I looked at a relative's 2009 ralliart and noticed the outside shoulder of the tires are wearing out faster than any other part of the tire. I inflated the tire pressure to 36psi cold all around and after a few months looked at the car one day and noticed the outsides are still wearing out the fastest. Tire pressure has been maintained near 36psi consistently.

Next thing that popped in my head was the car must have positive camber.

I've upgraded my alignment tools since I've doing my own alignments now and measured the camber using a digital camber/caster gauge. For the camber measurements are:

+0.1 degrees in the front
-1.0 degrees in the rear

Is it common for stock RAs to come with positive camber from the factory causing the outside section of the tire to wear out faster?

The toe measurements are zero in the front and the rear I can't recall off the top of my head maybe a tad toe-in on both sides. The car drives straight and so is the steering wheel. No unusually vibrations while driving at any speed. Wheel weights are still on where they should be.

Vehicle has about 15K miles and is completely stock including suspension, factory tires, and rims.

There isn't much info on the 2009+ RA in terms of suspension info so I'm assuming the front camber is adjustable like the evo8/9s i.e. flip the the Front strut top most eccentric camber bolt 180 degrees to adjust it.

I did a quick look through the rims at that bolt I didn't see any paint markings or arrows like I would normally see on an evo.

 

they are supposed to come with slight NEGATIVE camber from the factory. i'd tell your relative it's time to realign. they also come with a slight toe setting which is unnecessary and stupid, imo. have the car re-set to zero out toe front and rear (0.0* or as close as possible, not factory spec) and adjust the front camber to -1.0. the rear is pretty much stuck there without aftermarket adjusting bits. that'll make a world of difference, not to mention it'll corner better.

 

okay so how did you adjust your front camber?

I just got off the phone with a Mitsubishi suspension specialist shop and they confirmed my suspicions that 09+ RA come with little to zero camber in the front.

It's not an easy job like I'd imagine with stock evos you can't flip a bolt 180 degrees to get more negative camber.

So I would like to know how other RA owners over came this problem?

thanks

 

You have to buy camber bolts. Whiteline makes a set, as well as some other non-performance parts houses.

 

Yup you need camber bolts to get any camber adjustment out of the RA.

 

I got a set fitted. If it helps your enquiries, my invoice lists the part number as:

MC114/5.81260

A little Googling, and it appears to me that MC114 is a Monroe part number for camber bolt set, and 5.81260K is an Eibach part number... for a camber bolt set.

There's undoubtedly a Whiteline version too, as Bryan (razor) said.

From the looks of it, they are common as muck, so you shouldn't have any trouble finding a supplier/installer.

Mine cost me AU$80, plus AU$100 for fitting and full alignment.

Rich

 

yep. ingalls kit 81260. it says up to 2* adjustment, but thats if you use both bolts on one side. realistically you can just buy one box and use one for either side on the upper strut bolt if you are only looking for minimal adjustments. 23 bucks shipped on ebay. i like the one that comes in the actual factory packaging so you know (hopefully) you're not getting a cheap compromise: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INGAL...Q5fAccessories

 

Nvm.

 

thanks for the replies everyone so I'll try to see if the person wants to try out the idea of getting camber bolts

anyone know have a torque spec manual they would like to email or post up?

I'm looking just for the torque spec for that front strut bolt that I will replace with a camber bolt but might as well get all the torque specs for future references.

 

My 09 ralliart had a problem with inner tire wear, they were all the way to the wire at 20k miles. I put it up on the alignment rack at my school and all my camber adjustments except my right rear were off, my left rear which is non-adjustable was -2.5 deg, the spec is -0.5 deg... i dont remember what the front spec is but i can get you that and also i could probably get you the tq specs by tomorrow at school... Needless to say after buying 4 new tires i took it to the dealership over and over agin and they kept lying to me saying my alignment was good and after all that i found new bolts for my rear camber that they secretly replaced, they didnt want to tell me that my car had a defect because they would've had to buy my tires, oh well at least they fixed it.

 

^^^thanks that torque spec manual would help out

 

Knuckle and strut connection nut (81ft. Lbs + or - 8 ft. Lbs) if that is what you are needing if not let me know

 

Tyger,
What bolts are you referring to? I installed Coilovers, and at my alignment appt they showed me the rear camber is -1.9(D) and -2.5(P)
I need to find out how to get these back to 0.
Thanks for any help,
Steve

 

sounds like a set of lowering springs is actually beneficial to tire life...

 

Sstevojr, im not sure sure how to explain it but when I was looking around I realized that that there were 2 bolts that had recently been painted red to mark them one for the left and one for the right... Idk what the heck they did to fix it. I have been told that there are some ways to adjust the rear camber but I'm not sure how. I will look into it and get back to you.