Krisko

iTrader: (3)

For those of you that have read my Cobb Tuning topic, I recently did a complete turbo swap with these being the mods:
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Evo x stock turbo, manifold, fmic, licp
Cobb intake, inlet pipe, BPV
Nesei uicp
H.O.A. 3-port Solenoid Boost Controller
Odyssey Small battery 15lbs (cobb gives you a battery kit with your swap so you don't need to buy one)
Ultimate Racing downpipe, high flow cat, dual exhaust, midpipe
DW 850cc injectors
Walbro 255 kit and UR conversion kit

Suspension

Swift Sport springs
Gsr rims
Advans 245/40/18
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Now I'm looking to start a project before winter hits and making this my sleeper drag car. As well all know, Ralliarts are highly underestimated due to many reviews putting other cars above it based of weight differentials and stock for stock power. Therefore, I find this to be a perfect sleeper project car (there are others, but I just like this car way too much). So I'm looking to get some ideas and opinions of what needs to be upgraded, some links to these items and what I need to be careful for. Again, this will not be my DD anymore, more like a weekend car that I take to the drag strip. The turbo I would be running would be a minimum of an FP Black so:

I would like to know -

Good AWD drag/street legal tires that would fit on a 17inch and a good width

Lightweight rims that are atleast 15-17 lbs or close to it, again, 17 inches

Changes to the motor to handle what a FP Black or GT35R type turbos could produce, ofcourse, within the ranges of what the lame SST tranny can manage

Recommended tire size and wheel width

Good options for what to ceramic coat

FMIC size

A good turbo inlet or CAI for bigger turbo applications

Anything else


Basically I'm looking for the whole nine on this. Its obvious the Evo 9's put down crazy times, but I'm just looking to make the most out of this one and see what a Ralliart can truly do if it had the right build. All I see are Evo X builds, but when I see a Ralliart on a stock Evo X turbo running in the 11s category where an MR does the same but on a bigger turbo, it makes want to see just how far this car can really go. It's either that or I save up and get a GTR

Bottom line, I got the car for less that $25k new, it has about 13k miles on it now, and I assume the cost of this build should run me close to $10k-15k which includes the motor build, tranny clutches and oil, all proper upgrades + labor

JDMCT9MR

iTrader: (56)

Sounds like your on the right track. Curious to see your numbers!

Jdunn502

iTrader: (1)

You said your running 11s already? How much HP are you putting out now?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Drag radials are always your best bet, but not exactly sleeper and suck in the rain if you are going to DD the car at all. I've managed a 1.69 60' on my Hankook V12's and have done a couple autox sessions in the rain on the same tires with great results.

For the price, you can't beat Enkei RPF1. 15.5lb for a 17x8.5. If you go forged you can get a much lighter wheel at a much higher price point. The other option that most people overlook is Motegi's forged Traklite wheels. For about 300 a piece they are one of the most affordable forged wheels, but at only 14.6 lbs, is it worth paying double the price of the Enkeis to lose only 1lb per wheel?

Not so much a power handling mod, but for power "optimization", definitely do cams. Again, not much of a sleeper when the car is chugging though.

This is all personal preference. The smaller you go, the less it'll weigh obviously, but a lot of narrow wheels have crappy offsets too. Just use this: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...s-fitment.html and do what feels right.

I have CBRD's "velocity stack" intake design and feel that it has greatly helped to maximize an already improved car's performance. The AMS intake seems to be the only other unit out there making noticeable gains possible on the Ralliart. Few people really go big-turbo on the RA though, so I don't know if anyone has even tried the Primo 3.5" on this platform yet?

NFSLancerRA

iTrader: (8)

If I were going to do this, I would look into a new crankshaft. I would also ditch that fuel-pump kit and buy the Buschur double-pump. Other than maybe new rods, rod pins, headstuds, and a few other things, you should be fine. You may not even need that.

I am not sure whether or not an FP-Black will need a COP setup at some point. It might.

Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Good information guys and thanks alot! Again if you have links that would seriously help because other than your basic usual turbo swap items im not too educated as to what the above and beyond mods would consist of or highly recommeneded ones. Keep in mind the 4b11t is said to handle 400whp/wtq reasonably so an engine upgrade and cams is ideal, I just don't know exactly what are good recommended engine upgrades, however, as far as cams go I will most likely go AMS. To reply to your many ideas I will reply as a mass response:

I would like more info on the cbrd velocity stack

Do you have a link to the forged wheels? Rpf-1s have always seemed ideal for the most case but I would love to research the forged options available

The 600hp ssp clutches is said to hold 460wtq reasonably, therefore the turbo should be strong enough to push this as well as just below 600whp and a motor build strong enough to handle it.

My current power at cobb was dynoed at 375/403 on a Mustang but on low reading Mustang that may come out to be 345/360. I've ran many low 12s with 12.2 best on stock gsr tires but these tires chirp hard when I launch at 5k and shift to 2nd. What I was stating was there are many other Ralliarts hitting high 11s on a stock evo x turbo.

Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Actually the rpf-1s seem ideal at that weight so ill go that route. Again this will not be my daily driver anymore. Ill probly get an eclipse again or a v6 stang or camaro, maybe even a honda so I can see the vtec light on the dashboard come on once it kicks in.

@ chi-town im trying avoid any setup that was made for the stock RA turbo since all its applications were made to support it only along with the stock battery being in place. Not sure if that was your aim in your post but I just wanted to make sure. I did roll my fenders for the stock gsr wheels and I wasn't sure if I should go wider rims if im aiming for a much higher goal then what im at now. Also what would be an ideal low weight tire size for an rpf-1 at 17inches with my goal in mind? Again, its not a dd but I will most likely need somewhat street legal tires to drive it to and from the dragstrip

bronto11588

for pricing on certain items check out my build list let me know what your interested in and i can get you the prices for them. the only thing different from our builds or your going for the big tubo now and im just biding my time for another DD lol

also if you have it around you i would suggest E85 if you havent already

Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Yeah im running E85 daily. Such a lovely fuel indeed.

Im also looking to run everything safe and reduce as much heat as possible so I would also like to know what is ideal to ceramic coat and wrap or both.

Exyia

iTrader: (6)

i'm so jealous of you krisko, you're like a step ahead of me since I'm still waiting on this battery bracket!

only input I can think to add right now is, don't forget weight. We're already a good amount lighter than the Evo X (150lb? can't remember, too lazy to check). don't throw away our advantage by weighing it down - use it and try to reduce some weight even more. how far you go with that (keeping interior, back seats, etc) is up to you.

I don't really see a need to go wider than 8.5 or 9 width wheel and 245 tires. anything wider is just asking to tear apart the fenders with stupidly aggresive pulling imo

and coilovers would help to. even if you're focusing mainly on the drag strip, reducing the body roll when accelerating helps. and coilovers aren't that expensive, especially compared to the other stuff you have planned

Krisko

iTrader: (3)

Made some calls to a few companies. I guess im looking for serious power, yet a good long life expectancy. I may use this as a weekend car mainly that I take to the strip, so I will have two sets of tires like some kdw's and some drags.

It was kind of discouraging to hear what alot of threads and companies said about non stock appearing turbos. Im not in a rush to get a new turbo every few months to a year so it seems the fp black is ideal with a 2.1L or 2.2L motor and 600hp clutches. Id be more than satisfied with hitting 10s, but im not sure what other gsr and mr hit on an fp black.

Does anyone

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

I'd get rid of the UR inline fuel filter if you are running E85, unless they changed their filter to a higher quality one.

If you don't want a lumpy idle to keep it sleeper, the Kelford B cams are barely noticable from stock.

If you are really serious about drag racing the car, I would look into getting a MR TCU as it will give you launch control, which will help with launching and you will also get S-Sport which increases the clutch pressure, which you will need with more power.

sstevojr

iTrader: (7)

Is the TCU built into the tranny, or is something that can be swapped out without the removal of the SST itself?

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

It's the front part of the trans and is swappable.

Eventually I imagine we will just be able to reflash it for a MR rom as the physical part numbers are the same between the RA/MR/SE. This will obviously be loads cheaper/easier to do.

MTZL

Thanks for the info, MR TCU in RA SST. hmmm... S-Sport mode.