at $23.5k, or $459/month at $25.5k price.
At $25.5k financed for 6yrs @ 9% will total $7.5k interest paid on the loan.
At $25.5k financed for 6yrs @ 5% (reasonable if you shop for loans with that credit score) will total $4k interest paid on the loan.
This is just my take on it though. I'd rather low interest rate over rebates any day too if that becomes an option to the OP. How's that JG Wentworth commercial go? "It's my money and I need it now!"
#40
Honestly dude you need a calculator. Numbers dont lie. First you got trade in value. Ur payoff hopefully you dont owe more than the cars worth because than that negative equity gets tacked on ur new car note. Are you putting money down? How good is your credit depends on apr. I paid $250 a month for my rally. Now I got an x which I pay $356 a month. Everyone is in a different situation financially.
#41
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Thank you for all the inputs about my thread. I got the car yesterday, took me a while negotiating the price with the sharks. Here is the run about on the numbers MSRP is 31,100 and i got it down to 28,000(I saved 3100). All and all I am happy with it.
Edit:
1 Year Free Oil Change is also part of the deal.
Edit:
1 Year Free Oil Change is also part of the deal.
Last edited by Defcon5Es; Feb 17, 2011 at 05:31 PM.
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