Alignment question
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Alignment question
Hello all, I noticed my '10 RA starting to pull to the left slowly and over time. When I got new tires the car REALLY pulled to the left so I got an alignement. The 'before' print out showed all sorts of crazy numbers where it appears each wheel was pointing several degrees from where they should have been. Anyway, after the alignment the car still pulls left, although not as much as before. Is there a setting I can tell the alignment guy to use so this car will track straight? Everthing is where it should be according to the 'after' print out.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
#3
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Everything appears within spec as per the allignment machine print out. And the steering wheel is straight. It's the car that is pulling to the left. If I don't touch the wheel the car starts to turn left as does the wheel, I can pull the wheel to center and the car goes straight but if I let go then the car and wheel both turn.
#4
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
It might help to post print out sheet after alignment specs on here.
Where you driving on the new set of tires/wheels a while before the alignment?
1. The tires might be worn a certain way that it still pulls.
2. It could be they did not tighten bolts after alignment, might want to go back and tell them it still pulls.
Hopefully it's not a shady shop that "sets the toe and lets it go" ,then hands a bunk printout to customers (my friend told me his last employer did this).
Where you driving on the new set of tires/wheels a while before the alignment?
1. The tires might be worn a certain way that it still pulls.
2. It could be they did not tighten bolts after alignment, might want to go back and tell them it still pulls.
Hopefully it's not a shady shop that "sets the toe and lets it go" ,then hands a bunk printout to customers (my friend told me his last employer did this).
#6
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
It might help to post print out sheet after alignment specs on here.
Where you driving on the new set of tires/wheels a while before the alignment?
1. The tires might be worn a certain way that it still pulls.
2. It could be they did not tighten bolts after alignment, might want to go back and tell them it still pulls.
Hopefully it's not a shady shop that "sets the toe and lets it go" ,then hands a bunk printout to customers (my friend told me his last employer did this).
Where you driving on the new set of tires/wheels a while before the alignment?
1. The tires might be worn a certain way that it still pulls.
2. It could be they did not tighten bolts after alignment, might want to go back and tell them it still pulls.
Hopefully it's not a shady shop that "sets the toe and lets it go" ,then hands a bunk printout to customers (my friend told me his last employer did this).
I am going to go back and see if this can get fixed, just wanted to hear from the forum in case there's something specific I can ask them to do.
Thanks for your responses and here's the 'after' report:
Last edited by FASTER345; Jul 22, 2013 at 02:10 PM.
#7
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
I have the stock suspension, the guy said he set all four tires to 32psi...but I should check. So maybe I can fix the alignment myself by adding some more air on one side? Would that 'straighten me out'? Thanks or the input!
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#10
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Location: Sydney
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is this common on our cars? coz my car is doing the same thing. I changed the front tyres 6 months ago and left outer edge went bold, right inner edge went bold. Having alignments after alignments, car just doesn't feel right and going straight. Just had one recently and same as OP described, hold steering it goes straight, let go and everything goes left, I just thought it was because of the road tilting left (Australia) for water drainage is causing this.
#11
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
Here was my first alignment ever done on the car.
before (top) after (bottom)
If you look at the smaller #'s to the left and right of the bigger #'s those are the factory spec that they should be between.. your front caster and camber look like they are out of spec.
front camber factory spec between -0.50 to -0.70
front caster factory spec between 2.77 to 2.57
before (top) after (bottom)
If you look at the smaller #'s to the left and right of the bigger #'s those are the factory spec that they should be between.. your front caster and camber look like they are out of spec.
front camber factory spec between -0.50 to -0.70
front caster factory spec between 2.77 to 2.57
Last edited by neogeo64; Jul 24, 2013 at 10:46 PM.
#12
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
This may be a dumb question but how can my camber be so far off factory spec if there's no way to adjust it without buying aftermarket camber bolts? If I took this to the dealer and said look it's waaaay off spec would they replace a part for something since there's no adjustment possible without the currently non-present camber bolts? I want to take it back to the alignment place but I'd like to tell him to just get my camber the same on both sides so the car doesn't pull left...but from what I read here that's not possible without (third time I mention them I know) aftermarket camber bolts. Thanks guys for your help.
#13
Evolved Member
iTrader: (3)
There is camber adjustment, its just limited. The strut bolt holes are oval shaped to allow for minor camber adjustment.
If you lower the car past 1.5":
Aftermarket bolts give you another deg or 2 of adjustment.
If you get coilovers , the front set usually have adjustable top hats to give you even more camber.
For the rear you need adjustable upper arms or press in aftermarket bushings to correct the camber if lowered.
If you lower the car past 1.5":
Aftermarket bolts give you another deg or 2 of adjustment.
If you get coilovers , the front set usually have adjustable top hats to give you even more camber.
For the rear you need adjustable upper arms or press in aftermarket bushings to correct the camber if lowered.
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