roversix

The dealership ECU flash would only be bad if your car had the Aftermarket boost pill... Your car would act bananas if you didn't have the stock boost pill but had the factory ECU tune.

ArtofRalli

They said no reflash was done,

richardjh

You know v27 is out now, eh...

Rich

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

You beat me to it, Rich. I was just about to say, op, for S&G, why not try out 2.7 and see what happens

ArtofRalli

Haha, I'm ahead of you already. The tranny fluid change was a little while ago. I




As for this tranny problem I have an appointment Thursday. I will keep the thread updated.

ArtofRalli

EDIT UPDATE: The car was at the dealers yesterday. We eliminated the posiblity of the vibrations coming from the rim or tires. They replaced all 4 of my tires/rims with another set from a new ralliart. Problem still there.

The tech has checked the brakes, tire rodes, tires/ rims, ive had the alignment done and engine mounts.

Could it be the drive train by chance? I will be speaking with the tech at mitsu monday. He talked to a rep tech from mitsu canada. He will let me know then what they had to say.

Any input as to what this could be would be great. I could let the tech know what to look for further.

sstevojr

iTrader: (7)

Go into detail on your driving habits over the last 6 months.
Is this a DD, or a weekend car?
Do you warm up your car or turn it on and leave?
Do you leave it in Auto 95% or drive in Manual?
Do you use Normal for the perceived smoother shifting (until recently obviously), or do you drive in Sport for the crisp/firm shifting characteristics?
Etc, etc, ect

ArtofRalli

This car is my DD. I drive in both manual sport and auto normal. i drive sport manual most of the time.

I always let the car warm up for about 3-4 mins prior to leaving the driveway. I have taken very good care of the car. For example i always come to a complete stop before switching into R or D. I also hammer it from time to time. Like any normal Ralliart owner! lol

I had the vehicle in yesterday for the whole day.
1. They checked the balance of the drive shaft = Good
2. The service manager is involved now and took it out for a test drive with the mechanic and now knows exactly what im talking about in regards to the vibrations. btw are getting worse.
3. He decided to check the tranny level. They emptied the tranny to re-measure the amount of fluid thats in there. They found that it was about 500ml (half a litre) short. or so they say thats how much. They topped it up and took it for another test drive.....problem still there.
4.So the service manager firmly believes its the internals of the tranny. The next step is for the dealer to here back from the "support tech line" to see what the next appropriate step is.

I should here back by monday and will update.

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

this word ... "shutters" ... i do not think it means what you seem to think

ArtofRalli

Well then lets use "bad vibrations" or "major vibrations" regardless its there.

I tryed something on the highway last night. Several times I would go to 140 to 160 km and let the car deaccelerate on its own while in D. the bad vibrations were present and very noticeable. So I decided to do the exact same thing but put the car into N. Absolutely no vibrations. Smooth as a babies bottom.

richardjh

Hmm.

Over in the GST Base Map thread, we've been nutting out some SST enhancements recently. One thing we discovered was a shudder going into 6th at low rpm that occurred with 2009/2010 style SST "throttle-related" maps, but did NOT occur when we tried versions based on the 2011 ROMs.

Mitsu changed these tables from 2010 to 2011. Reducing NVH (noise/vibration/harshness) could well be one of the reasons behind that change.

I definitely haven't seen any "dealer reflash" updates to 2009 or 2010 ROMs that have the relevant changes.


So if all else fails, keep an eye out for a new version of the Base Maps that will contain the new work (it's currently on v27, so just look out for a bigger number ). Perhaps it will be a magic bullet for your vibration.

However, if it's mechanical, no amount of ROM-waving will fix it!

Rich

sstevojr

iTrader: (7)

I believe nunyas was saying:

vaqusis

iTrader: (1)

My car has the same issues and I've spent a lot of time working on the throttle tables. The harshness that I experience didn't start to happen until my local dealership did injector cleaning. According to the logs when I let go of my throttle and it drops to between 2500 and 2000 the Injector Duty Cycle drops to 0. Makes me wonder if it's a problem with the engine performing basically like a jake brake.

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

Engine braking alone isn't going to cause the car to shudder. There has to be other things wrong with the car for engine braking to cause the chassis to shudder. These things can range from worn suspension bushings, to worn engine mounts, to worn transmission mounts... Basically to much slop in anything in the drive train between the tires on the road to the engine's attachment to the car's chassis will likely be the source of the issue.

vaqusis

iTrader: (1)

When I took the car into the dealership it ran great, coming out after the cleaning it shutter's. They did a 30K checkup and cleaned the Injector's. Nothing else. I've swapped tired, rims and checked all of the mounts. The only thing that I can think of now is that maybe they hurt the injectors when they cleaned them. I'm going to pick up a new set later this week and hopefully it will be an improvement. It's not a suspension shutter, i've dealt with those. This is dead center, engine to transmission and it's only when you let go of the gas and coast in 5th or 6th from 2500 - 2000 RPM. Clean on acceleration.