Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
#47
The camber arms that Nicole had are $200 (plus shipping). They come with Energy Suspension bushings and an external grease fitting in order to lubricate them while on the car (installed). They are available in 2 versions (SLAMMED and 2-4 degrees). These have been tested on 11 and 12 second Ralliarts. They have also seen track time at Sebring and Palm Beach. These things work. If you want them, let me know. I will post a picture later.
I'm going to continue to work with Ron. I think he can bring a few more parts to the table and would like to open the doors for him to bring some stuff to the table for us.
I'm hoping to go the the tracks next friday to see what my car can do.
#51
i had spc camber arms on my old rsx. and its primarily what i sold when i used to work automotive retail. i'm pretty sold on SPC from past experience they build sturdy products. its worth my money and yes i bought them off summit, great experience from summit as well.
also, you want 67455 qty. 2
Last edited by i_drivecode3; Apr 19, 2013 at 05:07 AM.
#52
Waiting for Fuego's pictures...
It seem to be only a small price difference between the Realtune and Nicoles/Rahtid's version. I'd like to see the thread length difference also between Realtune and non slammed version of Nicole's/Rahtid's.
It seem to be only a small price difference between the Realtune and Nicoles/Rahtid's version. I'd like to see the thread length difference also between Realtune and non slammed version of Nicole's/Rahtid's.
#54
Ok, so I think I get the way the SPC ones work: Large slider groove for big adjustments, eccentric for fine adjusting.
But what about these threaded ones? Maybe I'm not seeing the pictures well enough, but is there just one moving section, so you have to unbolt from the control arm, adjust, re-install, measure again; or is it more like an inner tie rod with a floating central threaded section and a jam-nut on one side (or both, even)?
But what about these threaded ones? Maybe I'm not seeing the pictures well enough, but is there just one moving section, so you have to unbolt from the control arm, adjust, re-install, measure again; or is it more like an inner tie rod with a floating central threaded section and a jam-nut on one side (or both, even)?
#55
Ok, so I think I get the way the SPC ones work: Large slider groove for big adjustments, eccentric for fine adjusting.
But what about these threaded ones? Maybe I'm not seeing the pictures well enough, but is there just one moving section, so you have to unbolt from the control arm, adjust, re-install, measure again; or is it more like an inner tie rod with a floating central threaded section and a jam-nut on one side (or both, even)?
But what about these threaded ones? Maybe I'm not seeing the pictures well enough, but is there just one moving section, so you have to unbolt from the control arm, adjust, re-install, measure again; or is it more like an inner tie rod with a floating central threaded section and a jam-nut on one side (or both, even)?
I also ordered the Toe Links. It's on the way now too. i'm hoping to finish the suspension next week and alignment.
He is waiting on his batch of the rear brace and I will update everyone when I have more information.
Last edited by Fuego; Apr 20, 2013 at 04:29 PM.
#57
#58
Also, if you have to disconnect it from the wheel hub to adjust it, then whats the point of the lock nut? It's not going to magically loosen over time. The attachment points on the chassis and the hub will prevent the parts from turning/tightening/loosening.
#59
this makes me sad. but realistically, I guess it's ok, because how often are you going to be mucking about with the rear camber? most of the time it'll be set it and forget it. It just makes it less convenient to adjust.
Also, if you have to disconnect it from the wheel hub to adjust it, then whats the point of the lock nut? It's not going to magically loosen over time. The attachment points on the chassis and the hub will prevent the parts from turning/tightening/loosening.
Also, if you have to disconnect it from the wheel hub to adjust it, then whats the point of the lock nut? It's not going to magically loosen over time. The attachment points on the chassis and the hub will prevent the parts from turning/tightening/loosening.
#60
I'd like to see the same basic design, but adjustable without disconnecting either end. Like how tie rod ends can be adjusted without disconnecting them. That's the ~only~ thing I don't like about these, but realisticly, I don't think it'd stop me from buying them