AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

Sooooo im currently staring at 2 headlights(projectors), 2 Morimoto 55w ballasts, 2 55w 4300k Morimoto bulbs, and a pile of wires(Jrox's DRL bypass cables and some additional wires that came with the ballasts.)

Any clue on how or what i am supposed to do to install these? i have not a clue on where these wires are supposed to go, im terrible with wiring and electronics. My current headlights are the oem SSS pair that come with the 35w ballasts/bulbs.

Anybody able to give me a how to on doing this? or atleast a little guidance?

and chi-town if i had put this down in electronics nobody would have ever helped me, because face it, it only has 2 threads down there as is, nobody looks in that crap.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Haha, no worries. Are you trying to simply upgrade your bulbs/ballasts to the 55w stuff and keep your stock housing/lenses?

nunyas

iTrader: (2)

If you have OEM HID Projectors, then the DRL by-pass stuff is unnecessary, because you only need to remove the DRL relay from the under-hood fuse box to disable them...

quickflips

iTrader: (1)

the front bumper will have to come off as the stock ballasts are mounted on the bottom of the headlights. so did your car come with the sss headlights? because if it did then you don't need the jrox bypass. all you really need to do is connect the ground, the power on the bypass, and then plug in the ballasts and the bulbs to the bypass.

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

the bumper is already off, the headlights are already removed, the ballasts have already been removed. My vehicle did not come with the SSS headlights therefore i cannot remove something i do not have.(or do i have this fuse? i dont even know, and would that solve the problem of my lights flickering if they are not on?)

yes chi, my passenger side ballast blew out, and i decided to go to 55w and get the jrox harness so my headlights were not on all the time.

i think i "might" have figured it out, however on the jrox harness there is a female 9006 cable that i dont have a clue where it goes.

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

******************/index.php?app=downloads&module=display&section=dow nload&do=confirm_download&id=13

was able to locate jrox's harness installation directions, every time i clicked on them before it gave me some kind of error, this makes it a little easier.

replace the ****** with projectlancer"dot"net

these forums dont like links to others.

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

if you look at the pictures, i have not a clue where the female 9006 plug is supposed to go, i cannot locate any other plugin for it to go into.





and i found out my problem........god im dumb, after reading the description on Jrox's harness its only for non sss headlights that are converted to HID. I cant find the 9006 plugin because i dont have one....derp

now my next question is, if i cut the plug that supplies power to my old 35w ballast, will it supply enough power to the 55w ballasts? does the line providing power just provide power and the ballast regulates the amount it needs? do i need a bigger fuse now too?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

The wattage rating on the ballast is a measurement of output. Input from the battery will be the same 12v, with a slightly higher current draw for the increased output. You may need a larger fuse, but I would expect only by 5-10a at most, if at all.

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

ok so i installed the new ballasts and bulbs, and my lights turn on and run just fine. I however am a bit confused as to why i no longer have flickering like i did before when i had the lights on the first switch(lights off,DRL's on) or second(parking lights on,DRL's on). Now my lights are off at all times unless i have it on the 3rd switch(lights on all the way).

I guess i dont have anything to complain about as i finally have rid myself of the flickering issue and i can finally turn my lights off, however i dont want to cause damage to the bulbs/ballasts if they are not getting enough power to turn on from the DRL's like before. I just feel like it could be some kinda hidden issue that i cant see and i will be out another couple hundred from a underlying problem like that.

If anyone can correct me or give some advice it would be much appreciated.


EDIT: i did not use the Jrox harness as my car does not have the correct plugs for its DRL. Jrox is for halogens retrofitted with projectors only.

unionjack

The fix for DRL problems with HID's is here:
http://club4g.org/board/vendor-forum...-problems.html

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

No worries - if the lights turn on - they have enough current and voltage.

Looks like you're done!

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

i would like to think so, i just want to make sure that when i turn off my lights to run the DRL's that my HID's wont flicker(which they arent, and thats whats scaring me, why arent they flickering like before? i dont know why i dont have the flickering)

also i noticed that my driver side light is bright white, however my passenger side light is like a yellowish white hue. they are both 4300k 55w Morimotos, any thoughts on this?

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

The low voltage of the DRL signal may not be enough to ignite the higher-output ballasts, hence the lack of flickering.

As far as the coloration, that usually occurs when a ballast or bulb is starting to weaken. Are these new parts?

AntiBlitz

iTrader: (6)

brand new parts, i ordered them from theretrofitoutsource.com

and yes thats what i was thinking too Chi, not enough power to light them, but possibly enough to damage the ballast.

Veronica

iTrader: (2)

Swap bulbs left to right and then ballasts left to right to see if the problem moves...

I am betting on the bulb.

The ballast fires a very high voltage discharge all at once (so the gas can become conductive) and then the ballast is just 'recharging' (like when your alt recharges your battery after you start and also runs all the accys) and also providing a lower minimum voltage feed to 'maintain' the glow... If the feed is lower than the minimum the gas in the bulb will simply cease to be conductive and it goes completely dark.

So - if your bulbs fire off and then stay on (no flicker) the ballast is doing its job. If the bulb is not bright - then the gas is either too low, leaking, or the wrong gas mixture.